In keeping with the idea of using a wrist mounted reflector, I wondered if a concave watch face would work so I began a search for one and found one.

As usual, the size of an optical device can make a huge difference in results. A watch face is relatively small but under full sunlight it can successfully create an ember.

While using a reflector solar device, be sure to point it directly at the sun. If a small reflector is used it might need to be slightly offset so your tinder will not block the sun.

You can determine the focal point of the sun’s rays by placing your finger above the reflecting surface and raise it or lower it to observe where the light is aimed and how broad or narrow is the beam. The smallest point of light is the hot spot where your tinder should be held.

As with all optical methods it is best to select dark material for tinder and if it is fiberous, pinch it tight to create a flat surface on which to focus as there is no focus on fluff. The condensed material also transfers heat and helps to create a coal.

In the photo I wore the watch on my wrist to illustrate the possible use and method of a bracelet to light fire during a Mayan ceremony. However, I found that using the watch in hand was more convenient. I’m happy to say that my solar experiment was successful.

Acquiring clear ice is the challenge. The first time that I made fire from ice I bought an ice block from a dispenser and then cut, shaved, and formed a lens using a pruning saw. My warm hands smoothed the surface.

I always had trouble trying to create clear ice at home. I was able to find clear ice at a nearby stream where I fashioned a nice lens but the same weather under which the ice formed was also cloudy and prevented the solar capability of sunshine.

While surfing the web I saw an advertisement for a clear ice making device for beverages that could make a sphere. I have used a glass sphere as a lens to make fire and so decided to acquire the ice maker so that I could demonstrate this remarkable fire craft method.

I acquired the clear ice kit and was happy with the resulting sphere. As I rubbed it in my hand the frosty surface became clear and usable.

Here are some observations and suggestions when using ice.

– Once the ice is exposed to sunlight it will begin to melt so the ice will begin to shrink and drip. Prop your tinder at the edge of an elevated support so water drops will miss the tinder and not pool next to it.

– While holding the ice lens be careful to allow full exposure to the sun’s rays to maximize the effectiveness of the focal point on the tinder.

– As with all optical methods it is best to select dark material for tinder and if it is fiberous, pinch it tight to create a flat surface on which to focus as there is no focus on fluff. The condensed material also transfers heat and helps to create a coal.

My next goal is to cut the ice sphere in half to increase the focal distance. It will be fun to have this capability for my personal use as well as the ability to demonstrate to others.

NOTE: Size/diameter makes a difference in an optical tool. Using a 2″ ice lens is difficult to ignite tinder. I used some charcloth with my tinder successfully. A 5″ ice lens for example would not require that advantage. Also, make sure that the skies are clear before you venture out to use this method.

Because it was only a few days past Summer Solstice the sun was very high in the sky and couldn’t produce a focal point in a strategic spot. I could have waited several hours for the sun to lower for a better angle but I decided to change the angle of light by using a mirror.

I used some moss and a dry leaf as my tinder but in the fishbowl fire scenario it could be a table top placemat or decoration that catches fire. My particular arrangement had success.

Without manipulation a fire occurrence would be rare indeed but not impossible given the right angle of the sun, a proper focal distance, and dry (probably dark) flammable target material.

Here are some helpful hints when experimenting with water lenses: it is best to stabilize the vessel, the sun angle can be modified using reflectors, use the brightest (and smallest) focal point, and use dry, dark, and compressed fibrous tinder.

I have written an article entitled “Spring Equinox – Optical Firecrafts’ Friend” which shows some of the devices that I have used to start an optical fire. While shopping for groceries awhile back I happened to see a vinegar bottle on a shelf and I noticed the spherical shape of the jar that was filled with clear white vinegar. Recognizing the optical character of this vessel I had to take it hope to have some fun with the sun.

Most liquid filled bottles or jars have some air at the top inside as was the case with this bottle so I elevated the neck of the bottle in order to capture the air and pointed it away from the sun to keep it from interfering with the concave properties of the spherical body.

