I found a tree with two branch stubs and threw my rope over the first one then walked around the tree to cast the rope over the other, then I placed a second cast over the first one again for a more secure anchor in case those stubs were weak. I tied off below about four feet above the ground.

I clipped the hammock’s carabiner at my tie-off on the tree trunk then stretched out the hammock and wrapped the rope three times within the hammock’s other carabiner. I anchored off the rest of the rope about fifteen feet away.

The rope always stretches a little after initial or continued use and should be re-tightened as needed. Because the hammock staked end tends to hang lower, staking that end on an uphill side would be helpful for a more level hang.

In the end, this illustrates another option that can enable you to set up a hammock in difficult circumstances.

 
 
 
 I bought a spool of mason’s line at the big box hardware store for $6. It was 250 ft. I had figured that the project would require 320 ft. but I wondered what I could do with less. I started by stretching a line across an 8 ft. board that I placed between 2 trees. I marked the line with a sharpie pen every 4 inches. Then I cut 12 ft. lengths of line and folded each one in half and began to fasten them onto the top line at each mark using larks head knots (also known as cows hitch knots).

 The original plan was to make an 8 ft. wide by 6 ft. tall net. I began to run out of line at the 6 ft. mark and so began to tie the hanging lines at alternate pairs to create the diamond shaped pattern of netting. I would grab the left line and roll the first loop up and hold it while I rolled a second loop beneath the first knot in the opposite direction. I would join the loops together that formed a lark’s head knot after I pulled the right line through the double loop. The lark’s head knot when spread open revealed 2 overhead knots appearing like a square knot that could be adjusted to the right length to create the diamond net cell.

Once I finished the net I had to figure out a way to suspend it. It was obviously too short to hang it like a conventional hammock so I used it like a sling. I used some polypropylene rope to thread through the net’s outer edge loops before attaching them to opposing sides of each tree. Proper practice is to use slings to attach to each tree but for the quick test I just tied the ropes directly.

I gingerly entered the gill net hammock and it held!. A longer net would have been more comfortable but the experiment was a success. The more I wiggled to settle in the hammock the net began to slide from the outsides inward so fastening the head end would be needed. It seems that the foot end could remain loose as it can be slid to the middle in order to step out of the net to exit.

This hammock is certainly not convenient or perhaps for some even safe but it might be better than laying on the ground in certain conditions and uses simple materials to construct. As usual, it was a fun project of discovery and learning.

My idea was to hang a rope over a high branch in a tree, stake off each end on the ground, and attach each end of the hammock on each sides of the hanging rope. I experienced some interesting results. The main challenge to the hang is the stretching of the rope on each side but also the need for reliable anchor points on the ground.

I was able to coil the rope at one end in order to throw it over a high limb. I used an “over and under” method when coiling the rope that prevents the line from entangling when thrown, but even then it took me four tries before being successful.

 
I initially used a foot long stake at each end of the rope to secure them to the ground then used webbing to make prusik knots on each side that I used to attach the hammock. When I attempted to lay in the hammock the challenges began. Not only did the rope stretch which lowered the hammock, but the stakes began to pull out of the moist soil. Then I cut two foot long stakes and tried again. One stake held but it took three stakes to hold on the other end.

 
Although the initial prusik knots held, I doubled up the knots with my carabiner fastened through them and over the rope with each prusik positioned on opposing sides of the carabiner.

It took a lot of adjustment with trial and error but in the end it worked! I’m not saying that this is a practical method but it was a proof-in-concept that I had to try and learned a lot in the process. Who knows… it might come in handy for you some day!

My very first hammock was made out of a single bamboo pole. It was quite comfortable and a viable hammock if that resource is available. However, I have always wanted to take a conventional approach to improvising a hammock by using a tarp or similar material. The two things that I had to consider was the length and width of the fabric and how to suspend it.

Rather than tying a rope on either end of the hammock material I decided to tie the material onto a single suspended rope, using the rope as a ridgeline. I was more likely to have a long length of rope on hand and it also provided a set distance to control the slope of the material that was hung from it. I also believe it puts less tension on the fabric.

I used a half inch braided rope and tied two alpine knots that are stable in use yet fairly easy to untie. I pulled a portion of the ridgeline down through each loop and lifted it to the side so I could thread the material through the second loop from beneath and over the side of the alpine loop above it. This created a cinching knot that tightened when tension was applied on the suspended rope and held the fabric in place (see photo).

