I found a tree with two branch stubs and threw my rope over the first one then walked around the tree to cast the rope over the other, then I placed a second cast over the first one again for a more secure anchor in case those stubs were weak. I tied off below about four feet above the ground.

I clipped the hammock’s carabiner at my tie-off on the tree trunk then stretched out the hammock and wrapped the rope three times within the hammock’s other carabiner. I anchored off the rest of the rope about fifteen feet away.

The rope always stretches a little after initial or continued use and should be re-tightened as needed. Because the hammock staked end tends to hang lower, staking that end on an uphill side would be helpful for a more level hang.

In the end, this illustrates another option that can enable you to set up a hammock in difficult circumstances.

On several occasions I have cut down the saplings and young trees that had grown in girth and height and ended up piling them up in a heap that remained neglected. This year I am taking a different approach. Rather than cutting them down, I am girdling them in place that will stop their growth and prepare them for firewood harvest as needed.

What is girdling? It is the practice of cutting off at the base of the tree the outer bark and sub layer called the cambium layer that supplies the nutrients and moisture to the tree that gives it life. By employing this method a tree can be selected generally for future firewood so that it can “season” in place, thus avoiding being piled up or left on the ground to rot or be compromised by bugs.

A selected tree can have the bark carefully removed by cutting two lines around the circumference several inches apart then the strip of bark in between wedged or pried off like a band. In my case, with so many small trees I used a Kukri knife to quickly cut strips away to separate the cambium layer off of the core as illustrated in the photo. In this manner I have arrested the growth of the trees on the wall and can harvest them at my leisure. At least this is my theory and I’ll be watching the results as the year passes.

So if you have land that is forested you can strategize your future crop of firewood or use this method to control emerging trees that grow in an inappropriate place.

Begin by grasping a short stick, pen or pencil like a conductor would hold a bation. Hold it out at arm’s length and slide your thumb up or down the stick to match the same width of a stream or height of a tree in the distance behind it. You may need to back up in order to match the relative size of these items. Then, keeping the tip of you thumb at the side of the stream or base of the tree, rotate it 180 degrees or 90 degrees respectively to the adjoining ground beside it. Where the tip of the stick matches the horizon line on the ground, spot a landmark like a rock or flower as a marker. Then you can walk up to the marker and measure the distance between that and the pivot point on the stream bank or tree base by pacing it out or by using a tape measure or known length of cord.

When estimating a distance or height, be sure to position yourself at a perpendicular angle (or 90 degrees) to it for the best possible accuracy.

Ginkgo trees have an interesting history. Fossil remains show us that they grew when dinosaurs roamed the Earth. They were dubbed “living fossils” by Charles Darwin. Interestingly enough, a 3000-year-old Ginkgo Biloba tree has been reported recently in China. The Gingko now survives only in cultivation. Native to China, it was introduced into the New World in 1784 by William Hamilton in his garden near Philadelphia. Ginkgos are tolerant of difficult soils and air pollution which make them popular as an ornamental shade tree for city streets – hence, a unique urban edible food source.

The female Ginkgo bears fruit that is known for it’s obnoxious smell, resembling rancid butter when the pulp is deteriorating on the ground. The fleshy, yellow-brown fruit-like part of the seed is toxic, and with long-term repeated contact can cause dermatitis. Once it is removed, it reveals the nut which is protected by a brown, paper-thin skin, just like the peanut. Remove the paper-thin layer and the seed can be eaten raw (in small quantities), or (in larger quantities) it can be cooked by roasting over an open fire or boiled and used in soups or porridges. The heating process kills offending chemicals that render it safe and tasty.

So, now we know another food source that just might come in handy. Keep your eyes open next time you take a neighborhood stroll.