I have seen a number of posts on social media where cordage has been made from plastic beverage bottles. By creating a jig from wood that incorporates a knife blade, a plastic bottle can be cut into a thin ribbon that spirals the circumference along the length of the bottle. I wondered if that plastic ribbon could be used as cordage for a bow.

I made a jig, made the plastic “cord”, and found it to be strong but slippery and unweildy. My plan was to make an Egyptian Style Bow with a knot around the middle of the spindle with cordage wound above and below it. This method does not depend on friction to spin the spindle but just unwraps and rewraps with each stroke of the bow.

Because the ribbon was unwieldy, I cut slots at each end of the bow that were perpendicular to the bend, tying one end into a fat knot and wrapped the other end around the handle to allow for adjustable tension.

As I stroked the bow back and forth it performed beautifully and I brought the resulting char to a smoldering ember.

As mentioned above there are many materials used for cordage but now you know of yet another resource should others be scarce or not available.

 
 
 
 I bought a spool of mason’s line at the big box hardware store for $6. It was 250 ft. I had figured that the project would require 320 ft. but I wondered what I could do with less. I started by stretching a line across an 8 ft. board that I placed between 2 trees. I marked the line with a sharpie pen every 4 inches. Then I cut 12 ft. lengths of line and folded each one in half and began to fasten them onto the top line at each mark using larks head knots (also known as cows hitch knots).

 The original plan was to make an 8 ft. wide by 6 ft. tall net. I began to run out of line at the 6 ft. mark and so began to tie the hanging lines at alternate pairs to create the diamond shaped pattern of netting. I would grab the left line and roll the first loop up and hold it while I rolled a second loop beneath the first knot in the opposite direction. I would join the loops together that formed a lark’s head knot after I pulled the right line through the double loop. The lark’s head knot when spread open revealed 2 overhead knots appearing like a square knot that could be adjusted to the right length to create the diamond net cell.

Once I finished the net I had to figure out a way to suspend it. It was obviously too short to hang it like a conventional hammock so I used it like a sling. I used some polypropylene rope to thread through the net’s outer edge loops before attaching them to opposing sides of each tree. Proper practice is to use slings to attach to each tree but for the quick test I just tied the ropes directly.

I gingerly entered the gill net hammock and it held!. A longer net would have been more comfortable but the experiment was a success. The more I wiggled to settle in the hammock the net began to slide from the outsides inward so fastening the head end would be needed. It seems that the foot end could remain loose as it can be slid to the middle in order to step out of the net to exit.

This hammock is certainly not convenient or perhaps for some even safe but it might be better than laying on the ground in certain conditions and uses simple materials to construct. As usual, it was a fun project of discovery and learning.

These poles, perhaps an inch in diameter, should be stiff with a slight ability to flex so that when combined with other poles will create a woven framework. Unlike a woven basket that uses very flexible vines or reed-like branches, the finished pole structure might more visibly resemble a panel or flat frame.

I happened to have some bamboo poles so I decided to try out this method of an interlaced structure. The bamboo has a very smooth surface and was very slippery but it did work as shown in the photo. The stability of poles used in this way could be enhanced by making notches where the two parts cross. Additional sticks could be added like a conventional debris hut or teepee to provide insulation to the frame. It helps to align the bottom ends on the ground to settle each side and could be stabilized even further by pressing each pole into the ground like a stake.

There are so many ways to make cordage that would make this a more stable structure but it’s good to know alternative methods when your resources may be limited.

Because of that early experience I was able recently to redeem some salvaged ropes that gave me a usable longer rope for odd jobs. A few weeks ago I was able to pull my son’s car out of a muddy ditch by using that rope which gave me a real sense of satisfaction.

It turns out that my son’s car had no anchor points to tie onto underneath the rear so I had to weave the rope in and out of the slotted chassis frame in order to attach it. That took some time to accomplish and as a result I decided to buy a “slip hook” for shallow attachment situations. Having one splice in the rope already, I decided to continue the theme by attaching the slip hook using an “eye splice” where the end of the rope forms a loop when the end is spliced into it’s side. A loop such as this can be a great attachment point for other apparatus as well. At the other end of the rope I made a “back splice” that makes a nice termination similar in function to whipping a rope to keep the end from unraveling.

There are a number of “how-to” videos and articles online that are well worth viewing and I recommend that they should be followed by personal practice to gain valuable experience. Rope and cordage skills should be a part of your emergency preparation skills and can save the day when needed.

Many hammock enthusiasts are familiar with “whoopie slings”. They take an end of a braided cord such as Amsteel and insert it into the side of the cord further down and direct it into the hollow core of the cord for several inches and then redirect it back out again. This is known as a spliced choker. The cord’s length can be changed by adjusting the size of the loop that is created using this method. You might be familiar with a Chinese finger trap toy that uses the same principal of constriction. The compression of the outer sheath caused when a load is applied to the primary line holds the woven portion of the cord in place.

Similarly my fellow instructor’s cordage loop operates on a compression basis as well but instead of being routed down the core of the cord it takes a serpentine path that waves back and forth through the main line. As illustrated in the photo it has several cinch points. You may also notice that the end of the cord has been fused using a flame but formed into a point. This point acts as a needle for weaving the cord’s end back and forth through the primary strand. I call it a serpentine compression weave.

Whereas making a spliced choker often requires tools, the serpentine compression weave is accomplished very simply by using the built-in “needle” and only requires a way to fuse the pointed end. This would be an easy campsite project using braided synthetic cordage and can be used in a variety of ways.

