I was asked to try a fixed blade to see how I might like it as an alternative to my current knives and what would be the features that I would like to see. I said I would like a thick spine with a wide portion of blade for battoning/chopping, a full tang, a non slip grip , a socket in the handle for bow & spindle firecraft, a 90 degree edge for striking ferro rods, and the blade made of carbon steel for flint & steel fire making. The HWS fixed blade knife fulfilled my requirements and I began to put it to the test.

I had to get used to wearing the HWS as my other knives were carried differently. The HWS rides high on my belt but has the advantage of being easily concealed if needed. Because of the high mount I was able to be seated in a car seat or chair but I could also feel the handle against my ribs. The Kydex sheath is very durable but I might explore other options than the leather loops for attachment to my belt. It would also be nice if a ferro rod would be integrated. The Mycarta handle has positive grip even when wet. It also has a 1/2″ hole at the end of the handle that can be used to attach a lanyard but is large enough for straightening arrow shafts for primitive archery enthusiasts.

I began to use it for chopping wood but at 8 oz. I found it to be light in weight. Chopping wood using a 4 1/2″ blade with a total length of 8 3/8″ is asking a lot but with persistence it can be used on moderate to small branches and sticks. It works best to use a wide angle approach when chopping.

The hefty blade worked wonderfully when using baton sticks. It was limited only by it’s length but it is very sturdy. Once the wood had been split down I was able to make fuzz sticks by making successively higher cuts along the wood’s edge using the thumb of my opposing hand across the top of the blade to control each cut. I found that a thicker blade works a little differently but with a little adjustment it definitely works. I then wanted to use the HWS features for my firecraft endeavors.

I grabbed a piece of flint and some char cloth. I began to use the back side of the blade to strike the edge of the flint and the initial sparks looked promising but successive sparks were harder to achieve. I was able to catch sparks on the charcloth and join it to some tinder to make a fire. Although dedicated strikers make better sparks they weren’t made to do all that the HWS can do.

It seems that any manufactured edge needs to be ruffed up a bit to be effective. that also goes for a new ferro rod. The flint striking helped to make the top of the blade more aggressive for using with a ferro rod. After several strikes I could throw some sparks and I found the sweet spot for striking to be toward the tip on the backside that gave the easiest and best sparks.

I grabbed my bow & spindle kit and began to use the socket in the knife handle as a bearing block. When in use by the left hand the blade is positioned facing outward, away from the user. The socket is a little shallow compared to a regular bearing block but then the socket in the handle is a bonus feature and not a dedicated part of a specific bow & spindle kit.

The HWS is a very dependable fixed blade knife. It feels comfortable in the hand and can perform a multitude of bushcraft tasks. All told I was impressed with this knife and it’s craftsmanship by Kellershop Knives.

Occasionally in social media I’ve seen what looks like a three person hammock which piqued my interest but in fact it is a suspended tent that is officially described as a “three-person all-season suspended camping tree house tent”. It is basically a three anchor point triangular canvas covered with an integrated mosquito net canopy. It comes with an optional rain tarp.

I wondered what it would be like to spend a night in one with two other adults, thus testing the advertised three person capacity. As it happens, some friends of mine own one and had it set up. With their permission I was able to share an overnight experience with my two adult sons.

The entry is very unique. You can enter it from below via a zippered triangular hatch in the center. This reminded me of my Hennessey Hammock that uses a Velcroed slit for entry. In addition there are three zippered panels available for entry or egress on the sides of the roomy mosquito net canopy.

After all three of us entered the tree tent it seemed that one end of the triangular canvas floor was a little high, so we tried to correct it. The tree tent is suspended using ratcheted straps. We maxed out the tension on the lower end, and we lowered the anchor strap with a little slack on the high end. We felt that it became more comfortable but may have contributed to the ensuing bowl phenomena that we experienced that night.

The somewhat flat surface of the tarp reminded me of a trampoline but it had less support points on the perimeter so it was more flexible and as we entered the tent it would sag in the middle. When I brought in my gear it would slide toward the entry point.

When two persons share a double hammock there is unavoidable major bodily contact but with the large tree tent canvas I thought that this might be avoided but no such luck. It became apparent as we gathered inside that in order to have personal space we had to lay with our feet to the center and heads at the outward points of the triangular canvas. There is an integrated strap at each point so it is uncomfortable to lay in the center of these areas. The outward edges between the anchor points were unusable as we were inclined to roll laterally inward.

