Because of the oily nature of birch bark I have demonstrated In the past it’s ability to be doused in water, wiped off, then easily lit with a flame, but now I wanted to put it to the test in building a camp fire.

I approached a near-by river birch tree and carefully removed a few pieces of it’s flaking bits of bark. Then I began to search for small thin dead branches among trees above the ground hoping to find dryer material but everything was still wet. On some of the larger dead branches the outer wet bark was easily removed which exposed a dryer core.

I found a rock upon which I began to build a lean-to fire-lay starting with a portion of the birch bark, then the smallest branches were placed over it with consecutively larger ones above those. The remaining birch bark piece I lit with a lighter then placed that on top of the initial birch bark base.

The birch bark tinder produced a sustained flame that was able to ignite the damp branches above it. I added more branches as the fire began to grow. In the end I achieved a very usable campfire that could be sustained for the evening.

This knowledge of birch bark as tinder could be crucial in wet circumstances and especially in an emergency scenario.

Processing the plant for fibers was a new task for me. After stripping off the leaves I found that bending the stalk to break the core in order to release the fibers to be rather difficult. After several attempts I finally found an effective approach.

I would bend the first three inches at the base of the stalk to use as a handle, then lay it over the top of a rounded edge such as a bar, broom handle, dowel, or branch.

With one hand I pull the base downward while at the same time placing the thumb of the other hand on top side of the stalk to ensure contact with the rounded edge. The stalk would flatten and split evenly the entire length.

Then at the base I could lift off the outer layer and place my thumbnail under it and slide up the stalk. By working carefully I could separate the entire length.

Having now gathered the fiber material I look forward to using it for future projects that I will be happy to share.

I prepared the spindle by carving a rounded blunt end for the hearthoard and at the other end I cut a 3/4″ long dowel shape just small enough to fit the drill chuck.

What enabled my success is applying the same techniques used with a bow. A long spindle enables better control. Developing proper char requires a moderate speed. A fast speed will burn or blacken the char which means that it is spent and unable to sustain an ember. A dark coffee ground color, not black, is your goal.

Combined with a moderate speed is a downward pressure to enhance friction. The goal is to build a small pile of char where heat can build. Once smoke appears, the pressure and speed needs to be sustained a little longer to make sure that the char is ignited within, then the spindle can be removed to confirm that the smoke continues to emerge from the pile.

I have found that some woods used for hearthboards might heat fast but can cool fast just as easily so a gentle waving of your hand over the coal can allow the internal temperature to increase without cooling it out.

This method is not really practical but any time that a fire can be achieved by a firecrafter, it is a rewarding experience and adds another skill in the craft.

Honing differs from sharpening in that honing re-aligns the cutting edge of a blade vs. using an abrasive to remove material to re-establish an edge due to chips, dents, or just being worn from use.

It is said that “a sharp knife is a safe knife” because it is predictable in it’s cutting action and requires less pressure to use. When stroking the edge you might want to pinch the wind screen to prevent the striker wheel from rolling. It’s the static knurled wheel that straightens the steel edge.

I always carry a lighter and a knife and so whether I’m in the field or traveling about I am able to maintain a sharp edge on my knife.

In keeping with the idea of using a wrist mounted reflector, I wondered if a concave watch face would work so I began a search for one and found one.

As usual, the size of an optical device can make a huge difference in results. A watch face is relatively small but under full sunlight it can successfully create an ember.

While using a reflector solar device, be sure to point it directly at the sun. If a small reflector is used it might need to be slightly offset so your tinder will not block the sun.

You can determine the focal point of the sun’s rays by placing your finger above the reflecting surface and raise it or lower it to observe where the light is aimed and how broad or narrow is the beam. The smallest point of light is the hot spot where your tinder should be held.

As with all optical methods it is best to select dark material for tinder and if it is fiberous, pinch it tight to create a flat surface on which to focus as there is no focus on fluff. The condensed material also transfers heat and helps to create a coal.

In the photo I wore the watch on my wrist to illustrate the possible use and method of a bracelet to light fire during a Mayan ceremony. However, I found that using the watch in hand was more convenient. I’m happy to say that my solar experiment was successful.

Acquiring clear ice is the challenge. The first time that I made fire from ice I bought an ice block from a dispenser and then cut, shaved, and formed a lens using a pruning saw. My warm hands smoothed the surface.

I always had trouble trying to create clear ice at home. I was able to find clear ice at a nearby stream where I fashioned a nice lens but the same weather under which the ice formed was also cloudy and prevented the solar capability of sunshine.

