At one point he dispatched a thief and hoped to use his shoes but alas they were too small.
His bare feet led to major pain and injury during this ordeal.

This shoe scene took place on an unfinished floor of the Nakatomi Plaza Building that had a power saw available. He could have cut out the top of the toe area on the shoes that would in effect have converted them into sandles, allowing room for his toes and would have been a game changer in his fight against his foes.

In emergency situations where shoes are lost or left behind and alternate shoes can be found that are too small, this modification can be achieved by using a knife, hatchet, or saw.

The photo illustrates how I was able to put my 10 and a half shoe size foot into a modified 8 size shoe. I used a utility knife. It works.

Footwear like this can make a huge difference in comfort and safety in an emergency situation.

If you have a knife, you wouldn’t want to use it to dig in the dirt and make it dull. A sharp knife is very important and can be used to create other tools for a variety of purposes, in this case, for digging a hole. Holes of course might be needed to anchor posts, make trenches to divert rain water, to make Dakota hole fire pits, etc..

In the region where I live there are bamboo groves… an excellent resource for primitive projects… a virtual hardware store. However, saplings and trees are the general rule throughout the U.S. and have been used for constructing projects and crafts throughout history. In this case I used a Bowie knife to make these digging sticks but a pruning saw would have been a great asset.

A bamboo stick can be cut halfway through a single node, on opposite sides of the shaft towards each end, then split at the mid-line. This will create two scoops. I used my knife to do this and batoned it with a stout stick. The knife has a full tang so it can be struck on the end of the knife’s handle to drive the point down into the shaft to initiate the split between the two cuts. The end of the scoop can then be sharpened. To make a hand spade, include a single node to be used as a handle. When more leverage is needed, you can include more nodes for a longer handle. A single pole can thus produce both types of digging sticks.

When using a branch or sapling, you can make a cut several inches from the end and split from the end down to the cut line where is can then be sharpened. A blade shape is more effective than a round sharpened end because it allows you to scoop out the soil instead of just poking a hole into it. If the wood is green, you can harden the wood by heat treating it by a fire to eliminate the moisture.

The expression “the more you know the less you carry” applies here as you can use your primary tool to make others. As usual, I encourage you to practice now so that you will be prepared in an emergency situation.

It’s important to have a sharp blade to accomplish this. I had a new Mora(kniv) knife similar to one that I used to shave with that I mentioned in a previous article “Shaving with a Mora knife!!“. They come very sharp! An alternative tool for this task is a break-off blade utility knife. It is said that “a sharp knife is a safe knife” for cutting tasks and I have found this to be true. One technique that can be helpful is to “push” the wood into the knife blade that sometimes gives more control when cutting and can more easily stop the cut where needed.

I cut the wood slivers on the edges of the square wood shaft creating 1/4 to 1/2 inch slices. I start cutting from the match head downward as the thinnest part of the resulting slivers will ignite more easily when exposed to the open flame that is produced when the match is struck. I would alternate sides and then cut slightly be!ow the previous cut on the adjacent edge each time so I could avoid creating any undue weak spots on the wood shaft. It helps to carefully pull the sliver outward at the end of the cut for better exposure to the flame.

I was glad to have had so many matches with which to practice this skill until I felt comfortable and satisfied with the results. It helps to support the match head with a finger for better control and to prevent breaking the match when pressure is applied by the blade when carving. I also press down on the match head for better support while I strike it which also ensures better contact.

This is a practical exercise in knife skills that can also be applied to “feather sticks” to be used as tinder when building a campfire.

My interest in throwing knives have come and gone over the years but recently I gained an interest in the no-spin technique. My reasoning to pursue this technique is that the point of the knife will always be pointing at the target during it’s path so even if you don’t throw it exactly right your changes of the point striking a target are greatly improved. I began to watch videos on social media and tried to take mental notes on technique then I would try to apply them in practice.

The method of no-spin throwing is not natural for me and is quite different than the spin-throw method. You begin by placing your forefinger on the spine of the knife blade and “pinch” lightly the handle with your thumb and side of your middle finger. The butt of the handle for me rests in the middle of the palm of my hand.

To begin the throw you raise the knife above head height and slightly to the rear then cast forward while at the same time keeping the knife upright as you throw forward. The knife sort of slips from your hand as you throw it forward and make sure that your forefinger slides down the top of the handle as you release it. The duration of that contact with your forefinger inhibits the rotation of the knife and can be adjusted for the target’s distance.

It’s best to begin throwing at a target at a close distance and as you get comfortable begin to back away slowly, adjusting to that new distance before backing away further.

