As most firecrafters will attest, repeated use of a spindle will cause it to shorten with each use until it becomes a stub making it more difficult to use because it is prone to flip out of the hearthboard socket while bowing. Using a longer spindle gives less lateral pressure to the spindle, thus making it more stable and easier to hold in place when using a bearing block. Another problem is that spindles can get “polished” in a spot that causes slippage by the bow’s cord. A longer spindle offers more surface for the cord to operate and the cord can be raised or lowered on the spindle for better traction. I also recommend operating the bow parallel to the hearthboard as the “V” notch on the edge can wear out a bit allowing the spindle to slip out of the socket more easily when perpendicular bowing is employed.

A longer bow allows for fewer strokes because there are more spindle rotations per stroke. This translates into longer moments of friction heating the hearthboard and the sustained heat creates char more quickly wherein an ember is created.

There is a great satisfaction when creating fire using a bow and spindle. I remember the glow of my first successful ember emerging from the smoldering pile of char. I still remain amazed each time at this accomplishment. Using a longer spindle and bow can get you there more quickly and with less effort.

To pursue this approach I found a soda can and cut off the top using a sharp knife. With a little trimming I left two tabs on opposite sides that I bent out for the purpose of attaching to the bow. I used duct tape to wrap the tabs in order to prevent scratches on the bow, then I taped the tabs onto the bow itself, mounting the newly formed reel below the hand grip.

I had monofiliment fishing line on hand so I wound it around the can so that it would unwind from underneath the left side of the can to avoid entangling my hand while drawing back the arrow.

The challenge that I faced was that the monofiliment was “springy” by nature and tended to spool off the can too readily. I overcame this effect by placing a bobby-pin flat side up over the reel from the open end of the can so that the line could easily slip out when the arrow was released.

After my initial experience I did a little research and decided to make a second version using a plastic bottle that had a slight hour-glass shape. This helped to prevent line from sliding off of the reel. I also used braided cord instead of monofiliment because it was comparatively limp and more easily stayed in place. I happened to have twisted nylon mason line that I used in liew of commercial braided fishing line. Another benefit of using the plastic bottle is that there are several “grooves” at the bottom that acts to hold the line in place while drawing back the arrow.

Either reel version works. The monofiliment line is light and fast but tends to tangle. The braided cord is heavier but more easily handled. Either way these are improvised reels that could serve you well in a pinch. Why not give it a try for yourself and see which one works best for you.

Today we see many survival television shows and web based videos where hosts and participants wear a Cobra Lanyard Stitch wrist band. At a recent multi-day event in which I demonstrated primitive and survival skills, I noticed that a visitor was wearing such a wrist band. I hadn’t seen one up close so I inquired about it’s purpose and construction. I was told that it contained about 6 feet of paracord at the ready for emergency use. This cordage too can be used to construct a bow & spindle fire kit as well as for a myriad of other uses. The next day he brought extra cord and taught me how to make one for myself.

It’s interesting to know that in parts of Papua New Guinea, tribesmen still wear rattan wrapped around their wrists that they unwind to use with the fire-thong method. So, wearing reserve survival gear has been an historic tradition that has been kept alive for those who want to be prepared. And you thought it was just a fashion accessory…

I’ve always maintained that indigenous people would have used Bic Lighters if they were available, but, alas, they used the resources that were available to them at the time. As I watched a circle of flint knappers at work, I noticed some of the materials that they used. Although I saw some antlers traditionally used as billets, most used modified copper capped pipes that had been weighted with lead. Although there was obsidian piled in a box, I also saw some white material that was unfamiliar to me. I asked what the material was and the response was “John” stone… which was the porcelain from broken lids of toilets (or “Johns”). One knapper said that, outside of the wilderness, you could always find this resource to use. I also saw some arrowheads that were knapped from beer bottles.

It pleases me to see primitive skills kept alive while incorporating modern materials and resources. It’s the gift of ingenuity that helps us to adapt and survive. By continual practice and evaluation, we can improve and build our skills to better prepare us for emergencies and challenges that may lie ahead.

The hearthboard usually includes a slight pit or depression that keeps the head of the spindle stable and centered while being turned. In addition, there is almost always a notch included that serves two functions: one, to collect the char produced by the rapidly turning spindle, enabling it to collect heat as it grows with each subsequent turn, and two, it allows air to access the hot char, thus providing the heat-fuel-air trio needed to create a live coal once proper temperature is reached and sustained. Each of the following hearthboard types includes these two vital elements.

These bones have been traditionally used for a socket in the bow and spindle fire method, and are very durable. They are prized for their authentic part of traditional primitive fire kits, as well as great performance. Sockets are not so easy to come by naturally. You can find some rocks, shells, etc., and you can just use another block of hard wood with a hollowed pivot point, but the socket depth and durability of these materials may make it difficult or limited in their use.

Once removed from the leg, they can be boiled to harden and any connective tissue is more easily removed from the bone.