While surfing the web I saw an advertisement for a clear ice making device for beverages that could make a sphere. I have used a glass sphere as a lens to make fire and so decided to acquire the ice maker so that I could demonstrate this remarkable fire craft method.

I acquired the clear ice kit and was happy with the resulting sphere. As I rubbed it in my hand the frosty surface became clear and usable.

Here are some observations and suggestions when using ice.

– Once the ice is exposed to sunlight it will begin to melt so the ice will begin to shrink and drip. Prop your tinder at the edge of an elevated support so water drops will miss the tinder and not pool next to it.

– While holding the ice lens be careful to allow full exposure to the sun’s rays to maximize the effectiveness of the focal point on the tinder.

– As with all optical methods it is best to select dark material for tinder and if it is fiberous, pinch it tight to create a flat surface on which to focus as there is no focus on fluff. The condensed material also transfers heat and helps to create a coal.

My next goal is to cut the ice sphere in half to increase the focal distance. It will be fun to have this capability for my personal use as well as the ability to demonstrate to others.

NOTE: Size/diameter makes a difference in an optical tool. Using a 2″ ice lens is difficult to ignite tinder. I used some charcloth with my tinder successfully. A 5″ ice lens for example would not require that advantage. Also, make sure that the skies are clear before you venture out to use this method.

The two native stones most often used in North Carolina where I live is ryolite and quartz. Of course flint is a preferred material but when flint knapping I often practiced using the glass bottoms of beer bottles which prompted me to consider a ceramic alternative for use with a steel striker.

I think it occurred to me when we had a small kitchen accident where a Corell Ware bowl broke and as I picked up the pieces I knew that I had to try it. Sure enough I was able to catch a spark on a piece of char.

I wanted to demonstrate this at some classes so I searched for this vintage China at yard sales, thrift shops, and antique emporium and was able to acquire a number of pieces.

It’s fun to explore new materials and see the surprise on observers faces when doing demonstrations. It’s also nice to expand my knowledge on usable materials that can be used in a pinch.

I have seen a number of posts on social media where cordage has been made from plastic beverage bottles. By creating a jig from wood that incorporates a knife blade, a plastic bottle can be cut into a thin ribbon that spirals the circumference along the length of the bottle. I wondered if that plastic ribbon could be used as cordage for a bow.

I made a jig, made the plastic “cord”, and found it to be strong but slippery and unweildy. My plan was to make an Egyptian Style Bow with a knot around the middle of the spindle with cordage wound above and below it. This method does not depend on friction to spin the spindle but just unwraps and rewraps with each stroke of the bow.

Because the ribbon was unwieldy, I cut slots at each end of the bow that were perpendicular to the bend, tying one end into a fat knot and wrapped the other end around the handle to allow for adjustable tension.

As I stroked the bow back and forth it performed beautifully and I brought the resulting char to a smoldering ember.

As mentioned above there are many materials used for cordage but now you know of yet another resource should others be scarce or not available.

I was unable to acquire the large ball bearings needed to accomplish this feat and so resigned it to my bucket list. However recently I viewed a video that showed the use of a hammer, aluminum foil, a very rusty disc, and a treated cloth used as tinder to recieve the sparks.

In pursing this method I tried striking foil on top of various rusty items without success. I finally contacted my mechanic friend and asked him if he had any scrap brake rotors that were rusty and fortunately was able to acquired some.

At first I tried to strike the rusty flat disc surface with a ball peen hammer using the flat end but had almost no sparks. Then I used the ball peen end and had better results. Then it dawned on me that the teacher demos used 2 ball bearings for a reason that the curved surfaces provided a single point of contact for effective kinetic energy transfer so I chose to strike the “hat” portion of the rotor that had a curved surface and “presto”! Great sparks were achieved.

To capture the sparks I applied a spirit accelerant to a cloth and layed it next to the metal surface that I was striking. When attempting this it is important to exercise caution as the accelerant can be quite volatile so a pair of tongs can be useful to remove the ignited tinder to a safe place and enabling a way to smother it out for additional safety.

So now you know a another method to create a fire that would make MacGyver proud and might be needed in an emergency situation.

The cotton fiber strands run parallel while having compressed “ribs” that create a convenient square shape with a straight edge. Having a straight edge is desirable for a controlled flame.

I modified the can’s lid and bent the edges down to create a small “table” inside the can to press against the wick to hold it in place.

Something else that I found helpful is how to lite the wick. Once a wick is dipped in oil it can be difficult to lite. If the edge can be squeezed to shed excess oil, wood ash or charcoal carbon can be applied as a catalyst to recieve the ignition flame more quickly.

Once lit, I enjoyed the flame for a couple of hours before needing to adjust the wick.