As with all optical methods, tinder is a critical component of the process so I always look for dry dark fibrous material that I have flattened to create a flat surface upon which the light rays can focus. I often give the tinder a slight orbital rotation to generate a larger spot of heat. When you see embers forming, a direct gentle breath is used to increase it’s size until it is big enough to blow into a flame.

In this case I placed my materials on the back bumper of my car at a convenient height to get things started. Of course you will want to gather your fire lay materials ahead of time so that once you have a flame you can apply it to your campfire.

The materials that I used included a satellite dish antenna, some olive oil, and a discarded birthday balloon made of silvered Mylar that I had salvaged from a local dumpster. The oil was used for adhesion because of it’s dense viscosity and sticky nature towards the thin Mylar foil but a person could use a spray adhesive instead for a more permanent application.

I cut the balloon along the side so that the Mylar film could be spread out into a flat sheet. Next I cleaned the surface of the antenna before pouring a small amount of oil on the antenna dish and spread it by hand evenly on the surface. Then I laid the foil over the oiled dish surface and smoothed it out with my dry hand. I tucked the outlying foil under the dish edges to prevent light winds from lifting it off of the dish. Then I pointed the dish at the sun.

For optical firecraft I use dark colored tinder because it absorbs heat better. I prefer using fibrous material that I press together to create a flat surface onto which the reflected light can focus. You can place the palm of your hand above the dish briefly to find the focal point of the light rays so that you can know where to position the tinder. After a few moments smoke began to appear from the tinder bundle and in short order an ember began to glow whereupon I removed it and blew it into a flame.

How practical is this method? Much easier than most primitive methods used in the woods but keeping in mind that these materials are readily available in an urban setting where it would most likely be used. Of course, you’ll also need sunshine!

This method uses a plastic wrap material suspended in an embroidery frame with water poured onto it. The weight of the water causes the plastic wrap to stretch in a shallow parabola that creates a water lens. As with any lens there is a focal point where you would focus the sunbeam to a small point that when focused onto some tinder is hot enough to ignite it.

I had to elevate my lens high enough to focus the sunlight so I used various items to support the frame, in this case two plastic buckets, two boards, and two bricks. Water lenses need to be undisturbed by wind or by it’s support system so a windless day with a steady support system is crucial. My conditions were perfect and in short order smoke began to appear on my tinder and after an ember formed I let it grow while I blew air lightly on it. Then I placed the ember into a tinder bird’s nest and continued to nurture it into a flame.

I’ve done all sorts of optical fire methods and learned about the nature of each one but now I can mark this one off of my list and look forward to trying the next one. Experience is the best teacher so I invite you to try this method out for yourself.

I received a tactical flashlight from Survival Hax for the purpose of evaluation and review. This rather small flashlight (just over five inches long) has some big features. At first glance you might notice it’s aggressive appearance with a knurled handle for a positive grip. A focusable thousand lumen beam is located at the head while the button power-switch is located at the end. The flashlight case is constructed of aircraft grade aluminum and is crash, pressure, and water resistant.

The power is provided by interchangeable sources. The primary power source is a rechargeable 3.7 volt lithium battery and the secondary power option is an adapter that holds three AAA batteries. This adapter is a great provision as AAA batteries are generally accessible from any grocery or convenience store and enables you to stock up and carry extra batteries when operating in off-grid situations.

Then there’s the integrated electronics that provides five lighting modes: Low, Medium, High, Strobe, and SOS. Each mode is accessed by a full or half click of the switch. I discovered a slight inconvenience that once you click the flashlight off it advances to the next mode so that when relit you may have to cycle through to access your preferred mode. The rechargeable battery will last three hours on high and five and a half hours on low. I imagine that the strobe mode would use even less power but would be aggravating to use but could extend the battery life in a pinch.

