A “bearing block” is any device that is used to bear down on the top end of a spindle to facilitate the stability and pressure of the spindle as it is spun using a bow or strap. There is usually an indentation that keeps the tip of the spindle in place. The best feature of a bearing block is that it is hard and durable while at the same time being as friction free as possible.

As illustrated in the photo some rocks have a natural indentation that will stabilize the rotation of the spindle while in use. Rocks of this nature are often found by lakes, streams, and seashore. Other rocks may have angular crevasses that can be used as well. The material of the rock may vary in surface from smooth like agates to gritty like sandstone but most often has the advantage of not transferring heat to your hand.

For more information regarding bearing blocks in general check out my post “Bow And Spindle Bearing Blocks”

The action begins when the shaft is rotated by hand, causing the cordage to rap around the shaft which in turn lifts the handle with each wind of the cord. Once the handle reaches the top of the shaft both hands are used to grasp the handle to press down, causing the spindle to turn. Once the handle reaches the bottom of the stroke, the inertia of the flywheel continues to turn the shaft, thus rewinding the cordage and lifting the handle to the top. The cycle of pressing down the handle repeatedly keeps the shaft turning in alternate directions with each push until the resulting char and smoke is produced from the hearth board.

The most difficult element to construct on this device is the flywheel where wood blocks or stones have been used that usually needs some lashing or stone drilling. The purpose of this article is to offer a simple alternative for the first-time firecrafter when constructing a fire pump drill.

I saw a three hole masonry brick that gave me the idea that the center hole would allow for a balanced flywheel. Without the need for lashing, I could use wedges of wood to attach it in place on the spindle shaft. By cutting notches below the brick it would hold the bottom two wedges in place while at the top an additional two wedges tighten the brick in place (see photo).

To fasten the cordage to the handle I cut a joinery “dove tail” at each end, and for the spindle I cut a slit at the top of the shaft wherein I placed the middle strand of a “figure eight” knot while the rest of the knot encompassed the tip.

It takes a little time to adjust to the rhythm of pumping the handle but once it flows and the resulting char and smoke begins to appear, the resulting ember makes it is a delight to perform.

As most firecrafters will attest, repeated use of a spindle will cause it to shorten with each use until it becomes a stub making it more difficult to use because it is prone to flip out of the hearthboard socket while bowing. Using a longer spindle gives less lateral pressure to the spindle, thus making it more stable and easier to hold in place when using a bearing block. Another problem is that spindles can get “polished” in a spot that causes slippage by the bow’s cord. A longer spindle offers more surface for the cord to operate and the cord can be raised or lowered on the spindle for better traction. I also recommend operating the bow parallel to the hearthboard as the “V” notch on the edge can wear out a bit allowing the spindle to slip out of the socket more easily when perpendicular bowing is employed.

A longer bow allows for fewer strokes because there are more spindle rotations per stroke. This translates into longer moments of friction heating the hearthboard and the sustained heat creates char more quickly wherein an ember is created.

There is a great satisfaction when creating fire using a bow and spindle. I remember the glow of my first successful ember emerging from the smoldering pile of char. I still remain amazed each time at this accomplishment. Using a longer spindle and bow can get you there more quickly and with less effort.

I occasionally walk creeks with the purpose of searching for artifacts and relics. The geology in my area includes a lot of sedimentary stone that flakes apart and with the fire-roll method I began to collect flat rocks that might be suitable for use.

Most of the rocks that I found had some imperfections like bumps, split levels, or curved surfaces but I was finally able to find some that were quite flat. I began to examine the compatibility of the stone surfaces and found a pair that seemed to fit well together. I used the larger stone for the bottom and the smaller stone to be hand held.

I began to process the stones to better match surfaces by rubbing the top stone over the bottom stone much like a sanding block over wood. That action created some dust that I blew off and then prepared a tinder toll to test. The first try did not succeed because the two surfaces where still a little rough and I had to discover the best zones on the rocks to work on. after preparing a second tinder roll I had success!

