This project called for three standard two-hole blocks and one mid-hole block with the single hole in the middle with open holes on each end. I went to a local hardware superstore and was surprised that they did not have the mid-hole block that I sought so I decided to buy four blocks and I would remove the outer end of one of the blocks in order to make it work. The total cost of the material was $7.03.

When I returned home I got a hammer and cold chisel and set about chipping away the outer end of one of the blocks. I tried to create a break-line along the inner edge. The concrete was resistant to chiseling so I decided to just use the hammer and chip it away in the same fashion as I would do for flint knapping. Rather than just smacking the wall mid-way I began to chip the upper edges, alternating sides and bit by bit reduced the concrete down toward the block center. I then flipped the block over and repeated the process until the wall was completely removed. Now the block was ready to assemble into the rocket stove configuration.

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It is important to allow air-flow out of the top hole so whatever is placed on top must not obscure it. A gas stove burner grate placed on top would be ideal to support a pot or pan. Alternatively three stones placed around the block rim would elevate the pot or pan sufficiently. A simple metal drying rack could be used to grill meat or vegetables.

In the end this project was successful. When not in use you could use cap blocks to cover the top and put potted plants on them to make it serve another purpose and be somewhat decorative for your yard while not in use as a stove. When the power goes out this could be a real asset for boiling water and cooking your meals.

This vertical air-flow path is also used by chimney charcoal starters. They are designed with a lower and upper chamber with a grate in the middle. They use crumpled paper as kindling in the bottom chamber and holds the briquets as fuel in the upper chamber. When the paper is lit in the bottom, the heat travels upward and ignites the briquets stored above. This caused me to think that it could also be used as a rocket stove for cooking.

I found two styles of chimney charcoal starters based on their mid level grates that separate the lower kindling chamber from the upper fuel chamber: one uses a metal plate that has a series of holes; the other has a concentric wire grate.

The model with holes in the plate works well for holding wood sticks as fuel. I fashioned a grate for the top of the chimney using two “beer can” chicken roaster brackets that I fastened “top-to-top” as a support for holding a pot or pan. I used my tin-snips to cut notches in the chimney rim to position it securely in place. This grate served two purposes: it allowed air flow through the top of the chimney as well as provided access for loading wood chips or sticks as fuel to the combustion chamber to sustain the fire while cooking.

The model with the concentric wire grate in the middle works best for igniting charcoal briquets. In essence, it works like a conventional charcoal BBQ. An inexpensive cooling rack can be used as a grate above the chimney to suspend the food items being cooked while allowing the needed airflow through the top.

Why would you use a chimney charcoal starter for cooking? Here are a few reasons: It is portable; inexpensive; easily stored; and the wood chips & sticks version uses easily obtained free fuel. It’s small capacity may not be the best choice for a party, but it can be just the thing for camping or used for a power outage emergency scenario.

Although I believe pine would be a prefered wood, I used a seasoned poplar log that I had available. I recommend using a corded high-torque drill for this process. I set the 14″ log upright and used a 1 1/2″ blade bit to drill a 6″ deep hole down the center from the top. Then I layed the log on it’s side and drilled a second hole, intersecting the first hole at it’s bottom end. Just a note: at the point of intersection, a blade bit can give a hellacious “kick” so be careful as you approach that point. After blowing out the saw dust I set the log upright to begin preparing it for fire.

As long as I took the liberty of using an electric drill to make a natural material rocket stove, I also took the liberty of using a manufactured tinder by using bamboo skewers. Purists can figure a way to approach this project more naturally but I figured “who cares? This is fun!” I collected a bundle that was about a third of the volume of the hole and poured gasoline on it and the hole walls before inserting them down the shaft. It’s important to “wet” vs. “flood” so as not to have the fluid stream out the bottom hole. Use caution when lighting it with a match or lighter. In this case gasoline was handy but other accelerants would work as well.

Conventional rocket stoves have larger diameter holes and thus fuel can be fed from the bottom hole. When I tried this approach it seemed to choke out the airway and snuff out the existing flame, so I recommend feeding any kindling from the top during the initial process of establishing the stove’s fire.

Once the flame was established I selected three 1″ high stones that I placed around the top surface of the log which became the tripod or trivet for my pot and pan. I initially brought a pot of water to boil for coffee, then continued with a pan with which to fry bacon and eggs.

Although this rocket stove takes some “manufacturing” to make, it is a great project for a number of reasons. These can be made ahead of time and stored for power outages, camping trips and garden gatherings. Outside of a little tinder and some accelerant, they are self contained and don’t require the gathering and consumption of local natural materials. They can be controlled and extinguished by using a spray bottle of water and thus can be used multiple times. Because it is elevated, it can also be used in a wet environment. Furthermore, they last for hours and are a joy to use.