Strikers create a spark when struck on the edge of a sharp stone due to the micro bit of shredded metal that is sheared off. The friction makes it “red hot”. Each of the metals when sheared have differing temperatures and duration of their sparks. Steel is 2500°F, titanium is 3263°F, and ferrocerium is 5430°F (hence, it’s popularity as a fire starting device).

High carbon steel strikers are the classic instrument of “flint & Steel” fire making. The method requires charcloth (carbonized cloth or other material) as a form of tinder to be used to catch it’s spark. There are a few natural materials such as chaga fungus and horse hoof fungus that will catch a spark as well. Sparks on other materials such as cattail fluff or other natural tinder have been reported to catch a spark but I have not been able to ignite them using the conventional steel strikers.

Recently I watched a video demonstrating the use of a titanium striker. Because the spark temperature of titanium is higher than that of steel it is able to ignite natural fibers known as “flash tinder” without the use of charcloth. I decided to purchase a titanium striker to experience this for myself and now it’s a new ball game! I was able to strike sparks directly into cattail fluff and created flames.

The titanium striker maintains the look and feel of the classic carbon steel striker but produces a hotter spark with a longer duration for a wider range of tinders with which to create fire. I have begun to experiment with different flash tinder and was able to create fire from cattail fluff, cotton fiber, jute fiber, and dandelion seed puffs. In the end I will have developed skill in using all three types of strikers and will be able to apply the best tool for each situation.

Charcloth is traditionally made by placing small squares of cotton material in a small metal container that is placed on coals or in a fire. It must have some minor holes or loose seams to allow pressure to be released as a result of gasification of the cotton material within during the baking process. A brown smoke is emitted for a time and when it dissipates the container is removed from the heat and allowed to cool before it is opened to reveal it’s contents.

Metal containers are used as a barrier between the cotton and fire. What if you didn’t have a metal container with which to make charcloth? I wanted to know if a different barrier could be used instead of metal and decided to try using sand as a barrier to cover a strip of cotton cloth that would be placed underneath a small campfire.

Because the season was wet I collected some sand and spread it out to dry by the sun. Then I dug a shallow trough sloping down to an inch in depth on one side and spread a layer of sand across the bottom. Next, I laid a strip of cotton jean cloth on top of that with the top end just touching the surface. I filled the trough with sand until it was level with the ground to see how char might form at different depths of coverage by the heat generated by the coals and fire above.

I built a campfire (not a bonfire) over it and let it burn for about an hour whereupon I carefully removed the coals and sand to reveal the test strip of cloth. I was surprised to find that the nearly exposed end was properly charred while deeper material was left unscathed. As a result of this finding I would just lay the cloth flat on the ground and sprinkle sand on top just enough to cover it from view. I used the charred end of my test strip to catch a spark with flint & steel to validate proper baking then proceeded to make a flame to complete the fire making process.

In the end, I found that this method might have it’s place in certain circumstances but I might prefer to use what I call the “Quickie Charcloth” method of directly burning the cotton cloth and extinguishing it before it’s consumed. This was a proof of concept exercise and validated one approach to making charcloth without a metal container. It also created a great moment of solitude by a campfire… another opportunity to enjoy the great outdoors!

Whether the steel strikes the flint or the flint strikes the steel, the sparks that are created are actually micro particles of the carbon rich steel that are “red hot” when shredded off by the percussion of striking.

In today’s modern world there are materials that are very hard that can be used instead of traditional flint. These are usually found in the form of ceramics. A common source is broken sinks or toilets that are often referred to as “john stone” or “thunder stone”. Another source is broken Corning® Dinnerware or Bakeware. These materials can be acquired in an urban environment and are occasionally used by flint knappers to hone their skills.

This alternative source was the case for me as I was assembling a DIY flint & steel kit for a friend recently. As I searched my basement for all of the kit’s components, I couldn’t find a suitable stone. I passed by my flint knapping area and noticed some Corning® pieces where I had been working on an arrowhead. I picked up a piece to test it for sparks and “presto!” it worked great! It dawned on me that I no longer had to rely on rocks for a flint to make a functional kit.