In a previous post a comment was made that the person had seen a video of someone making fire using rocks and wondered if it was a hoax. I’m here to say that rubbing two rocks together can make fire-by-friction and it was a delight to achieve!

Steel wool has some interesting properties and comes in different thicknesses or grades from “0” to “0000”, the later being the finest grade. Firecrafters prefer the 0000 grade and will use a 9V battery to touch the steel wool which creates intensive sparks that when combined with fine tinder will create a flame. However, once the steel wool has been lit it will have been consumed as a source of sparks and will not reignite. This is because steel wool when manufactured is coated with an oil to prevent rust and that coating is the part that combusts. So, to collect rust from steel wool it is best to burn off the oil in order to better expose the steel for chemical oxidation.

To burn off the oil coating on the steel wool you can touch it with a 9V battery or use a lighter or in my case I used a propane torch. The steel wool will turn a shade of blue due to the temperature of the burn-off as illustrated in the photo. It will also become somewhat brittle.

After the burn-off you can dip the steel wool into plain water or you can enhance the process by adding salt or chlorine bleach to the water solution then shake it out and lay it down to do it’s transformation over night. In my experimentation I also used hydrogen peroxide (H202) and sprinkled salt on top. Rust was created within hours vs. overnight. When it’s dry, you can rub the rusted areas with a finger while holding the bundle over a sheet of paper so that the iron oxide particles fall below. When finished you can lift the sides of the paper to gather the dust into the center then tilt the paper down to pour the rust into a cup or other container. This can be repeated until you collect a sufficient amount for your purpose. A magnet can be used to separate wool particles but it must be held only close enough for the larger pieces to be withdrawn.

I was able to use my rust to create fire with the fire roll firecraft method and was delighted to add to my firecraft accomplishments. And now you can too!

(L-R) Cotton, Jute, Sisal, Dogbane, Coconut Husk

I used ashes as my base powder for testing fibers and was successful using cotton, jute, sisal, dogbane, and coconut husk. These were all natural fibers. Some of the fibers were obtained by unraveling cordage. What didn’t work was artificial fibers from dryer lint and cigarette butts.

(Clockwise from upper left) Wood Ash, Baking Soda, Comet Cleanser, Char Cloth (Carbon), Oxi-Clean Detergent

In the process of testing these materials I began to perfect my technique of preparing the roll, rolling it, and the signs of successful ignition. Here are some observations and suggestions.

When I roll up the thick fibers I end up with a roll that resembles a cocoon or fat AA battery. I begin by rolling it in one direction by hand so that it successfully adheres to it’s self. I continue to roll it in one direction using the upper board to compact it further while warming it up internally. Once it is reduced in diameter similar to a cigarette or pencil I use both hands to roll it back and forth.

I begin at a moderate pace then add speed and pressure over 20-30 strokes. Sometimes at a certain point you can feel a certain “grip” of friction that signals it’s ready to uncover and look for a dark spot or a wisp of smoke. You can feel the roll with your fingers for a hot spot and after a few successes you will know the temperature of a success. If the roll is not hot enough just replace it and roll vigorously again. In the humid atmosphere here sometimes it’s best if you see a wisp of smoke to just let it smolder a bit to allow it to build heat because if you blow on it too soon sometimes it cools it off enough to snuff it out. Once the ember appears you can use it in the conventional manner to add to a “birds nest” or tinder bundle to work into a flame. You can use the left-over fibers used for creating the roll for this purpose.

The fire roll method is my new best fire-by-friction friend and I’m sure that more tinder tests will be performed in the future.

A “bearing block” is any device that is used to bear down on the top end of a spindle to facilitate the stability and pressure of the spindle as it is spun using a bow or strap. There is usually an indentation that keeps the tip of the spindle in place. The best feature of a bearing block is that it is hard and durable while at the same time being as friction free as possible. Sometimes folks will add a little grease, fat, or wax to the socket to optimize it’s performance.