Here are some of it’s applications:

FISH GORGE – bait is placed on the fish gorge with the purpose that the fish will swallow the bait and gorge in whole that in turn will twist within the fishes gullet or mouth allowing the fish to be caught and retrieved.
TRAP AND DEADFALL TRIGGER – Traps and deadfalls use stored energy from a bent sapling or from elevated dead weight. The toggle enables a delicate trigger to be placed in such a way as to release these devices to snare or crush the intended small game animal.
TARPS / CLOTHING – A toggle can be passed through a grommit or loop and when turned 90 degrees and will hold fast a tarp or join the seam of clothing.
HAMMOCK SUSPENSION – Hammock enthusiasts have found that a quick way to attach tree straps to their hammock lines is by using a toggle. In lieu of an actual toggle a small bar is used as a marlin spike that in turn performs as a toggle for connection.
SURVIVAL WRIST BAND – A simple attachment for the popular paracord wrist band is a small ferro rod that can be used to start fires when needed. The ferro rod is the toggle that is placed through it’s corresponding loop.

You can see from these examples how effective toggles can be which is why this is such a valued tool throughout history. You may find other applications but it’s a good tool in your survival knowledge base that could make a huge difference in a survival situation.

 

Did you know that ear phones can be used as a microphone in a pinch? It can be plugged into the microphone socket of your computer or similar device for this purpose. The earbuds have a stereo jack so only plug it in half-way (one click) for it to record successfully, then hold the earbuds together to use as a regular microphone.

Many people don’t realize that there is a magnet inside of each earbud. If you drop a ferrimagnetic item in a crevice, down a drain, or similar hard-to-reach area you can remove the ear-side cover of the earbuds and expose the magnet within. You can pull back the plastic housing to allow full contact of the magnet’s surface and lower it down to retrieve what has been dropped. The magnets can be quite strong as illustrated in the photo where it actually held up a combination lock! For tiny crevices you can straighten out a paper clip and attach the earbud magnet to one end while using the other end to pick up the item. The magnetism is transferred throughout the length of the paper clip.

The magnet can also be used to magnetize a needle or paper clip by stroking the length of it in one direction several times. The item magnetized can then be used as a compass needle when floated on water or suspended in air by a thread.

Of course an obvious use of earbuds would be that of cordage. The uses of cordage are almost countless so you’re only limited by it’s strength and length. Some earbud cords use twin wire without an outer sheath so it can be pulled apart lengthwise to double it’s length for use. I often use my earbuds to compare the width/length of different items by placing the jack at one edge of an item then stretching it out to the opposite edge and pinching the cord as a marker then holding it next to the item or space for comparison

Earbuds can be purchased “on the cheap” at a thrift store so they would be affordable to acquire for testing any of these examples to build your experience base for future needs and emergencies.

Primitive living skills that I enjoy apply to bushcraft wonderfully but cordage can be a challenge due to the resources available. It can take time to process and there’s the question of durability for it’s use. For expedience sake I would practice with commercial cordage which is readily available and reliable.

There are basically two types of cordage on the market: natural fiber and synthetic strand. If you visit a hardware store or shopping isle you can find twine and rope made of cotton, sisal, jute, manila or hemp. These are natural fibers with low stretch and grippy surfaces. The other cordage will be synthetic fiber made of materials such as polyester, polypropylene, and nylon. This cordage will be stronger and more durable but somewhat slippery. You will find their construction will fall in the categories of twisted, solid braid, or diamond braid. The diamond braid is a weaved sheath around a linear fiber core and is less durable than a solid braid.

I usually preferred cordage used for small engine starting cord or drapery valence cord for bow & spindle practice for it’s durability but recently I came across this much less expensive tie-down rope that costs three cents a foot and wanted to share this bargain with other firecrafters and outdoor enthusiasts. Cordage is always good to have in your camping gear, vehicle emergency kit, Bug-Out-Bag, or household. By buying a variety of cordage you can become familiar with their properties and which one is appropriate for your applications.

On the bushcraft side of life, cordage can be made in the field from a variety of fibrous materials. Plants such as nettles, dogbane, milkweed, thistle, grass, and more provide fiber that can be twisted by hand into strands of cordage. Using fibers can often take time to prepare but there is perhaps a quicker resource for binding material – sapling roots.

A sapling is defined as a young tree, especially one with a slender trunk. They send out roots that are close to the surface of the ground that can grow to several feet in length. In addition, they are very flexible and quite strong.

The root in the photo was collected from a sapling at the edge of the woods behind my home. The ground is covered by leaves and very moist from recent rains. I used a gardening hand cultivator to dig up the soil to reveal and retrieve the root but a digging stick or even just your hands can accomplish the same task. This root was just an inch or so below the surface and about three feet long but other roots could easily be longer. Care should be taken to uncover these as much as possible rather than just pulling it free to preserve their length which will make them much more serviceable for binding.

The tripod in the photo was lashed together using this single root and was very serviceable. Additional roots could be used to further strengthen it if needed or to hang a pot over a campfire for cooking. In any case, it took very little effort to collect the root and assemble the tripod in a short amount of time.

Polyethylene plastic is pretty tough material but of course has it’s limits based on the thickness/thinness of the material. I have used plastic bags in the past to bind items but was limited by it’s length. It occurred to me that with a little modification I could “daisy-chain” cordage to any length needed using multiple bags.

I decided to cut each bag down the mid-line, top-to-bottom, and then poke a hole inside the pleated fold at the bottom. Now I could poke the handle loop from the first half through the bottom hole of the second half, then push the bottom of the first half through it’s own emerging handle loop, thus creating a daisy-chain link that could be repeated with each ensuing bag half. If necessary it could be twisted like conventional cordage while combining multiple daisy-chained strands for added strength.

This may not be the strongest cord but definitely has it’s place for improvised cordage in a pinch for simple tie-downs and binding.