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Four Concrete Block Rocket Stove

Ken — Sat, 24 Dec 2016 12:00:17 +0000

There have been a number of rocket stoves featured on various social media websites including different configurations using concrete blocks. One particular configuration used only four blocks that made it a very simple and inexpensive project so I decided to assemble one for myself.

This project called for three standard two-hole blocks and one mid-hole block with the single hole in the middle with open holes on each end. I went to a local hardware superstore and was surprised that they did not have the mid-hole block that I sought so I decided to buy four blocks and I would remove the outer end of one of the blocks in order to make it work. The total cost of the material was $7.03.

When I returned home I got a hammer and cold chisel and set about chipping away the outer end of one of the blocks. I tried to create a break-line along the inner edge. The concrete was resistant to chiseling so I decided to just use the hammer and chip it away in the same fashion as I would do for flint knapping. Rather than just smacking the wall mid-way I began to chip the upper edges, alternating sides and bit by bit reduced the concrete down toward the block center. I then flipped the block over and repeated the process until the wall was completely removed. Now the block was ready to assemble into the rocket stove configuration.

Click Photo To Begin Animation

The animated photo shows the sequence of assembly from the bottom to the top. Essentially the open end of the middle block enables air-flow and the ability to feed fuel as needed to the fire. The end block also provides a nice surface on which to place other cooking utensils while cooking. It is very similar to a Dakota Hole and I find that starting a fire initially is best done from the top opening. Once the fire burns down and establishes some good coals you can begin to feed the fuel from the side hole.

It is important to allow air-flow out of the top hole so whatever is placed on top must not obscure it. A gas stove burner grate placed on top would be ideal to support a pot or pan. Alternatively three stones placed around the block rim would elevate the pot or pan sufficiently. A simple metal drying rack could be used to grill meat or vegetables.

In the end this project was successful. When not in use you could use cap blocks to cover the top and put potted plants on them to make it serve another purpose and be somewhat decorative for your yard while not in use as a stove. When the power goes out this could be a real asset for boiling water and cooking your meals.

Dakota Hole Cooking

Ken — Sun, 08 Apr 2012 17:52:06 +0000

This method of cooking takes a little effort but has big advantages. While teaching a class on primitive and emergency cooking I
discussed variations in campfires and cooking hearths. While coals are preferred for direct contact cooking, flames work best when using containers such as pots, pans, and skillets. The day was breezy and we began the class by building a conventional campfire using the lean-to approach. Fortunately the breezes were light and actually enhanced the fire process. Windy weather could have made this process more difficult and certainly more dangerous. In another 45 minutes or so we would have our needed coals.

Next, we dug a Dakota Hole that consists of 2 holes about 8″ in diameter, each about 1′ deep, and separated by 10″. At the bottom of each hole a tunnel is dug to connect them. The finished Dakota Hole is “U” shaped and a fire is built in one side. The heat that is generated by the fire draws air into the other hole which begins a chimney effect and sustains the fire. Because the fire is below ground level, it is protected from windy weather and is more contained and thus safer. For persons who want their presence to be less visible, this is also a more stealthy fire. Another variation can be dug along an earthen bank, entering from the bank side and connecting with a hole dug from the top level.

After the initial campfire had burned down into a bed of coals we built the fire in the Dakota Hole. This process is quite simple and quick. You begin by placing large kindling in the hole in a funnel orientation then add smaller kindling in the middle. Place tinder on top of that then lite. It burns down nicely. Once established it can be controlled by partial closure of the air intake hole. You can place a tripod over the fire and suspend a pot for cooking. I chose to put 3 rocks around the hole’s edge to act as a trivet over which I placed a dutch oven. This orientation allows air flow with access to feed the fire with kindling.

As with all campfires, safety precautions should be observed. In addition, choose soil that is free from hummus or other ignitable material. You may want to place visual markers or a barricade around the hole to prevent accidentally stepping into it or you can temporarily place large rocks over the holes when not in use. When completely finished at the campsite, make sure the coals are completely extinguished and fill in the entire Dakota Hole.

Now is a good time to obtain a folding spade for your camping gear or Bug-Out-Bag and give this cooking fire a try.