Natural sockets might be found in rocks, shells, and bones. Natural materials for crafting bearing blocks might include wood, stone, and antlers. It is possible to use both halves of a split branch for fire by friction with one half used for the hearth board while the other half is used as the bearing block. I prefer using the same wood for both the spindle and hearthboard but it is best to use a more durable material for the bearing block to minimize friction on the top end of the spindle.

In modern times there are a number of “trash” items that can be used in an emergency or on a temporary basis such as bottle caps, pipe caps, concave wine bottle bottoms and such. More durable bearing blocks have been made using machine bearings, embedded coins, or anything that forms a socket shape that will not get too hot or disintegrate during the bowing process. Some knife manufacturers have designed sockets in their handles for emergency use. I have used a circle feature in the blade on one of my folding knives.

In the end, there are a variety of items that can be used as a bearing block and I would suggest that those who practice firecraft should experiment with different things to become aware of strengths and weaknesses of materials and learn how to improvise when needed. What items have you used for bearing blocks?

I first saw this method posted in a social media group where the member posted photos of their experience. I was intrigued and knew that I had to try it for myself to validate it and add to my firecraft achievements.

Traditional bows use a single cord or strap either with a bent bow, straight stick, or with toggles at each end. It is usually wrapped around a spindle once or as with the Egyptian bow drill method a knot is tied in the middle of a spindle with a few additional winds on either side. A multiple wrap approach helps to prevent the spindle from springing out of the hearthboard, especially as the spindle gets short. In a similar fashion the twin cord method employs a single wrap with each cord that helps to prevent the spindle from being tossed out.

The twin cord can be simply made by using a loop that is fastened or hooked on a branch spur or notch on one end of the bow and held in place with your thumb at the opposite end. Your thumb is used to maintain tension on the spindle while bowing. I found that I supported the end of the bow with the palm of my hand and had to twist the bow slightly to compensate for the cord position while being held with my thumb.

I think that this method has two advantages: it provides a secure spindle and the cord-to-bow attachment is very simple.
To watch this method in action, click HERE to view a video.

To my delight I recently saw this method demonstrated on The Weather Channel’s “Fat Guys In The Woods” program hosted by Creek Stewart. The participants each created their own fire using this method so I was encouraged to pursue this again, taking cues from their example.

I went to a store to buy a cotton sanitary napkin and began to read the labels regarding the material used. I saw that they listed cotton and Rayon and I didn’t know how successful that would work so I opted to buy 100 percent cotton balls instead for about two dollars. When I returned home I unraveled the balls and formed a six by four inch square. I used some charcoal left over from my campfire to crush into carbon dust that I sprinkled on top of the cotton pad. Starting from the narrow edge I rolled this tightly like a cigar then compressed it further by rolling it between my two hands.

I placed this carbon impregnated cotton roll between two “two-by-four” boards with one board used as a base while the other board was passed lengthwise back-and-forth on top while employing increased speed and pressure. Eventually smoke started to appear out the ends of the cotton roll and when I removed the boards I could feel a hot spot near the end. When it’s “too hot to handle” you know it’s ready to be opened up at that spot to expose it to the air so that it can be coaxed into an ember.

This a great alternative fire-by-friction method that uses simple materials. For me it was a satisfying accomplishment that I can now check off of my firecraft bucket list.

The main difference between the Egyptian Bow Drill and a conventional bow drill is that a knot is tied around the spindle thus capturing it with two main benefits: the spindle (especially short ones) cannot fly off the hearth board and become airborne; less tension and friction is required for the cord to turn the spindle. This is particularly helpful when weaker natural fiber cordage or improvised cordage is used.

Typically a clove hitch is used to fasten the cord in the center of the spindle, with the lines being coiled around the spindle on each side of the knot (see photo). About 3 turns per coil worked best for me to draw a full stroke in each direction. The net effect is that while one side unwinds, the opposite side rewinds and the process is reversed with each stroke of the bow.

I found that a slight angle to the bow was needed to compensate for the span of wrapped cordage in order to maintain a smooth stroke and rhythm. For me, I prefer the conventional bow drill with a taught line, but for weaker cords that are more loose or can’t take the strain, the Egyptian Bow Drill is a good way to go.