Charcloth is traditionally made by placing small squares of cotton material in a small metal container that is placed on coals or in a fire. It must have some minor holes or loose seams to allow pressure to be released as a result of gasification of the cotton material within during the baking process. A brown smoke is emitted for a time and when it dissipates the container is removed from the heat and allowed to cool before it is opened to reveal it’s contents.

Metal containers are used as a barrier between the cotton and fire. What if you didn’t have a metal container with which to make charcloth? I wanted to know if a different barrier could be used instead of metal and decided to try using sand as a barrier to cover a strip of cotton cloth that would be placed underneath a small campfire.

Because the season was wet I collected some sand and spread it out to dry by the sun. Then I dug a shallow trough sloping down to an inch in depth on one side and spread a layer of sand across the bottom. Next, I laid a strip of cotton jean cloth on top of that with the top end just touching the surface. I filled the trough with sand until it was level with the ground to see how char might form at different depths of coverage by the heat generated by the coals and fire above.

I built a campfire (not a bonfire) over it and let it burn for about an hour whereupon I carefully removed the coals and sand to reveal the test strip of cloth. I was surprised to find that the nearly exposed end was properly charred while deeper material was left unscathed. As a result of this finding I would just lay the cloth flat on the ground and sprinkle sand on top just enough to cover it from view. I used the charred end of my test strip to catch a spark with flint & steel to validate proper baking then proceeded to make a flame to complete the fire making process.

In the end, I found that this method might have it’s place in certain circumstances but I might prefer to use what I call the “Quickie Charcloth” method of directly burning the cotton cloth and extinguishing it before it’s consumed. This was a proof of concept exercise and validated one approach to making charcloth without a metal container. It also created a great moment of solitude by a campfire… another opportunity to enjoy the great outdoors!

Making charcloth takes time and sometimes can be difficult to achieve the optimal conditions and cook-times for the best results. Like any process, consistency gives you the ability to produce predictable results which leads to perfection. I suppose that folks throughout history that used this fire method on a daily basis had the process down pat, but for those of us in the modern world who are “citified” are inconsistent in this process. However, modern technology can be our friend.

While visiting a local “flea” market I came across an electric single burner hotplate; a counter-top appliance that is typically used to percolate coffee or cook a one-pot meal. It had a rheostat to control the temperature and it dawned on me that I could use this to cook cotton fabric into charcloth. So, for two dollars, I walked away with what I hoped to be a solution to charcloth perfection, and as a bonus, no fire or coals were needed.

In a previous article “Making Charcloth” I showed how I form little cotton patch “burrito” rolls laid side-by-side inside of an Altoids tin. This is the set-up that I placed on the burner element set on “high”. At about two minutes brown smoke began to emerge. After an additional five minutes the smoke began to diminish and I pulled the tin off of the burner to cool. When I opened the tin I could see that I needed to adjust the timing slightly but still had usable charcloth. I will continue to experiment with the dynamic of temperature and time to find the right combination for optimum results.

Now I have the capability to make charcloth without the need for fire or coals and with the predictability of quality. So keep on the lookout for a single electric burner next time that you visit a flea market or yard sale so that you can produce and keep a ready supply of charcloth on hand for your next flint and steel fire.

The teacher explained that sugar is a fuel and suggested that we try to ignite it with a lit match. Try as we might it wouldn’t take a flame. He explained that the composition of the sugar required a higher temperature than a match could provide. He then rubbed some ashes (carbon) on the sides and voilà! it took a flame and burned. He explained that the carbon acted as a catalyst to raise the heat to reach the ignition point of the sugar cube.

We experience the catalyst properties of carbon all the time in firecraft.
We usually refer to this material as “char” which is partially burned or carbonized cellulose. We carbonize cotton swatches by pyrolysis when they are cooked in a can void of oxygen to prevent ignition. We produce nearly black “char” powder when we perform fire-by-friction that when exposed to increased heat produces a coal. Carbon ashes can also be added to fine cellulose to capture weak sparks produced by the flint and pyrite/marcacite fire method.

Another benefit of charred material is that it is dark and thus absorbs heat. This is particularly effective when performing solar firecraft (see “ICEE” Lid Fire Method). Carbon is the stepping stone to fire.

I have found that charcoal is also instrumental in the ignition of a campfire. In lieu of using an accelerant, saving bits of charcoal for use in the building of a campfire helps to capture the ignition source and speeds the transition to larger pieces of fuel sized material.

The more you practice firecraft, the more you understand the importance that carbon plays is creating fire.

Most folks who demonstrate flint & steel fire making like to use jute fiber to make a flame from the glowing charcloth. It is quick and dramatic. A ball of fine natural fibers works quite well for this purpose. However, in this case, a candle is lit by igniting the vapor of super-heated wax which in turn lights the wick. In some circles of Civil War reenactors it has been a badge of pride to accomplish this skill.

In an article “Making Charcloth” I describe how to make charcloth by using small pieces of rolled up cotton fabric. I have found the finished charcloth rolls to be the key element to igniting a candle. Many flint & steel kits include candles as they are used to sustain a flame while starting a campfire and it is especially useful when using damp materials for tinder. I use a small birthday cake candle in my kit and for this candle lighting method.

The procedure I follow is to catch a spark at one end of the charcloth roll, then place the seam of the charcloth roll against the candle (to avoid unraveling) with the spark end next to the candle wick. Tilt them slightly so that the charcloth is under the wick, enabling the heat to rise up to the candle. Blow gently from the charcloth side toward the candle. As the wax melts smoke will appear and with a gentle sustained breath the vapor will eventually ignite the candle wick. Good quality charcloth will make a positive difference.

Once learned, this method has a practical application besides exhibiting your flint and steel prowess, it offers an alternative ignition source in the event that you do not have fiber available.

Carbonizing is accomplished by charring or a partial burning process. Typically small pieces of cotton (perhaps 2″ square) are placed in a covered metal container and placed over heat such as a fire or coals. The metal container must have seams or holes to release the pressure that builds up due to the gasification that occurs while the material bakes. The container prevents the material from igniting so that it is not “spent” or consumed. Different materials are popular for making charcloth: jeans, underwear, cheesecloth and gauze – all made of 100 percent cotton.

You can use small empty paint cans with a nail hole punched into the lid. The can should be turned occasionally during the baking process to evenly expose the contents inside. A very popular and portable container is an “Altoids” mint canister that is compact and requires less bake time for a finished product. I used to stack cloth squares inside these containers but battled uneven results. More recently I’ve learned to roll the cloth squares into small rolls and lay them side-by-side with very excellent results.

The general rule for cook time is to watch the emission of smoke out of the canister which should be fairly steady and when it diminishes, take the container off the heat, let cool, then open for inspection. The charred cloth should be black, not brown, and when handled should be velvety and light weight.

There is a method of making charcloth that does not require a container – it’s called “quick char” where a piece of cloth is lit directly then snuffed out once the piece turns black. There is usually enough suitable char to make a flame with tinder but baked char is thoroughly treated and even in carbon content and performs better providing that it is stored in a moisture-tight container.