Awhile back I decided to make a spinner target so that it would signal a hit without having to replace a toppled can or a perforated paper target. I could open my backdoor to shoot from either inside the threshold or step out onto my porch while observing safety precautions from either position to confirm a clear down range. Although commercial spinner targets are very robust and durable when used with conventional gun ammunition, they are not needed for most BBs, small rocks, or acorns.

The materials needed to make a DIY simple spinner target are made with household items such as a metal coat hanger, tin can lids, and one and a quarter inch binder clips. The only tool needed would be a pair of pliers for bending the coat hanger.

I wanted to use different sized can lids for targets that ranged from three and a quarter inches to two inches in diameter and hung them in descending order by size. You can vary the lid size, quantity, and distance to your own liking. I bent the wire to include small “bumps” to act as barriers between each can lid with a slight sag between them that enables the cans to recenter after being hit. Then I opened a binder clip over the wire and clamped it onto the top edge of the can lid.

I found that sometimes a can lid may be sprung out when hit but that is the advantage of having multiple lids hanging on the coat hanger wire so you can continue practicing. Because the stones or acorns used with a slingshot have more mass, the can lids are more prone to be sprung loose.

I have had a lot of fun using the DIY simple spinner target and it has enabled me to sharpen my shooting skills. I recommend making one for your own benefit and enjoyment that will help you be better prepared.

In my youth my grandfather made for me a simple slingshot using a “Y” shaped cutting from a tree branch along with thick rubber band straps with a leather pouch. I had a lot of fun using it but never achieved critical skill for hunting.

Awhile back I found a shed antler and kept it for any future projects and it dawned on me that it could be made into a slingshot. I began by taping off the places where it needed to be cut and proceeded to use a hacksaw for that task. I also had some spare leather pieces that I used to make the pouch. What remained was the need for the straps.

In days gone by large wide rubber bands were easy to come by but these days the only ones that I could find were half the lengths that I remember. In order to get the length needed I had to “daisy chain” or loop the two rubber bands together, then using the same technique of looping I attached the ends to the pouch and antler frame.

I was eager to try it out. Without the wrist support of the modern slingshot I had to readjust my grip on the unsupported handle. My initial shots proved to be better than when I used my modern slingshot! By my third shot I was able to hit a two and a half inch can lid at seven yards! I think that a contributing factor is that I lean the frame forward as I shoot and it seems to make a notable difference. For now, this antler frame is my go-to slingshot and I am delighted at the results.

For shooting tips and inspiration you can watch “Carolina Camera: The Sling Shot Man” to witness some remarkable marksmanship.

My interest in throwing knives have come and gone over the years but recently I gained an interest in the no-spin technique. My reasoning to pursue this technique is that the point of the knife will always be pointing at the target during it’s path so even if you don’t throw it exactly right your changes of the point striking a target are greatly improved. I began to watch videos on social media and tried to take mental notes on technique then I would try to apply them in practice.

The method of no-spin throwing is not natural for me and is quite different than the spin-throw method. You begin by placing your forefinger on the spine of the knife blade and “pinch” lightly the handle with your thumb and side of your middle finger. The butt of the handle for me rests in the middle of the palm of my hand.

To begin the throw you raise the knife above head height and slightly to the rear then cast forward while at the same time keeping the knife upright as you throw forward. The knife sort of slips from your hand as you throw it forward and make sure that your forefinger slides down the top of the handle as you release it. The duration of that contact with your forefinger inhibits the rotation of the knife and can be adjusted for the target’s distance.

It’s best to begin throwing at a target at a close distance and as you get comfortable begin to back away slowly, adjusting to that new distance before backing away further.

I initially used a wood pallet as my target but it had slits between the boards and so occasionally the knife would pass through them. In addition, the grain of the wood would be resistant to being stuck with the knife so if not perfectly thrown the knife would just bounce off.

After watching a number of videos I observed that many of the throwers had made a throwing target board composed of 4×4 wood blocks mounted like a checker board with the end grain sides mounted facing outward that better receives the knife points so I decided to make one for myself.

I did some math and decided to cut up 2 eight foot 4×4 timbers into 4″ long pieces which I arranged into a 7×7 block pattern minus the four corners. The timbers were treated lumber so I’m letting them dry a little before adhering them together on a plywood board that can be mounted on a tree, fence, or stand. The photo illustrates what the finished target will look like.

