As most firecrafters will attest, repeated use of a spindle will cause it to shorten with each use until it becomes a stub making it more difficult to use because it is prone to flip out of the hearthboard socket while bowing. Using a longer spindle gives less lateral pressure to the spindle, thus making it more stable and easier to hold in place when using a bearing block. Another problem is that spindles can get “polished” in a spot that causes slippage by the bow’s cord. A longer spindle offers more surface for the cord to operate and the cord can be raised or lowered on the spindle for better traction. I also recommend operating the bow parallel to the hearthboard as the “V” notch on the edge can wear out a bit allowing the spindle to slip out of the socket more easily when perpendicular bowing is employed.

A longer bow allows for fewer strokes because there are more spindle rotations per stroke. This translates into longer moments of friction heating the hearthboard and the sustained heat creates char more quickly wherein an ember is created.

There is a great satisfaction when creating fire using a bow and spindle. I remember the glow of my first successful ember emerging from the smoldering pile of char. I still remain amazed each time at this accomplishment. Using a longer spindle and bow can get you there more quickly and with less effort.

The main difference between the Egyptian Bow Drill and a conventional bow drill is that a knot is tied around the spindle thus capturing it with two main benefits: the spindle (especially short ones) cannot fly off the hearth board and become airborne; less tension and friction is required for the cord to turn the spindle. This is particularly helpful when weaker natural fiber cordage or improvised cordage is used.

Typically a clove hitch is used to fasten the cord in the center of the spindle, with the lines being coiled around the spindle on each side of the knot (see photo). About 3 turns per coil worked best for me to draw a full stroke in each direction. The net effect is that while one side unwinds, the opposite side rewinds and the process is reversed with each stroke of the bow.

I found that a slight angle to the bow was needed to compensate for the span of wrapped cordage in order to maintain a smooth stroke and rhythm. For me, I prefer the conventional bow drill with a taught line, but for weaker cords that are more loose or can’t take the strain, the Egyptian Bow Drill is a good way to go.

Today we see many survival television shows and web based videos where hosts and participants wear a Cobra Lanyard Stitch wrist band. At a recent multi-day event in which I demonstrated primitive and survival skills, I noticed that a visitor was wearing such a wrist band. I hadn’t seen one up close so I inquired about it’s purpose and construction. I was told that it contained about 6 feet of paracord at the ready for emergency use. This cordage too can be used to construct a bow & spindle fire kit as well as for a myriad of other uses. The next day he brought extra cord and taught me how to make one for myself.

It’s interesting to know that in parts of Papua New Guinea, tribesmen still wear rattan wrapped around their wrists that they unwind to use with the fire-thong method. So, wearing reserve survival gear has been an historic tradition that has been kept alive for those who want to be prepared. And you thought it was just a fashion accessory…

The hearthboard usually includes a slight pit or depression that keeps the head of the spindle stable and centered while being turned. In addition, there is almost always a notch included that serves two functions: one, to collect the char produced by the rapidly turning spindle, enabling it to collect heat as it grows with each subsequent turn, and two, it allows air to access the hot char, thus providing the heat-fuel-air trio needed to create a live coal once proper temperature is reached and sustained. Each of the following hearthboard types includes these two vital elements.

These bones have been traditionally used for a socket in the bow and spindle fire method, and are very durable. They are prized for their authentic part of traditional primitive fire kits, as well as great performance. Sockets are not so easy to come by naturally. You can find some rocks, shells, etc., and you can just use another block of hard wood with a hollowed pivot point, but the socket depth and durability of these materials may make it difficult or limited in their use.

Once removed from the leg, they can be boiled to harden and any connective tissue is more easily removed from the bone.