Survivaltek

Ginkgo Biloba - Urban Edible Tree Nuts

Ken — Sat, 04 Sep 2010 11:00:12 +0000

Earlier this week I was walking down Main Street in town, and I noticed some fruit in a tree. It was a Ginkgo Biloba tree, also known as a Maidenhair Tree, which I recognized by the fan-shaped leaves. But I didn’t know if the fruit was edible, so my research began.

Ginkgo trees have an interesting history. Fossil remains show us that they grew when dinosaurs roamed the Earth. They were dubbed “living fossils” by Charles Darwin. Interestingly enough, a 3000-year-old Ginkgo Biloba tree has been reported recently in China. The Gingko now survives only in cultivation. Native to China, it was introduced into the New World in 1784 by William Hamilton in his garden near Philadelphia. Ginkgos are tolerant of difficult soils and air pollution which make them popular as an ornamental shade tree for city streets - hence, a unique urban edible food source.

The female Ginkgo bears fruit that is known for it’s obnoxious smell, resembling rancid butter when the pulp is deteriorating on the ground. The fleshy, yellow-brown fruit-like part of the seed is toxic, and with long-term repeated contact can cause dermatitis. Once it is removed, it reveals the nut which is protected by a brown, paper-thin skin, just like the peanut. Remove the paper-thin layer and the seed can be eaten raw (in small quantities), or (in larger quantities) it can be cooked by roasting over an open fire or boiled and used in soups or porridges. The heating process kills offending chemicals that render it safe and tasty.

So, now we know another food source that just might come in handy. Keep your eyes open next time you take a neighborhood stroll.

DIY Cooking Trivet

Ken — Sat, 28 Aug 2010 11:00:45 +0000

I grew up in the city, and we had common modern-day cooking conveniences. In addition, our house had a fireplace, which by today’s urban pollution laws, may now have wood burning restrictions. However, should an extended regional power outage take place, the fireplace hearth would become “cooking central”. Fireplaces in modern homes are mostly ornamental or architectural design elements, but if it is functional for burning wood or has a gas manifold, here’s an item that you could use for cooking with a pot or pan in the event of an emergency.

A trivet is used to hold a pot or pan over a fire or coals. Traditionally, these would be made out of cast iron or wrought iron. But in a pinch, you can use steel shelf brackets. The materials needed are: 3 brackets, 3 bolts and 3 nuts. By bolting the tip of the long arm of the bracket to the edge of the next bracket, then repeat the positions on the next 2 brackets, you create a triangular platform. This is surprisingly stable and can be placed wherever needed. Of course you can use a warming rack or oven rack placed on bricks as a grill, but a trivet can float a pot or pan independently for more control and uses less of a footprint inside the fireplace.

Smoldering Cattails

Ken — Sun, 22 Aug 2010 13:49:04 +0000

As a firecraft enthusiast, I’ve explored a number of ways to create fire. It’s always exciting to produce a coal or flame… sort of “something from nothing”. However, it isn’t always easy to achieve. You might have limited resources or inclement weather which can inhibit ignition. That’s why ages ago primitive man learned to “carry” fire from place to place, alleviating the need to regenerate fire each time it’s needed. They carried a live coal between destinations that could be coaxed into a flame at each new site. By igniting “punk” (dried decayed material) a coal could be kept alive for long periods. Punk material might include various forms of fungi, rotted wood, dry moss, cattail head or anything else you can find that would burn slowly in a low oxygen atmosphere. This material could be carried in a can, green foliage bundle or other non volatile semi-closed containers.

One of the most convenient ways to make a “slow Match” in my area is with cattail heads. By igniting the tip of the cattail head, it will slowly burn downwards for an hour or more. By carrying a few more heads, you can ignite each one successively as the previous one expires, thus sustaining a live coal. In transit, remember to monitor your bundle for slight smoke that is produced by the coal to assure that it has enough oxygen to stay alive.

Soda Straw Bobber - DIY Fishing Float

Ken — Sat, 14 Aug 2010 14:29:54 +0000

Have you ever gone fishing and forgot your bobber? I recently went fishing with a Czechoslovakian friend who told me that he used to fish using floats made from feather quills. I decided to explore that concept further and found that floats have been made from many air chambered items found in nature such as porcupine quills, swan feathers, and river cane, to mention a few. One rainy day, I stopped by the Post Office and upon exiting the car, I noticed a straw lying on the ground, and it struck me that it could be made to float as well. The following are the instructions on how to do the same.

Clip the tip of the straw at a slight angle, and then cut a 1/16th inch strip, which by virtue of the elongated shape, is larger than the straw’s diameter, and will slide onto the straw to use for fastening the fishing line. I took my Leatherman needle-nose pliers in one hand and clamped the end of the straw about 1/16th of an inch from the end, and with the other hand, I used a lighter to melt the end, thus sealing it. I repeated the process on the other end.