The head of the flashlight uses a convex lens as part of it’s focusing capability. I took off the retaining ring, removed the lens, and held it curved side toward the sun and about an inch over some crushed dark dry leaves and created a coal that I coaxed into a flame. Next, I removed the battery and took some fine steel wool and stretched it out to touch each end. After a few attempts the steel wool sparked sufficiently to ignite a paper towel. Then by using one of the alternate power AAA batteries I was able to make a flame by connecting each end using a thin hourglass shaped foil gum wrapper.

These are just three benefits outside of the flashlight’s intended use. Because of it’s rugged construction I would imagine that it would also make a formidable self-defence weapon. Although the tactical flashlight comes with an attached wrist strap it unfortunately was too small for my hand to fit through it.

The Survival Hax Tactical Flashlight is a solid tool that is easily stored in a glove compartment, backpack or pocket and weighs only a third pound. It’s good to know that it has these multiple capabilities that can be used in various survival scenarios. For more information on Survival Hax’s Tactical Flashlight you can visit their website at https://survivalhax.com/products/tactical-led-flashlight .

• materials need close proximity to transfer heat while enabling sufficient air flow
• white material is difficult to ignite while dark material lights easily
• the focus from the lens/mirror needs a flat surface to ignite vs. fuzz

So I began to prepare the paper hand towel for lighting.

These paper towels come as tri-fold sheets enabling it to be dispensed successively so after I removed a sheet I proceeded to refolded it into it’s long rectangular shape. I ripped it in the middle and then ripped each half in the middle. I stacked these parts together and rolled them into a rather tight cylinder. This combination of concentric sheets allowed airflow while providing close proximity. I needed something dark upon which to focus so I found a dark dry leaf that I broke down and placed in the core at the end. I later used a black felt-tip pen to darken the outer edge on a subsequent effort that worked great!

Once I began to focus the light from the sun onto the priming leaf, smoke appeared quickly and I have learned that it pays to “wobble” the focus around a bit in an ever-widening spiral because once the initial material is ignited and consumed by the burning light it doesn’t provide on-going ignition so this practice provides an ever-widening area of what I call a critical mass of heat. Blowing on this area while focusing the light from the sun will build and sustain this growing ember. Once the ember is established It helps to hold the tinder bundle above eye level with the ember at the bottom so that as you blow on the ember it preheats the rest of the material and accelerates the process.

These paper towel rolls can be somewhat stubborn to produce a flame in themselves but can be placed within additional surrounding sheets of paper or in a pile of tinder like dry leaves and coaxed into a successful flame that can be built into a campfire.

As always, I encourage you to practice using this method to prepare you for it’s use in an emergency situation.

I recalled an article that I wrote entitled “How To Make A Poplar Leaf Basket” where I folded a leaf into a collection pouch, however now I was in an office environment so I figured that the next best resource would be a sheet of paper. For folks who follow origami, there are numerous ways to fold a box. As I folded the paper I just innovated as I went and you can see the results in the photo. Essentially I folded the paper in thirds to create creases then I pinched the corners inward and folded them over on themselves.

It has been said that “the more you know, the less you carry” and I think that applies to this scenario…”making do” with what you have. When you have a dull moment, give this “paper box” a try. You’ll probably find a better way but at least you’ll have the experience that teaches us so well and adds to our arsenal of survival skills.

I had tried this method a few times without success so I wondered “what would make this work?”. I decided that I needed a shinier surface so I went to a “dollar” store and bought a Mylar balloon. After trimming off the edges of the balloon and separating the resulting sheets I repeated the process of oiling the lid and placed a Mylar sheet shiny side out onto the surface and WOW! Smoke appeared so fast that it was almost scary! I used a piece of rolled-up newspaper for the tinder. When using tinder for solar fires it is best to use dark fibrous material so if you use newspaper, make sure to focus on a dark print area for best results.

Using Mylar gave me great results! But, I will continue my quest of using aluminum foil as a reflector to achieve a coal. Quoting from the film “The Edge”, I am admonished with this: “what one man can do, another can do”. Fortunately, right now is a good time of year to achieve my goal as the sun is at it’s highest point in the sky and should give me the best results for this solar firecraft method.