Esthetically a rock is more traditional to flint & steel firecraft but now I know that alternative materials can be used to make a fire when needed.

Making charcloth takes time and sometimes can be difficult to achieve the optimal conditions and cook-times for the best results. Like any process, consistency gives you the ability to produce predictable results which leads to perfection. I suppose that folks throughout history that used this fire method on a daily basis had the process down pat, but for those of us in the modern world who are “citified” are inconsistent in this process. However, modern technology can be our friend.

While visiting a local “flea” market I came across an electric single burner hotplate; a counter-top appliance that is typically used to percolate coffee or cook a one-pot meal. It had a rheostat to control the temperature and it dawned on me that I could use this to cook cotton fabric into charcloth. So, for two dollars, I walked away with what I hoped to be a solution to charcloth perfection, and as a bonus, no fire or coals were needed.

In a previous article “Making Charcloth” I showed how I form little cotton patch “burrito” rolls laid side-by-side inside of an Altoids tin. This is the set-up that I placed on the burner element set on “high”. At about two minutes brown smoke began to emerge. After an additional five minutes the smoke began to diminish and I pulled the tin off of the burner to cool. When I opened the tin I could see that I needed to adjust the timing slightly but still had usable charcloth. I will continue to experiment with the dynamic of temperature and time to find the right combination for optimum results.

Now I have the capability to make charcloth without the need for fire or coals and with the predictability of quality. So keep on the lookout for a single electric burner next time that you visit a flea market or yard sale so that you can produce and keep a ready supply of charcloth on hand for your next flint and steel fire.

Ferrocerium is an alloy that is softer than the carbon steel used in the traditional flint & steel fire method. What most people don’t know is that you do not need to use a metal striker to create sparks from a ferro rod. Flint rocks and similar types of glassy stones are hard enough to shred micro shards off of the softer ferrocerium metal that create the spark. The trick is to create a sharp edge for striking (or scraping). This can be accomplished by breaking one stone with another.

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When you get a chance, try some of these materials out for yourself. I would love to receive comments on other materials that you may have used as a striker to successfully start a fire with a ferro rod.

Despite the advantage that ferro rods provide, not everyone is successful or gets immediate results. Some obstacles to ignition are dampness or fineness of materials. When in the field it is wise to collect assorted tinder found along your path to help insure your “fire success” at the end of the day.

I have had the opportunity to provide demonstrations of bushcraft to various groups over the years. On one occasion during a class outing at a youth camp I had a request to demonstrate how to build a campfire using available materials. It had been raining and I only a little time to find suitable materials. It was a fail. For the next class I was determined to succeed in building a successful campfire so I brought some cattail fluff along with some flaky textured river birch bark. The birch bark provided the fine tinder to catch the flames that were produced by the ignited cattail fluff. Birch bark has the additional advantage that the oils in the bark, once lighted, will burn despite a wet and damp environment and will last long enough to get kindling on it’s way to a successful fire.

I selected a curly piece of bark that was flaky and placed a pinch of cattail fluff inside the curl. This helped to contain the cattail in place as any wind would try to break it apart. When I use a ferro rod, I hold the striker (in this case the square-edged back of my knife) next to the tinder and place the ferro rod underneath it. I pull the ferro rod up against the striker and out, thus keeping the sparks in place without disturbing the tinder. Striking down the ferro rod with a striker could potentially travel forward and strike your tinder setup as well and scatter it apart.

An alternative to river birch bark for tinder is dry leaves, whether deciduous or pine. Be sure to place some material above the cattail because it will have a very short duration flame that must be caught. Have small dry sticks handy to build upon the flames. For more pointers on building campfires, see me article “How I Build A Campfire“.

We’ve all heard about the prowess of a “one match fire”. Now you know the elements and method of a “one strike fire”. Take time to experiment with different materials so that you can achieve this goal for yourself, then teach it to others.

Most folks who demonstrate flint & steel fire making like to use jute fiber to make a flame from the glowing charcloth. It is quick and dramatic. A ball of fine natural fibers works quite well for this purpose. However, in this case, a candle is lit by igniting the vapor of super-heated wax which in turn lights the wick. In some circles of Civil War reenactors it has been a badge of pride to accomplish this skill.