I initially used a wood pallet as my target but it had slits between the boards and so occasionally the knife would pass through them. In addition, the grain of the wood would be resistant to being stuck with the knife so if not perfectly thrown the knife would just bounce off.

After watching a number of videos I observed that many of the throwers had made a throwing target board composed of 4×4 wood blocks mounted like a checker board with the end grain sides mounted facing outward that better receives the knife points so I decided to make one for myself.

I did some math and decided to cut up 2 eight foot 4×4 timbers into 4″ long pieces which I arranged into a 7×7 block pattern minus the four corners. The timbers were treated lumber so I’m letting them dry a little before adhering them together on a plywood board that can be mounted on a tree, fence, or stand. The photo illustrates what the finished target will look like.

Now, after many throws, I am starting to get the feel of this technique and having more successful throws. It’s a little addictive like throwing horse shoes or darts and combines a special skill with pleasure and satisfaction.

I was asked to try a fixed blade to see how I might like it as an alternative to my current knives and what would be the features that I would like to see. I said I would like a thick spine with a wide portion of blade for battoning/chopping, a full tang, a non slip grip , a socket in the handle for bow & spindle firecraft, a 90 degree edge for striking ferro rods, and the blade made of carbon steel for flint & steel fire making. The HWS fixed blade knife fulfilled my requirements and I began to put it to the test.

I had to get used to wearing the HWS as my other knives were carried differently. The HWS rides high on my belt but has the advantage of being easily concealed if needed. Because of the high mount I was able to be seated in a car seat or chair but I could also feel the handle against my ribs. The Kydex sheath is very durable but I might explore other options than the leather loops for attachment to my belt. It would also be nice if a ferro rod would be integrated. The Mycarta handle has positive grip even when wet. It also has a 1/2″ hole at the end of the handle that can be used to attach a lanyard but is large enough for straightening arrow shafts for primitive archery enthusiasts.

I began to use it for chopping wood but at 8 oz. I found it to be light in weight. Chopping wood using a 4 1/2″ blade with a total length of 8 3/8″ is asking a lot but with persistence it can be used on moderate to small branches and sticks. It works best to use a wide angle approach when chopping.

The hefty blade worked wonderfully when using baton sticks. It was limited only by it’s length but it is very sturdy. Once the wood had been split down I was able to make fuzz sticks by making successively higher cuts along the wood’s edge using the thumb of my opposing hand across the top of the blade to control each cut. I found that a thicker blade works a little differently but with a little adjustment it definitely works. I then wanted to use the HWS features for my firecraft endeavors.

I grabbed a piece of flint and some char cloth. I began to use the back side of the blade to strike the edge of the flint and the initial sparks looked promising but successive sparks were harder to achieve. I was able to catch sparks on the charcloth and join it to some tinder to make a fire. Although dedicated strikers make better sparks they weren’t made to do all that the HWS can do.

It seems that any manufactured edge needs to be ruffed up a bit to be effective. that also goes for a new ferro rod. The flint striking helped to make the top of the blade more aggressive for using with a ferro rod. After several strikes I could throw some sparks and I found the sweet spot for striking to be toward the tip on the backside that gave the easiest and best sparks.

I grabbed my bow & spindle kit and began to use the socket in the knife handle as a bearing block. When in use by the left hand the blade is positioned facing outward, away from the user. The socket is a little shallow compared to a regular bearing block but then the socket in the handle is a bonus feature and not a dedicated part of a specific bow & spindle kit.

The HWS is a very dependable fixed blade knife. It feels comfortable in the hand and can perform a multitude of bushcraft tasks. All told I was impressed with this knife and it’s craftsmanship by Kellershop Knives.

Taking stock of my situation I pulled out my keys and examined them. I looked for one that was jagged that I could use as a saw to cut a groove into the outer skin. After some persistence I was successful in penetrating the skin and was able to pull it apart to reveal a very tasty inner fruit that had sections much like a mandarin orange.

It’s amazing what a simple tool like a key can accomplish. You can even use a key to open a corked wine bottle by pressing it down the center of the cork at a slight angle all the way to the uncut portion then twist the cork slowly while pulling upward and out. I suggest that you use the key that has sharp varied cuts instead of a worn key that is smooth.

So next time that you are without a knife for cutting fruits or vegetables, or even a need for a bottle opener, try a key to get the job done.

