A “bearing block” is any device that is used to bear down on the top end of a spindle to facilitate the stability and pressure of the spindle as it is spun using a bow or strap. There is usually an indentation that keeps the tip of the spindle in place. The best feature of a bearing block is that it is hard and durable while at the same time being as friction free as possible. Sometimes folks will add a little grease, fat, or wax to the socket to optimize it’s performance.

Natural sockets might be found in rocks, shells, and bones. Natural materials for crafting bearing blocks might include wood, stone, and antlers. It is possible to use both halves of a split branch for fire by friction with one half used for the hearth board while the other half is used as the bearing block. I prefer using the same wood for both the spindle and hearthboard but it is best to use a more durable material for the bearing block to minimize friction on the top end of the spindle.

In modern times there are a number of “trash” items that can be used in an emergency or on a temporary basis such as bottle caps, pipe caps, concave wine bottle bottoms and such. More durable bearing blocks have been made using machine bearings, embedded coins, or anything that forms a socket shape that will not get too hot or disintegrate during the bowing process. Some knife manufacturers have designed sockets in their handles for emergency use. I have used a circle feature in the blade on one of my folding knives.

In the end, there are a variety of items that can be used as a bearing block and I would suggest that those who practice firecraft should experiment with different things to become aware of strengths and weaknesses of materials and learn how to improvise when needed. What items have you used for bearing blocks?

Generally speaking there are a variety of plastic bags that can be used for this purpose and are available in different thicknesses and for different purposes. Contractors trash bags are generally black and heavy duty with a thicker mil number and can be found at a hardware store. Home garbage-can/leaf bags are produced in various dark colors and can be found at a grocery store. The orange trash/leaf bags are often used for highway roadside cleanup and can be found at a janitor supply store.

When choosing a bag for your hiking/survival kit it is important to select a bag that is big enough to completely cover your body in a crouched position. The orange bag shown in the photo had pleats at the bottom that formed a gable when a hole was cut inside it. When I use other bags as a shelter I place a corner above my head like the peak of a roof then cut a horizontal slot at eye level then flip the upper edge up and outward to make a small rain gutter over the opening. If you are caught in the rain be aware of water shedding paths and position your covering to drip on the outside.

A plastic bag does a good job of containing your body heat but is also susceptible to condensation and can conduct cool temps when your skin touches it from inside. It’s best to wear clothes that give you insulation from the plastic thus keeping you warmer and dryer. The small window at the top prevents asphyxiation and gives you a view to watch for your rescuers.

I recommend carrying plastic bags in your emergency kits whether in your vehicle, in the office, or hiking bag. They don’t take much space, are inexpensive, and can be used in a variety of ways. It’s a great resource for preparedness.

Reflective Solar Fire Method

The mirrored surface of a headlight reflector is described as “concave” in shape, similar to the interior surface of a rounded cup. It reflects light from a light-bulb that is mounted inside it and shines outward. Some of the newer headlights use a “convex” lens that transmits light through it. It is fashioned from a solid material such as glass or plastic that focuses the light from a light-bulb outward as well.

Refractive Solar Fire Method

Recently I picked up an ICEE (a.k.a. Slurpee and Slushy) lid and noticed the clear concave surface. I knew that it could possibly make a lens when filled with water. In my early days of experimentation I would try different open vessels filled with water and discovered two things: water should be shielded from wind and the vessel should be stabilized and not hand held so as to avoid ripples that would prevent a usable focal point.

In pursuit of my project I decided to stabilize the lid using a screwdriver. I inverted the lid and placed a long screwdriver shaft through the middle and then taped the edge of the lid to the screwdriver handle. Then I planted the blade of the screwdriver into the ground like a stake. The tilt of the lid provided a hollow in which I poured water to effectively create a lens. Below the cup I located the focal point by placing my hand into the light cast to determine the smallest point of light and feel the heat that it generated. The best time for this effort is at noon when the sun is at it’s highest point in the sky.

I find that my favorite tinder for solar firecraft is dark compressed dry fiber because dark material absorbs heat better, the fibrous material allows air flow, the compressed material transfers the heat and provides a surface upon which to focus whereas light cannot focus on fluffy material. Strangely enough, dry horse manure tinder works well for this.

I placed the tinder at the focal point and shortly thereafter a wisp of smoke began to appear. As I waited for that moment I happened to notice a piece of charred wood close by. Knowing the dark and carbonized nature of this material I broke off a small piece and placed it on the tinder with the edge at the focal point. This expedited the formation of the coal which I in turn blew into a flame.

Once you become more familiar with water lenses it’s amazing what things you will begin to recognize as viable vessels for solar firecraft. Who knew that fast food trash could be used to generate a fire?!

However, in the spirit of survival, and by the mandate “what can you do with what you have?”, I decided to use items that I found in the trash. I used a silverized bag from a snack food and an empty soda can. The plan was to cut open the bag and form a reflective bowl, and in the center, place a dark, heat absorptive soda can in which to heat water. The day was hot and I began with room temperature water. I used a P38 can opener to create a hinged lid on top of the soda can for potential food access that was kept closed while cooking. As shown in the photos, the exterior and interior temperatures exceeded 150 degrees F. in about an hour.

I often keep packets of flavoring from Top Ramen meals to create a nice bullion soup. Another benefit of solar cooking is that you can pasteurize water to kill germs and disease-carrying organisms. Heat the water to at least 150 degrees F. (65 degrees C.) and keep it at that temperature or above for at least 30 minutes. The important thing is to keep reflectors focused while the sun changes position, and if possible, insulate the setup from wind or other cooling effects.