I began by preparing the coffee can (alternatively you can use a number 10 can). This particular coffee can had a wide flange on the top so I trimmed if off so that there was no restriction for inserting the chicken and would allow for air flow around the sides. An inch from the bottom I punched 1/4″ holes using a very large nail. I placed a few blocks of wood inside the can for support for this process. I chose to make 6 holes but more would be okay. Be careful of the jagged edges inside when removing the blocks of wood. To fashion a handle I pierced two holes on opposite sides of the can just beneath the top rim through which I fastened coat hanger wire. I used extra wire to suspend this apparatus from a beam on my porch.

Next I placed 16 briquets into the bottom of the can. When doused with charcoal lighter fluid it should take about 20 minutes to become ready with a white coating of ash on each briquet. I didn’t have charcoal starter fluid so I used some pieces of newspaper and a hair dryer that I used as a bellows to get it started. This process should be performed on a surface that won’t be damaged by the heat, for instance, a grill or rock.

While the coals were getting ready I prepared the chicken by adding a dry rub to it then placed it head-end down on two large sheets of heavy duty aluminum foil. I tightly wrapped each sheet separately, folding the edges so that it was sealed to prevent any juices produced during the cooking process from leaking that could potentially extinguish the coals.

My wife suggested that I put veggies like onions, garlic and celery inside the chicken body which I did, but it may have extended the cooking time a little. Most recipes call for a 3 lb. chicken that cooks for 3 hours, but I could only find a 4 3/4 lb. chicken which extended the cooking time by another 1 1/2 hours which pushed the limits of the coals but was still successful.

When the coals were ready, I placed the foil wrapped chicken into the can with the feet side up. Because of my chickens’ large size, I decided to ensure air flow along the sides of the chicken by sliding the handle of a butter knife down between the foil and the inside of the can to create air channels. A smaller chicken would not require this extra step.

The beauty of this cooking method is that once the chicken is placed into the can, it can be unattended so that you can go on a hike or go fishing while it cooks by itself. The can gets hot on the bottom and can potentially damage any surface that the can might be placed on so I like to hang the can high enough to avoid critters yet low enough from the supporting structure above it to avoid any damage. While it cooks you can feel the heat at the top of the bundle that lets you know that cooking is under way.

When the meat has finished cooking it will be so tender that you can just pull it apart by hand. The basic rule of cooking time is 1 hour per pound of meat, but with the meat being sealed I wouldn’t worry about over cooking if you return a little later from fishing than expected.

One option is to use the can like a cup and “drink” the contents. For loose contents like corn, this actually works quite well, but for pudding, it’s inefficient and sometimes messy. Fortunately, a spoon can be improvised from the lid that can be very useful and efficient in collecting the entire contents of your can.

It should be said that handling sharp edged metal can be hazardous, especially when forming the spoon or when eating from it, so don’t be in a rush and take care in the process. When I form a spoon, I take the removed lid and return the pull-tab to the original flat position. Then I swivel the tab 180 degrees outward so that it extends out past the outer edge. If the tab is too stiff to rotate, just bent it outward. Either way this makes a fine handle. Then I form a narrow triangular scoop by rolling the adjacent edges to the tab upward to form short walls and with the remaining narrow edge I fold up only slightly. In short order you will be adept at using it to eat.

So, remember to take care when forming the spoon and eating from it. You’ll be surprised how efficient it is and you may decide that carrying utensils may no longer be necessary.

When soda can burners became popular I enjoyed constructing various configurations, experimenting with ways to maximize the flame. Around the same time I made slush lamps using different wicks and fuels. Eventually this led to the realization that hand sanitizer contains 62 percent ethyl alcohol and can be used as fuel to cook small amounts of food. You can watch this being demonstrated in my video “Bottle Cap Burner“.

One of the key elements in the hand sanitizer cooking set-up is the need to protect the flame from wind while incorporating a support for the cooking vessel. Because I use a thimble-sized beer bottle cap full of hand sanitizer for a burner, and a Sierra cup for cooking, I find that a “Beanee Weenee” 8 oz. can is just the right size for support. Larger cans work best for larger pans.

To begin constructing a windscreen/pot stand you’ll need to find a can that has lids on both top and bottom as some cans are seamless on the bottom and don’t lend themselves to opening. You can use a conventional crank/rotary type of can opener or a military issue P38. Once the lids are removed a “church key” can opener is used to punch triangular holes along the outside rims on the top and bottom edges. I like to offset the top and bottom holes as I believe that it helps to facilitate the natural vortex created by flames. Different burners may require modifications in order to accommodate their unique features.

Needless to say that wider profile pot stands are more stable than taller ones. Check out my video “2 Minute Stove For $1“. The design of this alcohol burner incorporates a windscreen and pot stand. Because the Soda can has a tall profile, care must be taken when placing cooking vessels on top. This should be placed on a stable – level surface for operation.

So, next time you go shopping, check out the different sizes of canned-goods and imagine what creative pieces of equipment it could make.

It goes without saying that you should always be careful around an open flame, observing precautions to keep flammable objects at a safe distance and the flame source in a stable position. In tight quarters be sure to have adequate ventilation. The following is a set-up that I have used successfully that you may find helpful. The objects needed are a metal coffee can, a tea-candle, matches or a lighter, and a blanket, sheet, poncho or other body cover.

In a sitting position I place a coffee can on the floor between the heels of my feet with the open end up. Then I place a tea-candle inside the can along the bottom edge. This position allows room for my hand to reach in with a match or lighter to light the candle. Once lit, I reposition the candle to the center of the can to provide even heat and a safety zone. Next, I place the blanket around my shoulders and over my lap which forms a tent-like covering. This captures the heat that rises from the candle and holds it around my body. The can enclosure shields both the flame from the wind, and adjacent clothing from the flame.

This heating set-up would be good to store in your vehicle on the occasion that you might get stranded during a Winter storm.

Once a pull tab is carefully removed from a can lid, you can fold over the small attachment eye on the tab to smooth out the ring’s inside edge. Any sharp edges can wear on the line over time but give added friction to help hold the line in place. You can feed the line in the larger hole, pass over the middle bar, and exit out the other hole. Pull the line out a ways and return the end of the line to the previously attached end of the tab and tie onto it… I prefer a bolen knot, but a couple of half-hitches (simple knots) will do. You can now place your cord’s loop around an anchor like a tent peg and slide the new tensioner up the line until the slack in the loop is taken up. This device works best on cord versus string as a thicker line provides better friction.

Keep this handy application in mind along with pull-tab fish hooks. What other applications have you used? Please share them in the comments below.

– tin can opener (duh!)
– tasting spoon
– striker for ferrocerium rod
– hearthboard coal transfer
– screw driver
– pry bar
– paint can opener
– shipping box opener
– letter opener
– label removal
– staple remover
– thumbtack remover
– paint spot scraper
– putty knife
– clean under finger nails
– privacy door knob key
– Velcro hook pad dethatcher

For more uses and ideas, you can use various web search engines that will provide many other lists to choose from. I’d love to hear from you in the comments section on different ways that YOU have used a P38. If you don’t have a P38 of your own, you can purchase one in the Survivaltek Store.