In an effort to not disturb my sons by touching their feet that night I ended up in a fetal position in my corner taking occasional stretches. I was pleased that whenever one of us would shift our sleeping position during the night the resulting shaking was surprisingly minimal. Because we had warm weather we did not feel cold from below that night. We used our sleeping bags only as blankets and realized that we would have slid inward if we had slept in them. Perhaps this problem might have been different using other anchor points and mounting adjustments.

My opinion is that this is a novelty item that is best used for semi-permanent camps or back yard setups. It definitely favors being a tent vs. a hammock. It became evident that my expectation of a hammock was in error but sharing a warm Summer night together with my sons made this a rewarding experience.

After debriefing my friends the next morning they are considering moving the tree tent to a more suitable area with even spaced trees which may make for better anchoring and more even tensioning. If they do, we have been invited to try another overnight hang to help evaluate what they hope will be a more comfortable experience.

My friends who owned the tree tent invited me back to try it out after they had tightened it up according to the manufacturer’s instructions and it was more comfortable. I tested it with only one other available adult instead of having my two sons with me but it did exhibit more pronounced laying areas along the sides as apposed to our use of the the corners of the triangular canvas. The bottom line is that a hammock and a tree tent are two different structures and therefore they are set up differently. I had applied my hammock experience to a tree tent when I had adjusted it but apparently that led to my overnight comfort demise. So, lesson learned. Hammocks and tree tents are set up differently and each one offers a different lounging experience.

I was sent a PDF copy to review before it was published. For me, reading is a laborious task and I’ve always been a visually oriented person, having a career as a corporate photopgrapher, videographer, and web master, but once I started to read this book I was captivated from the start. The author, Ronald B. Housel, has an easy-to-read writing style that got me hooked from the start and his passion for his craft held my interest throughout it’s 14 chapters.

And what a diversity of topics! It is a very complete work from a very experienced hunter that not only inspires want-to-be turkey hunters to pursue this field but also has many helpful insights for those seasoned hunters that want to continue honing their skills. The recipes are mouth-watering and the candid stories at the end had me rolling with laughter. I would recommend this book to any hunter who is contemplating or actively engaged in the pursuit of the elusive wild turkey.

You can learn more about The Black Ghosts of Autumn and the author Ronald B. Housel on Facebook.

- Road Specific Tools -
Jumper Cables x 1, 9 Foot Tow Rope x 1, Tire Pressure Gauge x 1, Glassbreaker/Seatbelt Cutter Tool x 1, Reflective Warning Triangle x 1, Reflective Safety Vest x 1

- Other Tools -
Flashlight x 1, Fire Starter Flint x 1, Emergency Whistle x 1

- General Supplies -
Bungee Cords x 3, Cable Ties x 15, PVC Tape x 1, Gloves with grippers x 1, Rain Poncho x 1, Light Sticks x 2, Long Candle x 1

- First Aid Kit -
Gauze Pads x 4, Band-Aids x 20, Alcohol Prep Pad x 6, Tourniquet x 1, Antiseptic Wipes x 4, Scissors x 1, First-Aid Tape x 1, Metal Tweezers x 1, Mylar Blanket x 1, Elastic Bandage (small) x 1, Elastic Bandage (large) x 1, PVC Gloves x 1, Triangle Bandage x 1, Cotton Balls x 5, Safety Pins x 6

Here are some of my observations, opinions, and suggestions:
– Both zippered bags can be used as another resource for improvising.
– The roadside kit’s zippered bag has reflective tape on it’s sides and can be used at night time in conjunction with the Reflective Warning Triangle.
– The multi-tool is actually a knife that is similar to a Swiss Army Knife® with eleven different blades/tools, not to be confused with a Leatherman® or Gerber® multi-tool.
– Some items such as the towing strap can be stored in a seal-able plastic bag to keep contained and easily viewed for their use.
– As illustrated in the photo, the towing strap actually works… adequate for pulling a vehicle out of a slick mud spot or across the yard but perhaps not for more vigorous towing.

This kit is a huge resource for a variety of needs but I would like to suggest a few more items that could be added to the kit:
– Small roll of Duct tape, Notepad, Pencil/Pen, travelers tissues or toilet paper, flintwheel lighter, space blanket.