I first tried a fitted queen sized sheet and because of the stretchable corners I tied the strait center portion at the ends of the sheet into a knot and discovered that approach didn’t work. It created an uncomfortable narrow strip of support down the middle and was unusable as a hammock. That let me know that the entire width at the end of a fabric sheet was needed for proper support and should be gathered and tied in order to give even support.

Then I used a queen sized flat sheet and folded it in half lengthwise for proper width. I accordion-folded it at each end which I then tied into a knot. The resulting support area worked okay but the eighty-inch length was too short, however, when hung close to the ground a person could sit in it and straddle the fabric and use it to sleep in while their feet rested on the ground.

Next, I used a regular poly tarp. It was 9′ x7.5′. I folded it lengthwise to make an appropriate width and gathered the ends together. Manufactured tarps are generally made with a hem around it’s perimeter. When accordion folded it becomes thicker at the edge and doesn’t require a knot to be tied when held by the cinch knot in the ridgeline. Again, it was too short but would probably work fine if it was longer.

I finally used a scrap piece of Tyvek building material left over from a construction project. It was four foot wide and I cut it down from a twenty foot length to eleven feet. I was able to gather each end and tie them in a knot. I tied the two ridgeline knots about 9′ apart to suspend the tyvek tarp. This was the ideal formula. In reality the tyvek hammock was a little more comfortable than two of my commercial hammocks because it did not have decorative accent strips on the sides that tend to form ridges and was smoother to lie in.

As all hammock users know, lying on the bias means a more level lay as seen in the first photo. This was a fun project in which I learned a lot. Next time that you pass a new construction site you might inquire about having some of the Tyvek scraps because they are so useful as when used as tarps for ground cloths, overhead cover, or as in this case a wonderful hammock.

Occasionally in social media I’ve seen what looks like a three person hammock which piqued my interest but in fact it is a suspended tent that is officially described as a “three-person all-season suspended camping tree house tent”. It is basically a three anchor point triangular canvas covered with an integrated mosquito net canopy. It comes with an optional rain tarp.

I wondered what it would be like to spend a night in one with two other adults, thus testing the advertised three person capacity. As it happens, some friends of mine own one and had it set up. With their permission I was able to share an overnight experience with my two adult sons.

The entry is very unique. You can enter it from below via a zippered triangular hatch in the center. This reminded me of my Hennessey Hammock that uses a Velcroed slit for entry. In addition there are three zippered panels available for entry or egress on the sides of the roomy mosquito net canopy.

After all three of us entered the tree tent it seemed that one end of the triangular canvas floor was a little high, so we tried to correct it. The tree tent is suspended using ratcheted straps. We maxed out the tension on the lower end, and we lowered the anchor strap with a little slack on the high end. We felt that it became more comfortable but may have contributed to the ensuing bowl phenomena that we experienced that night.

The somewhat flat surface of the tarp reminded me of a trampoline but it had less support points on the perimeter so it was more flexible and as we entered the tent it would sag in the middle. When I brought in my gear it would slide toward the entry point.

When two persons share a double hammock there is unavoidable major bodily contact but with the large tree tent canvas I thought that this might be avoided but no such luck. It became apparent as we gathered inside that in order to have personal space we had to lay with our feet to the center and heads at the outward points of the triangular canvas. There is an integrated strap at each point so it is uncomfortable to lay in the center of these areas. The outward edges between the anchor points were unusable as we were inclined to roll laterally inward.

In an effort to not disturb my sons by touching their feet that night I ended up in a fetal position in my corner taking occasional stretches. I was pleased that whenever one of us would shift our sleeping position during the night the resulting shaking was surprisingly minimal. Because we had warm weather we did not feel cold from below that night. We used our sleeping bags only as blankets and realized that we would have slid inward if we had slept in them. Perhaps this problem might have been different using other anchor points and mounting adjustments.

My opinion is that this is a novelty item that is best used for semi-permanent camps or back yard setups. It definitely favors being a tent vs. a hammock. It became evident that my expectation of a hammock was in error but sharing a warm Summer night together with my sons made this a rewarding experience.

After debriefing my friends the next morning they are considering moving the tree tent to a more suitable area with even spaced trees which may make for better anchoring and more even tensioning. If they do, we have been invited to try another overnight hang to help evaluate what they hope will be a more comfortable experience.