I took the fishing line and pinched it into a tiny loop at the place where I wanted to attach it to the bobber. By sliding the ring on the straw to the end, you can create a small gap through which to thread the fishing line loop, starting from the center portion of the straw and threading it out to the end. Once the line is passed under the ring, slide the ring towards the middle of the straw, thus exposing the fishing line loop which you pull over the end of the straw, then continue to pull it down to the other end and over, pulling it tight, thus creating a hitch on the straw. Now slide the ring within an inch from the end to provide the best results from the bobber. Once you bait your hook, you’re ready to cast out! It works great! You can view the entire assembly on my video posted on YouTube. Click HERE to watch.

Coal Roasted Egg

Ken — Sat, 07 Aug 2010 11:00:37 +0000

One of the fun things about a campfire is the experiments that you can explore while you sit around it. I’ve witnessed some pyro-type activities on different occasions, but my interest in firecraft leans more toward practical uses such as heating, signaling and cooking. At one of my day-long exhibitions, I had cooked a hoe-cake on a trowel, and then, having run out of rice which I normally cook in a bamboo segment, I poached an egg in water instead. Then I wondered… if I had no vessel to cook with, how could I cook an egg? Although eggs are normally cooked by frying or boiling, I wondered if they could be roasted as well.

Remembering an explosive cooking incident in my microwave, I knew that pressure would build up inside when heated so I punctured a few holes in the shell and then set the egg on top of ash covered coals. I occasionally turned the egg during the roasting process to evenly cook the innards. The photo shows the results… perfecto! Can you imagine roasting an ostrich egg?

Light Sticks For Signaling

Ken — Sat, 31 Jul 2010 11:00:23 +0000

By now, just about everyone has seen a luminescent chemical stick in some form. At night-time events you may see sticks of different sizes, bracelets, necklaces and more. They are called many different things, often by brand names such as Cyalume, Snaplight, GlowSticks, etc., but the standard 6″ industrial grade stick is what we’re interested in for signaling. They come in different colors and increments of light duration time, typically 12 & 8 hours (general use), and 30 & 5 minutes (emergency signal). The shorter the duration, the brighter the light. The 30 and 5 minute light sticks can be plainly visible from a distance of 1 mile. They are a single-use light that is totally encapsulated, making it completely waterproof and totally safe in explosive gas environments. They need no batteries or power, and have no flames or heat. They come packaged in air-tight foil packages which gives them a potential shelf-life of 4 years. Once the package is opened, it has a lifespan of only a few days. The flexible plastic tube stick contains 2 chemicals inside, one being separated from the other by a glass vial. When you bend the stick, the glass vial safely breaks inside, thus exposing the 2 chemicals together, whereupon shaking the stick activates the chemical reaction which releases light. Most sticks have a built-in hanger at one end and come with an attachable lanyard. Essentially, when holding the stick, making large motions are the most effective, and by attaching the lanyard and swinging the light stick in a large circle, you will produce the most visible display for attracting attention. I carry light sticks in my vehicles and in my BOB (Bug-Out-Bag). Other locations for storage might include your circuit-breaker box, emergency preparedness box, or with your camping gear.

Hearthboard Variations

Ken — Sat, 24 Jul 2010 20:05:15 +0000

Friction Fire Methods of Bow-and-Spindle and Hand-Drill involve using a spindle on a hearthboard to generate heat and char in order to create an ember. The most successful material for this purpose is a non-resinous soft light wood that produces a slightly fibrous coffee-colored powder known as char. I prefer to make the spindle and hearthboard from the same piece of wood as this produces the best friction and does not wear out unevenly. The spindle should be straight with a rounded blunt end for the friction head, and the other end should have a longer taper so that it will be sharper, enabling it to spin easily in the socket or bearing block. The point of this writing is to describe the design elements found in the hearthboard as it is the foundation of this fire making method.

The hearthboard usually includes a slight pit or depression that keeps the head of the spindle stable and centered while being turned. In addition, there is almost always a notch included that serves two functions: one, to collect the char produced by the rapidly turning spindle, enabling it to collect heat as it grows with each subsequent turn, and two, it allows air to access the hot char, thus providing the heat-fuel-air trio needed to create a live coal once proper temperature is reached and sustained. Each of the following hearthboard types includes these two vital elements.

Standard Pit and Notch

This classic hearthboard is most commonly used. It is constructed with either modern tools or other field expedient sharp implements. The pit is created by carving a slight depression, then the spindle is placed over it and spun in place in order to “burn-in” a smooth pit. Then, the notch is cut into the center of the pit and can be “V” or “U” shaped. This allows the char from the pit to spill into the notch as it is created. A green leaf is often placed under the notch before beginning this process in order to transfer the new coal to awaiting tinder.

Pit and Trough

The trough can be fashioned by cutting a deep grove in a board, or, it may be found naturally by virtue of a linear crack in a branch or log, or, some woods have linear lobed spines that naturally create a trough. A perpendicular cut can be used as a pit to stabilize the spindle head. As the char forms, the trough acts as a notch. This method can be used with larger pieces of wood stock.