If you’ve ever tried to build an emergency kit or go-bag you probably noticed how expensive it is to buy it’s individual elements. In addition, finding an adequate container for it all can be a challenge and add to the expense. What amazes me is that all of the items listed above fits in such a compact package and for a very reasonable price. However I have wonderful news! At the time of this review, Survival Hax has offered for my readers an incredible discount of $25.00 off of your order!!

Normally my reviews are just for informational purposes but I consider this kit in conjunction with this discount offer to be an outstanding value. You may want to consider purchasing kits for all of your vehicles or as gifts for your loved-ones. This kit goes a long ways in helping you to be prepared for roadside or other unexpected emergencies.

As for the $25 OFF discount code, Survival Hax has provided these instructions:
1. Go to Amazon.com
2. Search for “survival hax roadside kit”
3. Add the ‘Roadside Emergency Kit with Jumper Cables’ to your shopping cart and then checkout.
4. On the last screen where it says “enter a discount or promo code” use discount code OFROAD50

I received a tactical flashlight from Survival Hax for the purpose of evaluation and review. This rather small flashlight (just over five inches long) has some big features. At first glance you might notice it’s aggressive appearance with a knurled handle for a positive grip. A focusable thousand lumen beam is located at the head while the button power-switch is located at the end. The flashlight case is constructed of aircraft grade aluminum and is crash, pressure, and water resistant.

The power is provided by interchangeable sources. The primary power source is a rechargeable 3.7 volt lithium battery and the secondary power option is an adapter that holds three AAA batteries. This adapter is a great provision as AAA batteries are generally accessible from any grocery or convenience store and enables you to stock up and carry extra batteries when operating in off-grid situations.

Then there’s the integrated electronics that provides five lighting modes: Low, Medium, High, Strobe, and SOS. Each mode is accessed by a full or half click of the switch. I discovered a slight inconvenience that once you click the flashlight off it advances to the next mode so that when relit you may have to cycle through to access your preferred mode. The rechargeable battery will last three hours on high and five and a half hours on low. I imagine that the strobe mode would use even less power but would be aggravating to use but could extend the battery life in a pinch.

The head of the flashlight uses a convex lens as part of it’s focusing capability. I took off the retaining ring, removed the lens, and held it curved side toward the sun and about an inch over some crushed dark dry leaves and created a coal that I coaxed into a flame. Next, I removed the battery and took some fine steel wool and stretched it out to touch each end. After a few attempts the steel wool sparked sufficiently to ignite a paper towel. Then by using one of the alternate power AAA batteries I was able to make a flame by connecting each end using a thin hourglass shaped foil gum wrapper.

These are just three benefits outside of the flashlight’s intended use. Because of it’s rugged construction I would imagine that it would also make a formidable self-defence weapon. Although the tactical flashlight comes with an attached wrist strap it unfortunately was too small for my hand to fit through it.

The Survival Hax Tactical Flashlight is a solid tool that is easily stored in a glove compartment, backpack or pocket and weighs only a third pound. It’s good to know that it has these multiple capabilities that can be used in various survival scenarios. For more information on Survival Hax’s Tactical Flashlight you can visit their website at https://survivalhax.com/products/tactical-led-flashlight .

1 Waterproof EDC container
1 Paracord
3 Fishing lines
2 x Hooks
2 x Weights
2 x Floaters
2 x Sinkers
2 x Swivels
1 Knife
1 Tinder cotton
1 Ferrocerium rod
2 Safety Pins
1 cable saw
1 Whistle
1 Carabiner

I decided to take this PSK to a private pond to see what it could do. Knowing that it had fishing gear I decided to use the cable saw to cut a fishing pole from a nearby sapling. Although I chose to just hold ends of the saw in each hand it could be implemented with toggles at each end or affixed to a curved branch to make a bow saw. I found that the cable should be kept under a ninety degree bend for best cutting results. It did a great job of cutting my pole.

 
The hooks and line came in three parts: 12 feet of just line and two 12 foot lengths with hooks attached. The single line unwrapped easily but the lines with hooks became tangled and took some time to untangle before I could use them but no matter how long that took they were vital parts for fishing so definitely worth the effort. I attached one of the hook lines to the end of the fishing pole, attached a worm and began to fish. I caught a bass!