My friends who owned the tree tent invited me back to try it out after they had tightened it up according to the manufacturer’s instructions and it was more comfortable. I tested it with only one other available adult instead of having my two sons with me but it did exhibit more pronounced laying areas along the sides as apposed to our use of the the corners of the triangular canvas. The bottom line is that a hammock and a tree tent are two different structures and therefore they are set up differently. I had applied my hammock experience to a tree tent when I had adjusted it but apparently that led to my overnight comfort demise. So, lesson learned. Hammocks and tree tents are set up differently and each one offers a different lounging experience.

More recently while hanging in my hammock I was seeking the same slumber destination. To get comfortable I use some type of support under my neck and have used an inflatable collar pillow but I have used items of clothing like a jacket to accomplish the same support. I got to thinking that a hoodie could be used to support my neck while the hood portion could be used over my head instead of a hat to diminish the light and sound so I set out to give it a try.

The hoodie can be folded in different ways to accommodate different resting positions, namely whether you are vertical or horizontal. Essentially I spread the hoodie out face-down and start to roll the bottom hem upward toward the shoulder. When the rolled material reaches the out-stretched sleeves you can strategically leave the sleeves outstretched to be used to loosely tie the hoodie collar pillow around your neck to keep it in place while sitting upright. This helps when it is used in a seated position like when riding in a train or plane. If used in a hammock where the stabilization is not critical you can fold the sleeves across the back instead and continue to roll up the material to achieve a slightly thicker neck support and in each configuration the hood can be used to cover you head.

On a slightly different topic of hoodies I would like to offer some thoughts on their colors. Whereas I like to blend with my environments I would use a neutral/subdued color while in urban areas but I would choose an ODC or earthtone when in outdoor situations. If that’s not your concern then color doesn’t really matter. In any event a hoodie makes a good “layer” of clothing to help regulate your comfort while in variable temperature scenarios as well as a sleeping aid while traveling abroad.

– UPDATE –

Recently I took a plane trip abroad and decided that I wanted to try out the hoodie configuration that used the sleeves to tie around my neck to keep it in place while seated in the passenger seat. It worked very well but I ran into a complication. The hoodie that I used was a zippered model and when rolled up it created a bulge in the middle. I tried to place my neck on either side of the bulge but decided to take a different approach to folding it. I unrolled the hoodie and stretched out the zipper diagonally, then rolled the material straight up so that in effect the zipper created a spiral that evened out the previous bulge.

Wearing the hoodie for the flight worked great and enabled me to “Z-Out” quite easily. It was a light duty cotton garment but I may want to progress to a heavier material hoodie for colder weather with the added benefit of a more cushioned support for my neck.

Here are some of it’s applications:

FISH GORGE – bait is placed on the fish gorge with the purpose that the fish will swallow the bait and gorge in whole that in turn will twist within the fishes gullet or mouth allowing the fish to be caught and retrieved.
TRAP AND DEADFALL TRIGGER – Traps and deadfalls use stored energy from a bent sapling or from elevated dead weight. The toggle enables a delicate trigger to be placed in such a way as to release these devices to snare or crush the intended small game animal.
TARPS / CLOTHING – A toggle can be passed through a grommit or loop and when turned 90 degrees and will hold fast a tarp or join the seam of clothing.
HAMMOCK SUSPENSION – Hammock enthusiasts have found that a quick way to attach tree straps to their hammock lines is by using a toggle. In lieu of an actual toggle a small bar is used as a marlin spike that in turn performs as a toggle for connection.
SURVIVAL WRIST BAND – A simple attachment for the popular paracord wrist band is a small ferro rod that can be used to start fires when needed. The ferro rod is the toggle that is placed through it’s corresponding loop.

You can see from these examples how effective toggles can be which is why this is such a valued tool throughout history. You may find other applications but it’s a good tool in your survival knowledge base that could make a huge difference in a survival situation.

 

I began my selection process for a stout stalk of bamboo and stepped on a yellow jacket’s nest. Three stings later, I found a 3 inch diameter stalk (a distance away from the yellow jackets) and made the cut with a pruning saw then used a Kukri Machete to chop off the branches. I loaded it on top of my car to transport home for the work of splitting and testing.

I cut a 15 foot length and then used two 3 foot lengths of jute string to bind just past the first node on each end to limit the ensuing linear splits to come. Next, I cut holes midway in the end nodes through which I would thread loops of cord for suspension purposes. Later, the thinner node split from the hole so I learned that lashing just inside each end node should be made to limit potential splits as well.