The first thing that I examined was the LED light. It was surprisingly bright. It uses button batteries that are stored within the head portion. To turn the light on you twist the head clock-wise and tighten it down. The connection was quite loose so I got some Teflon tape and made a wrap around the threads that snugged it up so that it wouldn’t unscrew and accidentally come off as so many of my mini lights have done in the past. The Teflon tape also acted as a moisture barrier. If the light is lightly tightened it can be turned on by just pressing it downward and could be used to send Morse Code signals by tapping with your thumb.

Next I examined the glass breaker. At first glance you might mistake it for being the pen tip but it is much wider with a more robust tip. A few days later I went to an auto junk yard and got permission to test the glass breaker on a car window. The window was penetrated instantly and easily when struck. The glass breaker portion covers the pen portion and is unscrewed and removed to reveal the pen.

The pen’s ferrel portion located above the pen tip is ringed with concentric grooves so it stays in position between your fingers as you write and is quite comfortable. The cone shaped transition piece between the ferrel and point can be removed in order to replace the ink pen cartridge.

Just above the pen is the junction to the knife blade. Just screw off the lower glass breaker/pen assembly and withdraw the blade. It too was a little loose so I put some Teflon tape there too. It is one and a half inches long with a sharp straight edge on one side and a serrated edge on the opposite side. The point of the blade has a swedge or false edge that allows it to have good penetration when thrusted. The knife blade was quite sharp and the serrated edge worked well when cutting cordage and other items.

Another feature of the pen is a strong clip that keeps the pen secure whether clipped inside a pocket or on a lanyard.

The Tactical LED Pen when fully assembled doubles as a Kubotan and can be used as a self defense weapon. Self defense methods using this are best learned from professionals before engaging this way.

I was very impressed with this Tactical LED Pen and it has become my new Every Day Carry (EDC) buddy. Click HERE for more information.

He proceeded to remove the wrapper off the top of the wine bottle then took a steak knife and pressed it into the top of the cork. This particular cork was the newer plastic foam types but the natural corks would work the same. After embedding the knife about an inch deep he began to twist the knife slowly as he pulled the knife upward. In a sense the knife blade acted as a big screw driver that provided good torque for loosening the cork from the neck of the wine bottle. The area of contact between the knife blade and cork body provided enough friction to pull it upward. A steak knife might have a slight advantage as the serrated edge might add slight additional surface grip. After several twists of the blade the cork emerged to a point where it could be grasped by hand and removed.

I was so excited! I asked if I could give it a try on the other wine bottle. After a few attempts at setting the blade deep enough I too was successful and was delighted to have learned a new skill. On a subsequent day I tried this with my pocket knife and I learned two things; position the blade’s edge away from you for safety sake, and insert the blade with the flat side at a slight angle so that it is less likely to slip out and enhances the lifting capability.

Is this a life saving skill? Maybe. But it could certainly save the day when a corkscrew is forgotten or lost and is a great addition to your McGyver skills. If you want to learn more methods to open a wine bottle check out this link http://www.wikihow.com/Open-a-Wine-Bottle-Without-a-Corkscrew .

A couple of months ago I published an article “Survival Wrist Band – Fisherman’s Version” that used brass barrel snap swivels. As I examined the wrist band it dawned on me these would make great attachments for my “every day carry” (EDC) set. What was needed was a way to attach the brass barrel snap swivels to each item so I took a trip to the sports department in a “Big Box” store and found small split rings that are used to connect hooks and accessories to various lures.

The split rings are quite stiff and a bit of a challenge to install, but the reward is that each item is now coupled with a brass barrel snap swivel enabling it to be detachable and basically tangle free. The brass barrel snap swivels also allow each tool to be attached to other items like zippers, luggage, hand bags or camping gear. Where could you attach yours?

Not long ago I made a short video demonstrating how to break the bottom out of a bottle by hand. My original purpose in doing this was to use the glass bottom as material with which to practice my knapping skills while making arrowheads. Each time that glass disc would pop off the bottom I would mention to onlookers that without further work, this was a tool unto it’s self. It has a very sharp edge that could be used for cutting and potentially skinning and dressing out an animal.

As survivaltek readers may attest, I’ve been known to harvest astragalus bones from deer roadkill. On such an occasion I decided to test out my theory with this improvised cutting tool from a bottle. To my delight and amazement it cut clean and easy! After the initial incision I began to separate the hide from the carcass. Although I didn’t pursue the meat and organs, I’m sure that it would accomplish the task. That further work will be a project for the future.

Although most folks are not accustom to butchering, it’s good to know that in an emergency situation and without conventional tools, you can accomplish this task that could be a key part to your survival.