I decided to try and make a fire with the ferrocerium rod and used the saw/knife blade as a striker. I gathered some dry fluffy weeds for tinder but was unable to get a flame. Then I remembered the tinder cotton and fluffed out one end. It caught the sparks immediately and I had a fire going right away.

I was able to cut a fishing pole, attach a line and hook (and caught a fish!), and built a fire upon which I could cook. The paracord and cable saw could have been used to construct a shelter. I was impressed that a kit so small had so much to offer in providing food and shelter in a survival situation.

Click HERE for more information about this EDC Keychain. Survival Hax is offering a discount to my readers so if you decide to purchase one (or more) be sure to use the promotional code EDCKEY50 on the checkout screen.

The first thing that I examined was the LED light. It was surprisingly bright. It uses button batteries that are stored within the head portion. To turn the light on you twist the head clock-wise and tighten it down. The connection was quite loose so I got some Teflon tape and made a wrap around the threads that snugged it up so that it wouldn’t unscrew and accidentally come off as so many of my mini lights have done in the past. The Teflon tape also acted as a moisture barrier. If the light is lightly tightened it can be turned on by just pressing it downward and could be used to send Morse Code signals by tapping with your thumb.

Next I examined the glass breaker. At first glance you might mistake it for being the pen tip but it is much wider with a more robust tip. A few days later I went to an auto junk yard and got permission to test the glass breaker on a car window. The window was penetrated instantly and easily when struck. The glass breaker portion covers the pen portion and is unscrewed and removed to reveal the pen.

The pen’s ferrel portion located above the pen tip is ringed with concentric grooves so it stays in position between your fingers as you write and is quite comfortable. The cone shaped transition piece between the ferrel and point can be removed in order to replace the ink pen cartridge.

Just above the pen is the junction to the knife blade. Just screw off the lower glass breaker/pen assembly and withdraw the blade. It too was a little loose so I put some Teflon tape there too. It is one and a half inches long with a sharp straight edge on one side and a serrated edge on the opposite side. The point of the blade has a swedge or false edge that allows it to have good penetration when thrusted. The knife blade was quite sharp and the serrated edge worked well when cutting cordage and other items.

Another feature of the pen is a strong clip that keeps the pen secure whether clipped inside a pocket or on a lanyard.

The Tactical LED Pen when fully assembled doubles as a Kubotan and can be used as a self defense weapon. Self defense methods using this are best learned from professionals before engaging this way.

I was very impressed with this Tactical LED Pen and it has become my new Every Day Carry (EDC) buddy. Click HERE for more information.

I received the Survival Shovel in just a few days and I immediately opened the shipping box. The product box is labeled “survival shovel”, “folding shovel with pick axe, saw and fire starter”. I eagerly opened it and withdrew the contents. The shovel comes in a pouch that measures roughly seven by ten inches with a total weight of two pounds. I removed the shovel from the pouch and saw that it comes in two parts; the shovel head assembly that included a short handle and a handle extension that screws into it. The un-assembled shovel measures eight and a half inches in length. The extension handle was so smooth that I initially had a little difficultly attaching it but finally accomplished the connection.

By loosening the bright orange collar (a good identifier when laid on the ground) you can extend the shovel blade and pick. Once oriented into your desired position it is re-tightened for secure operation. When the shovel blade is extended 180 degrees the total length is two feet. If the shovel blade and pick are extended to the 90 degree level it measures seventeen inches. I was impressed with the quality of production and the solid feel in my hand.

The pick side is used to break up hard soil which is then scraped together with the shovel blade for removal. When soil or debris is soft the blade alone can be used. One interesting feature of the shovel blade is that it has a serrated edge on one side. This design element was included to enable it to cut away brush or make kindling. I was able to cut through a half-inch sapling but the thick paint coating on the blade limited it’s effectiveness. In lieu of a knife, notches could be made in wood for construction purposes of camp-craft. I also used the shovel to trim my gravel driveway and was pleasantly surprised at it’s effectiveness by alternating the pick and shovel blades. I did notice that when I used the serrated side of the blade in the pick axe configuration the handle would tend to unscrew and occasionally needed tightening but when striking with the center or left side of the blade there was no issue.

