Most homes depend on electricity for warmth but without it there is a danger of hypothermia. When I build debris shelters in the woods one of the main design elements is to limit the area that needs to be heated and to provide insulation from below. One popular suggestion to apply this technique to a home situation is to put a small tent on top of a bed to capture body and breathing heat.

A self standing one or two man tent is a logical choice to mount on top of a bed dependent on the mattress size. In that I did not have one of those types of tents I used my improvised “X frame” poncho tent as a substitute to illustrate this concept. In fact, a suspended rope with a tarp draped over the top could be used instead of a tent or in addition to it.

The whole point of putting a tent on a bed is to capture the limited sources of heat and to insulate yourself from the surrounding lower temperatures. Alternately, a nested double tent could be used in the living room with padding on the floor. Care should be taken to not use flammable or carbon monoxide producing supplemental heat inside these tents but hot water bottles could be brought inside or perhaps your four-legged furry pets.

These poles, perhaps an inch in diameter, should be stiff with a slight ability to flex so that when combined with other poles will create a woven framework. Unlike a woven basket that uses very flexible vines or reed-like branches, the finished pole structure might more visibly resemble a panel or flat frame.

I happened to have some bamboo poles so I decided to try out this method of an interlaced structure. The bamboo has a very smooth surface and was very slippery but it did work as shown in the photo. The stability of poles used in this way could be enhanced by making notches where the two parts cross. Additional sticks could be added like a conventional debris hut or teepee to provide insulation to the frame. It helps to align the bottom ends on the ground to settle each side and could be stabilized even further by pressing each pole into the ground like a stake.

There are so many ways to make cordage that would make this a more stable structure but it’s good to know alternative methods when your resources may be limited.

My very first hammock was made out of a single bamboo pole. It was quite comfortable and a viable hammock if that resource is available. However, I have always wanted to take a conventional approach to improvising a hammock by using a tarp or similar material. The two things that I had to consider was the length and width of the fabric and how to suspend it.

Rather than tying a rope on either end of the hammock material I decided to tie the material onto a single suspended rope, using the rope as a ridgeline. I was more likely to have a long length of rope on hand and it also provided a set distance to control the slope of the material that was hung from it. I also believe it puts less tension on the fabric.

I used a half inch braided rope and tied two alpine knots that are stable in use yet fairly easy to untie. I pulled a portion of the ridgeline down through each loop and lifted it to the side so I could thread the material through the second loop from beneath and over the side of the alpine loop above it. This created a cinching knot that tightened when tension was applied on the suspended rope and held the fabric in place (see photo).

I first tried a fitted queen sized sheet and because of the stretchable corners I tied the strait center portion at the ends of the sheet into a knot and discovered that approach didn’t work. It created an uncomfortable narrow strip of support down the middle and was unusable as a hammock. That let me know that the entire width at the end of a fabric sheet was needed for proper support and should be gathered and tied in order to give even support.

Then I used a queen sized flat sheet and folded it in half lengthwise for proper width. I accordion-folded it at each end which I then tied into a knot. The resulting support area worked okay but the eighty-inch length was too short, however, when hung close to the ground a person could sit in it and straddle the fabric and use it to sleep in while their feet rested on the ground.

Next, I used a regular poly tarp. It was 9′ x7.5′. I folded it lengthwise to make an appropriate width and gathered the ends together. Manufactured tarps are generally made with a hem around it’s perimeter. When accordion folded it becomes thicker at the edge and doesn’t require a knot to be tied when held by the cinch knot in the ridgeline. Again, it was too short but would probably work fine if it was longer.

I finally used a scrap piece of Tyvek building material left over from a construction project. It was four foot wide and I cut it down from a twenty foot length to eleven feet. I was able to gather each end and tie them in a knot. I tied the two ridgeline knots about 9′ apart to suspend the tyvek tarp. This was the ideal formula. In reality the tyvek hammock was a little more comfortable than two of my commercial hammocks because it did not have decorative accent strips on the sides that tend to form ridges and was smoother to lie in.

As all hammock users know, lying on the bias means a more level lay as seen in the first photo. This was a fun project in which I learned a lot. Next time that you pass a new construction site you might inquire about having some of the Tyvek scraps because they are so useful as when used as tarps for ground cloths, overhead cover, or as in this case a wonderful hammock.

I live in the Foothills of North Carolina. In the Winter we tend to get very limited snow that may remain in shaded areas for only a couple of weeks. This year we experienced the largest snowfall in the last fifteen years that I have lived here and it was fourteen inches deep in my region. I have always wanted to make an igloo because it is such an iconic snow shelter and this recent heavier snowfall seemed to present the opportunity that I was waiting for.

 

Traditional igloos require a special kind of snow that is dense and wet enough to stick together that makes strong blocks with which to build. Our snow was “fluffy” but I used a clear plastic drawer as a form that was just large enough to accept my loaded snow shovel. I would fill the form half way and tamp it with my foot, then added more and tamped more until it was full. I could then roll the form over and release a snow block for building.