Twin Stick

If you cannot find suitable wood large enough for a pit based hearthboard, you can join two smaller sticks together with cordage or sinew. cutting a perpendicular groove will help hold the spindle in place, or sometimes you can just rest it next to the binding material and it will tend to keep it in place while the spindle turns. The space between the sticks creates a trough and acts as a notch. This method allows smaller wood stock to be used.

Consecutive Pits

The first pit will become a char collection point when a second pit is started adjacent to it. As the second pit enlarges, it will break through to the first pit, acting as a notch. You can make consecutive pits along a line to continue the notching process with each fire making effort. You can control the pit positioning by leaning the spindle as needed while you spin it.

These are just 4 examples of hearthboards that can be made, but a creative mind might find other ways as well. The important thing is that you know the fundamental elements in hearthboard design so that you can be prepared for implementing a variety of wood materials. Each one has it’s advantages. Take time now to experiment with each design and learn the nuances of each method, because ultimately, it leads to fire!

Miles for Dinner - Engine cooking

Ken — Sat, 17 Jul 2010 11:00:24 +0000

I’ve met a few folks lately who have shared their experience using a unique cooking method from decades ago… cooking food on a car’s engine. This concept has always intrigued me, and I knew that I had to try it. I began to study this method and apparently it is seeing a resurgence in interest. It seems that aluminum foil is the container of choice, although tin cans work too, but vented and usually surrounded by foil to inhibit taking on any engine taste and to prevent spills. It’s best to plan ahead and scope out your engine compartment for available places to put your food bundle while it’s cool and not running. Items should not be placed where it would interfere with moving parts. It may require “wiring in” to keep the food package in place, so take care where and how you attach the wire. Most folks suggest using 3 sheets of aluminum to wrap the food, folding the seam lengthwise several times, then folding the ends several times as well. There will be variations in temperature within the engine compartment, and can be used strategically for the miles/time of your travel. I found 2 places on my engine and placed foil wrapped cobs of corn (still in their husks) on each side of the engine. I drove to an out-of-town seminar covering about 50 miles in mixed traffic. When I arrived at my destination, it was raining, so I dashed inside and initially forgot to take out my meal. When the rain stopped, I woke up to the fact that I had food waiting for me, so I dashed out to the car and lifted the hood. The engine was still quite warm, so I carefully removed the food bundles. To my delight, the corn was great! No engine taste, and very tender. Cooking in wrapped foil keeps moisture in, thus allowing a lot of latitude in the finished product. So, if this intrigues you too, be careful, but have fun trying this method. I plan to try more meals on future excursions.

Solar Soup Scenario

Ken — Sat, 10 Jul 2010 11:00:27 +0000

Although my primary interest in survival skills revolves around firecraft, I have begun to research alternate methods of cooking without using fire. A growing trend for cooking, especially in under-developed countries, is by using solar technology. Solar cooking takes time, but requires no fuel or flames. Heat is collected from the sun’s rays and enhanced by reflection, magnification, insulation, and absorption. There are many solar products being developed by humanitarian organizations and by “Preppers” in the marketplace.

However, in the spirit of survival, and by the mandate “what can you do with what you have?”, I decided to use items that I found in the trash. I used a silverized bag from a snack food and an empty soda can. The plan was to cut open the bag and form a reflective bowl, and in the center, place a dark, heat absorptive soda can in which to heat water. The day was hot and I began with room temperature water. I used a P38 can opener to create a hinged lid on top of the soda can for potential food access that was kept closed while cooking. As shown in the photos, the exterior and interior temperatures exceeded 150 degrees F. in about an hour.

I often keep packets of flavoring from Top Ramen meals to create a nice bullion soup. Another benefit of solar cooking is that you can pasteurize water to kill germs and disease-carrying organisms. Heat the water to at least 150 degrees F. (65 degrees C.) and keep it at that temperature or above for at least 30 minutes. The important thing is to keep reflectors focused while the sun changes position, and if possible, insulate the setup from wind or other cooling effects.

“I’ll trade this for a trout”

Ken — Sat, 03 Jul 2010 11:00:12 +0000

When I was a teen and living in the city, I longed for the outdoors. My cousin invited me to go hiking with him and his dad, his dad’s brother, and the other boys in our tribe for a week in the mountains of California. I had a backpack that I had used for weekend outings with a boys club from my church. The backpack had served more as a duffel bag than for actual travel on trails. I had packed the usual things that I had been taught, but the night before we departed, my cousin and uncle clued me in on thinking “lite” and so we fine-tuned my load.

Later that week, we camped early by a small lake. My uncle often reclined after a bite to eat while the rest of us were eager to explore our new surroundings. With a quick motion, my uncle struck his cupped hand on the ground and came up with a grasshopper. Turning to us he said “I’ll trade this for a trout”. Whereas I had been mesmerized by fancy lures and flies, this simple statement struck me with lasting impact… how a simple bait could be so effective. Even today I try different lures, but nothing beats the real deal. I have kept a long slender branch with an attached line and hook hidden by my favorite pond, knowing that when I happen by occasionally, I just need to scuffle through the brush, or roll some rotten logs to find the tender of trade to exchange for a fish.