The third component of this survival shovel is a ferrocerium rod that is fastened inside the end cap of the handle extension. The end-cap is knurled so it is easy to remove. In my opinion this is a bonus element of the shovel but not the main function. Because of the robust paint job on the shovel the edges of the blade were blunt and I was unable to use it to make a spark from the ferro rod initially. It takes a sharp edge to scrape a ferro rod in order to get a spark. Because I was determined to have success at making a fire I scraped the paint off the blade edge by scraping the blade on a rock. Because ferro rods can be brittle I held the knob in one hand while laying the rod flat on a stump for support, then gave it a glancing blow with the blade using the other hand and eventually produced a spark that was caught on some cattail fluff and nursed into a flame. If you had a knife or sharp rock they would be easier to use as a striker but having a handy ferro rod stored in the handle is a good idea.

I give this survival shovel a thumb’s up for it’s sturdy construction and effectiveness as a compact trowel and pick axe. This would be a great addition to your vehicle’s emergency kit and as a camping tool for trenching as needed. Survival Hax offers more outdoor and survival products and is worth visiting them online.

My source for purchase was on ebay. It was manufactured overseas and shipped from Chino California. I mention this for folks who are conscientious about their choice of manufactured goods and their origin. It shipped immediately and arrived 11 days later in North Carolina. It cost less than $16 with free shipping and handling.

Once it arrived it was like Christmas morning! I opened up the package and was impressed with the compact dimensions. I quickly assembled the kit to get the full effect of it’s clever design.

The next step was to try it out and experience it’s function in action. I have reviewed a different wood burning camp stove in a previous article entitled “Review – TrailStove“. It’s primary advantage over this stove is a side hole that allowed fuel to be added as needed without lifting the cooking vessel. However, this stove’s benefits are that it is a gasifier for more efficient combustion and that it collapses into a very small size for storage and transport. To sustain a fire during the cooking process the pot can be lifted momentarily as needed to add fuel. Another interesting feature of this stove is the adjustable pot supports on top; they can fold out to accommodate larger pots or folded inward to support a metal cup. It comes in a nice net bag that can isolate any soot when packed.

My next action is to acquire a stainless steel pot with lid that this stove can nest inside for storage. I certainly give this a ‘thumbs-up” on my initial inspection and operation. this might just be the best fit for your backpack, Bug Out Bag, or emergency car kit.

In my efforts toward preparedness, some time ago I began to assemble my BOB (Bug-Out-Bag) and learned that it was strategic to pack items that could serve more than one function in order to save weight and space. With this strategy in mind, the “warm it up” lantern gained my interest for preparedness because it provides both light AND heat. So, I began to test the lanterns’ capability.

Hurricane style lanterns are built to shield the flame inside and come with a vented cap on the top. The “warm it up” lantern has a removable cap that can be exchanged with a bracket that holds cups above it to capture the heat from the flame below. The kit comes with 2 stacking aluminum cups that include a lid… similar to a double boiler used in cooking on a stove. The lower aluminum cup holds 1 3/4 cups when used alone, and 1 1/4 cups when used in conjunction with the upper cup. The upper cup holds 1 1/4 cups.

I read the instructions provided with the kit. First, I attached the stabilizing feet (optional hold-down pins included) onto the bottom of the tank, swapped out the lantern cap with the bracket, then I filled the fuel tank with 1 pint of lantern oil. Then, I adjusted the wick to about 1/16th inch above the frame plate, lit it, and let it warm for about 5 minutes. Then, I adjusted the wick up to create a flame that stood about 3/4 inch high. It was quite bright, and probably larger than I would usually use because a smaller flame will consume less fuel. A flame adjusted too high will cause sooting on the chimney and cup. I filled the larger cup with room temperature water and placed it on the bracket with no lid. This table shows the heating results.
 

 
I burned the lamp for 2 consecutive evenings logging in 8 hours. In the interest of estimating the burn time, I removed the remaining fuel and saw that it used less than a cup of fuel. Based on the volume and time already spent, I estimate that the total burn time would be 20 hours per tank. A smaller flame could dramatically extend this time.

I am DELIGHTED with the “warm it up” lantern. Imagine having a power outage and still being able to have light in the dark and have a hot meal too! I have chosen to add this to the Survivaltek Store where you can purchase this and other survival related items.