 

I wanted to sleep over night in the finished igloo so I scribed a circle on the ground with a greater diameter than I am tall. I began to lay the snow blocks around the perimeter of the circle to establish a foundation. I added a second row and began to start a third but the blocks had to be supported.

That triggered my memory of previous research that traditional igloos lay blocks on a continual upward spiral so I changed my approach and started the one-block height incline on the third level. The weather was turning warmer and would sprinkle intermittently so I contacted my oldest son to help expedite the project. As it turned out having two people was very strategic as my son would deliver the snow blocks through the small entry and the wall began to rise.

Inside the igloo I would stand the snow blocks on end like a quarry as quarters were tight and gave easy access to the materials for uninterrupted construction.

I used a pruning saw to trim the snow blocks and the surface upon which they would be laid. the blocks became smaller and more key-stoned as I continued. What amazed me is that when the edges were trimmed to match the next block and they were shoved into place they melded together and held in place without additional support!

Because of the intermittent drizzle I placed a tripod pole inside the igloo that held up a large clear plastic tarp so that I could continue the construction. At the end It had to be removed to add the final blocks on the top. Once it was finished I covered the igloo with the tarp and returned that evening to prepare for the nights lodging.

I had made snow shelters before (see Snow Tunnel and Quinzee) so I was acquainted with how to prepare for sleeping in the snow. The key is to stay dry and insulated. I had to clear the snow debris on the floor from it’s construction then spread out a tarp. On top of that I placed a carpet pad for insulation upon which to sleep. I wore surplus Polar Fleece coveralls with a matching jacket and slept inside a down sleeping bag. I had no problems keeping warm. It is wise to include a large lid container for answering Nature’s call in the night to avoid having to exit the snow shelter.

The ground was hard despite the padding and reminded me why I like hammocks for camping. I kept the tarp on that night as the intermittent rain continued so I had no worry of the shelter melting and any possible leaks by rain. It lasted one week as the weather warmed but I was exhilarated to have accomplished a life’s bucket list item. I had to “make-do” with the type of snow and weather conditions that existed but I still had the thrill of a lifetime.

 

I live in the Northwest region of North Carolina where there are numerous groves of bamboo that have been referred to as a “primitive hardware store”. I feel truly blessed for this resource although some folks who are not into primitive skills and crafts find them annoying.

The other day I was traveling down a local road where there was a pile of bamboo poles left for disposal. I stopped by the property and asked the owner for permission to take some whereupon the owner gladly offered them and more to me. I made several trips to transport the poles home, the longest pole was thirty-seven feet!

I began to cut six foot lengths of equal circumference. I needed twelve to construct the basic framework. I cut six additional poles and split them lengthwise to lay out on the top of the frame to complete the platform.

I bought two fifty-foot tie-down cordage bundles for lashing. I had to supplement them with more cordage to tie the bottom legs and an additional step (for Grandkids and neighbor’s children). I was conservative on cordage for lashing but a more permanent structure should have twice as much… but for now it works and I will be sleeping on it tonight!

 
It was a cold night (36°) but I stayed warm in my down sleeping bag nestled inside a bivy bag. In lieu of traditional foliage as padding, I used a ground mat on top to sleep on. A pillow would have been nice! There was a full moon last night so I never used a flashlight. The flat/hard platform reminded me why I have switched to hammocking. In the end it was a great experience sleeping on a very solid bushcraft structure.

Part of what fed my outdoor and wilderness interest was my Grandfather (my Mom’s Dad) who grew up on a farm in Minnesota. He would recount his hunting stories and showed me a photo of a hut that he and his brothers made on an island in a nearby lake. Later in life as an explorer he became a “rock-hound” and hunted for agates, Jade, and found many arrowheads in the process.

My Dad grew up on a farm in South Dakota where his skills centered around repairs and innovations to keep things running. He also stumbled upon an Indian artifact in the field which he later donated to his home town museum (Historical Society of Lake Norden). Later in life also took our family camping in various state and national parks where we could put our feet in the soil and wade in the water.

These family stories and activities contributed to my pursuit of primitive and survival skills despite my urban up-bringing. It was during the Y2K scare that my wife and I homeshooled our sons. The internet was burgeoning with “survival” information and while researching for projects for “science night” I ran across an article about fire by friction using the bow & spindle method. That “sparked” my interest in firecraft that continues to this day. I broadened the scope of my research and began to practice what I read. I was able to share these skills and knowledge with the Boy Scout troop that my sons and I joined.

I have endeavored to teach my sons these skills so that they can pass them on to their children. I’m grateful for my “roots” and hope to be an inspiration to my “branches”. I heartily agree with the Scout motto to “Be Prepared”.

I carry this in my Bug-Out-Bag (BOB) along with a sheet of water intrusion barrier material that I use for a ground cloth. I don’t carry a mattress so I selected a spot that had a layer of leaves that I hoped would be sufficient to provide enough thermal insulation from the ground in addition to some degree of comfort to lay on. It was also quite flat as I try to avoid an inclined surface to sleep on.