Now, after many throws, I am starting to get the feel of this technique and having more successful throws. It’s a little addictive like throwing horse shoes or darts and combines a special skill with pleasure and satisfaction.

There are only three components to constructing a Shepard’s Staff Sling: a pole, cordage, and a pouch. I felled some saplings that were about as thick as the diameter of a fifty cent piece and cut a five foot length. I had some 550 paracord that I used for straps and a piece of leather scrap that I cut into shape and punched holes for the attachment of the cordage to form a pouch. The top two inches of the staff was trimmed to reduce it’s diameter by about 3/8 inch that resembled a peg when completed. A second 3/8 inch groove was cut three inches below that. The first length of paracord was fastened around this groove and the second length was tied in a loop using a bowline knot that loosely slipped over the top peg portion.

I found that a stone about the size of a tennis ball worked best for me but larger stones can be thrown as well. Rounded stones work best. The action of throwing the stone reminds me of how a lure is cast using a fishing rod: the timing of release is critical but is learned from practice. Another helpful tip is to focus on your target and all of your muscle motor memory will cooperate to deliver the stone to the target. This method works well for anyone who has shoulder injury limitations.

I can see where developing the launching and targeting skills can be addicting and is a lot of fun to learn!

I was introduced to “hawks” at a Boy Scout camp when I served as an assistant Scout Master where I hung out in the “Mountain Man” area. It seemed like such a manly thing to throw hawks at the thick slices of pine log targets. It was quite addictive.

Several years ago I visited Turtle Island Preserve where I began to occasionally teach classes and do survival skill demonstrations. During an open house event I met Justin Burke who has since then opened a blacksmith business. A few years ago I made a trade with him for a throwing tomahawk. It has beautiful craftsmanship and throws wonderfully. Recently I acquired a second “multi-purpose” hawk from him that includes a hammer portion and he asked me to “try it out”, hence this article.

I started my tests by throwing the hawk into a pine log target. I decided to throw both of my hawks in order to compare them. I threw my original hawk and stuck it on the first try. When I threw the new hawk I discovered that it was a little heavier and would spin slightly slower so I backed up a couple of feet to find it’s range and then stuck it on the third try. The photo shows my results. They both throw wonderfully.

Then I set out to chop and split wood in the same manner as a hatchet. I initially choked up on the handle a little but as I grew comfortable with chopping I held it lower toward the end to feel the difference. It worked as well but “the jury’s out” on which position I’ll like best. I chopped both seasoned wood and a sapling. The wood chips really flew fast. I took a split seasoned log and easily reduced it down to kindling.

Finally I got some nails to drive in some lumber using the hammer end. Again, with a little handling adjustment for the longer handle the nails yielded to the hawk very well. The linear motion of the head made smooth strokes with a solid hit.

I’m delighted with this style tomahawk. I imagine that a slight “V” cut on the inner blade might facilitate pulling nails but a tomahawk isn’t meant to be a carpentry tool per se. I appreciate the quality of workmanship produced by my friend Justin Burke. You can visit his webpage at https://www.facebook.com/JustinBurkeTraditionalCraftsman and perhaps begin your own venture into the legacy and skills of the tomahawk.

– As a support: It stabilizes you as you ascend or descend. It also provides relief from weight on an injured foot or leg as you walk.

– As an extension: You can reach high for fruit or nuts in a tree or extend it out as an assist when helping someone up a hillside or river bank.

– As a weapon: A deterrent to both man and beast. It can be used either to poke or strike and in the cases of snakes, to pin down or re-direct if needed.

– As a compass: It can be used in the “shadow stick” method. On a sunny day post the stick upright in the ground and place a stone at the tip of the stick’s shadow every 15 minutes. The stones will line up in an West-to-East line.

– As an estimating tool: Used to reference the distance or height and transfer it to the adjoining ground so that it can be measured. See the article “Stick Method for Width and Height Estimation”

– As a scepter: for those who are endowed with a robust self image.

You may have seen these sticks on the trail or at events adorned with stickers, buttons, ribbons, carvings, wrist straps, compasses or whistles. There’s no limit on ways to customize them, but woe to the person who forgets it behind on the trail. As for me, a simple stick will do.