I used a stout piece of wood to baton my Kukri blade lengthwise into the bamboo shaft every 1/2 to 3/4 inches, splitting the wood to the lashed node at each end. The initial cuts are difficult but get easier with each new slat that is made. Once that process was complete I collected a 24 foot stout piece of kudzu vine to weave in and out of the slats, one to two passes per node section. This helps maintain even positioning of the slats as well as added support for comfort.

A finishing touch is to knock out the broken node segments inside to eliminate spurs in your backside. It is quite comfortable and a viable hammock in a pinch. Let’s hope that if you need to make one, you will have warm weather and mosquito netting for the night.

In recent times I have been focused on perfecting my Bug-Out-Bag (BOB) which is somewhat minimalist in it’s contents. It consists of a small strapped shoulder bag because I also use it when traveling by air and it is small enough to be considered a “personal” item which allows me to take an additional “carry on” item for my clothes, etc.. I carry the ENO in my BOB but as is typical for most hammocks, it has no insulation so it becomes cold on my back-side as I lay in it. On a warm summer day this can be refreshing, but at night you can get hypothermic. For me, an ENO alone would not be a successful overnight option for bivouac. In a regular camping scenario I use an inexpensive fiber-filled sleeping bag that keeps me insulated but there is no room in my small BOB for a sleeping bag so I began to seek alternatives.

My first approach was to use a foam/foil windshield screen which I hoped would provide insulation and heat reflective properties. I lasted until 02:00 o’clock but bailed out because I was too cold. The next time I bought an inexpensive inflatable pool air mattress that enabled me to last until 03:30 o’clock before bailing out due to cold. Next, I had a foil/fabric emergency sleeping bag into which I inserted the inflatable mattress. With this combination I was actually able to sleep pretty much through the night. However the foil/fabric bag has issues with condensation so it gets wet inside.

I shared these results with a friend who encouraged me to avoid taking on added equipment but rather, look at my existing equipment for things that might be used for insulation instead. I realized that I pack a Tyvek-type material for use as a ground cloth and a flecktarn pattern poncho. I decided to create a pad by rolling the ground cloth loosely in order to form air pockets. I laid this inside the hammock to cover my seat up to my neck, then I wrapped my poncho around the hammock from underneath and snapped it together over the top. This configuration allowed me to sleep through the night as well without needing the extra gear that I used previously in my tests.

A disadvantage with this arrangement is that it uses the rain gear for insulation so it’s best used in fair weather, but one advantage is that the flecktarn does blend nicely with the surrounding environment.

So, for now, this looks like a workable solution for my minimalist BOB. If I want to do some serious camping, I can be outfitted properly for more severe environments.

For starters, rip-stop material is really tough stuff and is not prone to tearing and if it should get a hole it will not grow in size. Because of this strength it can be adapted to function beyond it’s original intended use as a garment and into a tent-like structure by using fiberglass knock-down shock-cord rods as an “X-frame” being tied in the center with each end anchored at the corner grommets that are incorporated into the poncho design.

My poncho measures 54″x80″ and provides good coverage when configured as a tent. I am 6′ tall and have found a couple of positions to lay where I can be completely covered and yet stay somewhat comfortable. I can lay on my side in a sitting posture with my legs bent. When I feel a need to stretch my legs I remain on my side and form a “V” with my legs outstretched. While in this position there is plenty of room for my Bug-Out-Bag (B.O.B.) to lay beside me.

Should it happen to be raining, you could trench around the drip-line to divert water or build up a layer of insulation beneath you to keep you warm and comfy while at the same time separate you from the wet ground. If it’s not raining I suppose that body parts that protrude out from under the shelter wouldn’t really matter, but I prefer to be covered completely.

I carry my poncho in my B.O.B. along with an ENO double-sized hammock. I decided to try using the poncho as a rain-fly to cover the hammock. As you might see in the photo, it is slightly under-sized for rain but it could be used in a pinch with the sides held out with guy-lines. At the same time it covers the top opening of the hammock to help keep out bugs.

In either the tent or hammock rain-fly mode the camouflage pattern helps to provide a stealthy approach to camping which in some emergency circumstances could work in your favor unless you want to be highly visible in which case you would want to use a blaze-orange or other bright color to gain attention.

If I decide to upgrade yet another time, it would probably be for a larger size or a different camouflage pattern but I am quite pleased with what this poncho has delivered and look forward to testing it out in the field.