For the most part I laid on my side with my knees bent as if sitting on an imaginary chair. Alternatively I would straighten my legs and sleep on my back. Because it wasn’t raining I knew that I could afford to poke my feet out from under the shelter if needed but I could have changed from a sitting position to a “V” position if needed to be completely covered.

The “X” frame inside provided a nice place to hang my key chain light, but my smart phone provided plenty of light when needed inside the shelter. I moved my pocket knife from my side to a more comfortable position in my shirt pocket with the added benefit of quick access if needed. I also used a bug net over my head at night, keeping it extended out from my face. As an added bug/critter repellant I rubbed tea tree oil on my ankles, wrists, neck, and forehead.

The only thing that I used that I don’t currently carry in my BOB was a down sleeping bag. This causes me to rethink my strategy and perhaps consider preparing different BOBs based on the circumstances that would necessitate my emergency egress.

Generally speaking there are a variety of plastic bags that can be used for this purpose and are available in different thicknesses and for different purposes. Contractors trash bags are generally black and heavy duty with a thicker mil number and can be found at a hardware store. Home garbage-can/leaf bags are produced in various dark colors and can be found at a grocery store. The orange trash/leaf bags are often used for highway roadside cleanup and can be found at a janitor supply store.

When choosing a bag for your hiking/survival kit it is important to select a bag that is big enough to completely cover your body in a crouched position. The orange bag shown in the photo had pleats at the bottom that formed a gable when a hole was cut inside it. When I use other bags as a shelter I place a corner above my head like the peak of a roof then cut a horizontal slot at eye level then flip the upper edge up and outward to make a small rain gutter over the opening. If you are caught in the rain be aware of water shedding paths and position your covering to drip on the outside.

A plastic bag does a good job of containing your body heat but is also susceptible to condensation and can conduct cool temps when your skin touches it from inside. It’s best to wear clothes that give you insulation from the plastic thus keeping you warmer and dryer. The small window at the top prevents asphyxiation and gives you a view to watch for your rescuers.

I recommend carrying plastic bags in your emergency kits whether in your vehicle, in the office, or hiking bag. They don’t take much space, are inexpensive, and can be used in a variety of ways. It’s a great resource for preparedness.

For starters, rip-stop material is really tough stuff and is not prone to tearing and if it should get a hole it will not grow in size. Because of this strength it can be adapted to function beyond it’s original intended use as a garment and into a tent-like structure by using fiberglass knock-down shock-cord rods as an “X-frame” being tied in the center with each end anchored at the corner grommets that are incorporated into the poncho design.

My poncho measures 54″x80″ and provides good coverage when configured as a tent. I am 6′ tall and have found a couple of positions to lay where I can be completely covered and yet stay somewhat comfortable. I can lay on my side in a sitting posture with my legs bent. When I feel a need to stretch my legs I remain on my side and form a “V” with my legs outstretched. While in this position there is plenty of room for my Bug-Out-Bag (B.O.B.) to lay beside me.

Should it happen to be raining, you could trench around the drip-line to divert water or build up a layer of insulation beneath you to keep you warm and comfy while at the same time separate you from the wet ground. If it’s not raining I suppose that body parts that protrude out from under the shelter wouldn’t really matter, but I prefer to be covered completely.

I carry my poncho in my B.O.B. along with an ENO double-sized hammock. I decided to try using the poncho as a rain-fly to cover the hammock. As you might see in the photo, it is slightly under-sized for rain but it could be used in a pinch with the sides held out with guy-lines. At the same time it covers the top opening of the hammock to help keep out bugs.

In either the tent or hammock rain-fly mode the camouflage pattern helps to provide a stealthy approach to camping which in some emergency circumstances could work in your favor unless you want to be highly visible in which case you would want to use a blaze-orange or other bright color to gain attention.

If I decide to upgrade yet another time, it would probably be for a larger size or a different camouflage pattern but I am quite pleased with what this poncho has delivered and look forward to testing it out in the field.

The book is split into 7 parts: personal defense/safety, water/filtration, food/nutrition, shelter/habitat, medical/first aid, communications/navigation/signaling and general. The reading is easy and I found the content to be quite engaging. It is clear that the author walks his talk and provides specific brand names and models of equipment and supplies that he has personally used and trusts to perform. At the end of each section he lists Tips, Do Now!, and Checklist. “Tips” offer survival techniques and cautions, “Do Now!” offers practical actions to begin the preparedness process, “Checklist” lists items to have on hand or acquire – a.k.a. a shopping list.

The author admonishes us to procure supplies and practice survival skills NOW before they’re needed. I hardily recommend this book for those individuals who have resolved to be ready for the time when things go “Boom” and want to learn more. It is a great resource for beginners and experienced individuals alike. I’m glad to have added this book to my personal reference library and find it helpful in developing my own strategy. 

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