In an article “Making Charcloth” I describe how to make charcloth by using small pieces of rolled up cotton fabric. I have found the finished charcloth rolls to be the key element to igniting a candle. Many flint & steel kits include candles as they are used to sustain a flame while starting a campfire and it is especially useful when using damp materials for tinder. I use a small birthday cake candle in my kit and for this candle lighting method.

The procedure I follow is to catch a spark at one end of the charcloth roll, then place the seam of the charcloth roll against the candle (to avoid unraveling) with the spark end next to the candle wick. Tilt them slightly so that the charcloth is under the wick, enabling the heat to rise up to the candle. Blow gently from the charcloth side toward the candle. As the wax melts smoke will appear and with a gentle sustained breath the vapor will eventually ignite the candle wick. Good quality charcloth will make a positive difference.

Once learned, this method has a practical application besides exhibiting your flint and steel prowess, it offers an alternative ignition source in the event that you do not have fiber available.

Carbonizing is accomplished by charring or a partial burning process. Typically small pieces of cotton (perhaps 2″ square) are placed in a covered metal container and placed over heat such as a fire or coals. The metal container must have seams or holes to release the pressure that builds up due to the gasification that occurs while the material bakes. The container prevents the material from igniting so that it is not “spent” or consumed. Different materials are popular for making charcloth: jeans, underwear, cheesecloth and gauze – all made of 100 percent cotton.

You can use small empty paint cans with a nail hole punched into the lid. The can should be turned occasionally during the baking process to evenly expose the contents inside. A very popular and portable container is an “Altoids” mint canister that is compact and requires less bake time for a finished product. I used to stack cloth squares inside these containers but battled uneven results. More recently I’ve learned to roll the cloth squares into small rolls and lay them side-by-side with very excellent results.

The general rule for cook time is to watch the emission of smoke out of the canister which should be fairly steady and when it diminishes, take the container off the heat, let cool, then open for inspection. The charred cloth should be black, not brown, and when handled should be velvety and light weight.

There is a method of making charcloth that does not require a container – it’s called “quick char” where a piece of cloth is lit directly then snuffed out once the piece turns black. There is usually enough suitable char to make a flame with tinder but baked char is thoroughly treated and even in carbon content and performs better providing that it is stored in a moisture-tight container.

After breakfast we began discussing survival basics such as the rule of 3s and survival priorities. Then we discussed edible plants, finding direction and shelters. Of course, we ended up with firecraft and we discussed the fire making categories of friction, percussion, optical and electrical. I used a broken headlamp to start a fire by the solar method. Then I showed how to use fine steel wool with a 9 volt battery to start a fire and everyone had a chance to try it for themselves. Then I showed how to use steel wool instead of charcloth to catch a spark using flint and steel, and in the end I demonstrated fire by friction using the bow and spindle method.

Recently I acquired some basswood and it is now my new best friend for fire by friction. In the last couple of weeks I’ve been able to guide several folks in accomplishing their first successful fire by friction by bow and spindle. It is such a delight to see the joy of their success. Such was the case this morning where 4 guys made their first bow and spindle fires and a young lad made his first flint and steel fire.

The program director, Matthew McNiel showed me a fire piston that he had made out of inexpensive hardware, so now it’s on my “to-do” list to accomplish. As we concluded our time, Matthew began to envision next year’s programs in which I may be able to participate. It was a great day with prospects of a great future.

I was invited by Eustace Conway, the founder, to demonstrate flint and steel fire making at this event. Flint and steel is one of many ways to make fire but was the main method for thousands of years. I personally own a striker from 3 A.D. that thrills me to own as a piece of history that I can help perpetuate through future generations.

I was able to teach a number of folk, both young and old, while giving them hands-on experience and shared in their delight as they made flint and steel fire for the first time. I was also able to demonstrate modern materials that can be used for this historic craft. You can view my video demonstrating these materials.

So, today I was honored to help people make memories of their fire making experience in a rustic setting that helps us understand and appreciate the lifestyles of our forefathers.