I have been watching some social media videos regarding how to find fatwood. Fatwood is the resinous portion found in old softwoods like pine. Some folks who live in pine forests often find old stumps or fallen tree trunks that have rotted, leaving remains of the stubby limbs where they attach to the trunk. This is where to look for the resin that has gathered within the tree.

 
The challenge that I face is that I live in a hardwood forest area and there are few pines. I ventured out to see if I could find a fallen pine tree or stump and I finally found one. I used my hatchet to cut away at the base of a limb and saw the dark sort of transparent layers of fatwood. I removed the wood and shaved it down. I split off a piece to test for burning and was delighted to see the smokey, bubbling flame that fatwood produces.

 
 
I will continue to look for larger pieces but even small pieces can be helpful to maintain a flame when wind and moisture would compromise regular tinder when making a campfire.

I have mentioned in previous articles alternative fire starters such as “Duct Tape Tinder And Fire Starters” and “Quick And Easy Fire Starters”. Many petroleum products will burn well but they are usually quite sooty. In the short term smokey flames are okay but be sure that you’re up wind when it’s burning.

Recently I wrote about using rubber bands in the process of making an “Antler Slingshot” so having various rubber bands on hand I decided to try one to see if it would be a viable fire starter. It takes a few moments to establish a solid flame but once established it burns very well… up to two minutes! Of course the thicker the rubber band the longer the burn time.

Rubber bands are a light weight, inexpensive, and easily obtained “flexible” resource that can be carried by wrapping around a water bottle or any other object of your choosing. It’s another potential resource to aid you in building a fire when needed.

The other day I had finished some paper work in my bathroom and ended up with an empty toilet paper (TP) spool. These cardboard tubes have been used in a number of crafts and I pondered the possibilities of it’s application. Being a firecraft enthusiast I recognized the hollow cylindrical shape as an element often used in making rocket stoves. All it needed was a low level point of air intake above which a platform was needed to hold tinder, and what better tinder could there be but dry toilet paper tissue.

I made two perpendicular cuts on either side of the cardboard spool about an inch from the bottom end and then pushed in the lower edges. This created airways while at the same time provided support for material placed above. Then I took a two foot strip of toilet paper and lightly stuffed it inside from the top.

I set up a lean-to fire lay and placed this new fire starter beneath the kindling. It had rained the night before and the small twigs were slightly damp. I took a match and lit the fire starter at each of the slit holes and watched the ensuing flame as it ignited the TP tinder and kindling above it.

This may be more of an impromptu fire starter but it could come in handy for a campfire at a campground or backyard fire pit. For those folks who plan ahead for campfire activity this just might be a convenient solution for a good start.

Fire starters are easily lit and are created to sustain a flame while the tinder placed above it catches fire. In lieu of fire starters, selecting a good material for tinder can be an asset. Birch bark is great for this as it has built-in oils that, once lit, burns nicely, even if it gets wet (see “Birch Bark Tinder“). Campers are known to use a small pile of corn chips in a pinch. Even small strips of tire inner-tube work. What took me by surprise is the use of duct tape for this purpose. Who knew?! I had to try it out for myself.

I started simply with a small piece then progressed to a more involved set-up. You can take a 2 inch square of tape and drape it over a piece of tinder and place more tinder over it. Then you can light an edge with a match or lighter. Once it catches on fire it burns with a sooty but strong flame. To provide a longer burn time you can create a free-standing candle. I take a 6 inch strip and make accordion folds, fashioning wings and joining the last adhesive ends together. Then I put a small strip at the top center like a fuse, then light that to start the duct tape fire starter going.

I carry a water bottle when hiking and use it as a spool onto which I wrap duct tape around it’s circumference. Duct tape is so versatile and now I know of a new use that could make a huge difference in starting a fire when needed.

Despite the advantage that ferro rods provide, not everyone is successful or gets immediate results. Some obstacles to ignition are dampness or fineness of materials. When in the field it is wise to collect assorted tinder found along your path to help insure your “fire success” at the end of the day.

I have had the opportunity to provide demonstrations of bushcraft to various groups over the years. On one occasion during a class outing at a youth camp I had a request to demonstrate how to build a campfire using available materials. It had been raining and I only a little time to find suitable materials. It was a fail. For the next class I was determined to succeed in building a successful campfire so I brought some cattail fluff along with some flaky textured river birch bark. The birch bark provided the fine tinder to catch the flames that were produced by the ignited cattail fluff. Birch bark has the additional advantage that the oils in the bark, once lighted, will burn despite a wet and damp environment and will last long enough to get kindling on it’s way to a successful fire.

I selected a curly piece of bark that was flaky and placed a pinch of cattail fluff inside the curl. This helped to contain the cattail in place as any wind would try to break it apart. When I use a ferro rod, I hold the striker (in this case the square-edged back of my knife) next to the tinder and place the ferro rod underneath it. I pull the ferro rod up against the striker and out, thus keeping the sparks in place without disturbing the tinder. Striking down the ferro rod with a striker could potentially travel forward and strike your tinder setup as well and scatter it apart.

An alternative to river birch bark for tinder is dry leaves, whether deciduous or pine. Be sure to place some material above the cattail because it will have a very short duration flame that must be caught. Have small dry sticks handy to build upon the flames. For more pointers on building campfires, see me article “How I Build A Campfire“.

We’ve all heard about the prowess of a “one match fire”. Now you know the elements and method of a “one strike fire”. Take time to experiment with different materials so that you can achieve this goal for yourself, then teach it to others.

The common thread leading to sustained combustion is the progression of thin-to-thick flammable material. The three basic categories of material is referred to as tinder, kindling, and fuel. For instance, tinder might be dry grass, leaves, bark or twigs, kindling might be pencil sizes branches, and fuel might be arm sized branches or larger logs. Because heat rises along with the flames, these materials generally are stacked with the tinder at the bottom, kindling above it, and fuel beside it or placed on top of the fire once it is established. The materials should be close enough to transfer heat but loose enough to allow air flow.

Safety measures should be taken when building a fire and I always advocate having an open container of water close by. In addition, there are various ways to contain and control the fire such as by using a fire pit, trench, or Dakota hole. In environments where there is snow or soggy ground, a fire may need to be insulated from beneath using green logs as a base. When fire is needed on a deck or floor, a thick earthen pad can be used.

The campfire constructions (or fire-lays) that follow are geared toward naturally found materials that you might find in the woods. Although the larger fuel logs shown in the illustrations have been cut or split, it is not necessary for a successful campfire. Although each campfire style may share similarities they can also differ in their advantages and disadvantages.

LOG CABIN – The log cabin configuration is a classic structure and very picturesque. It allows air flow and elevates kindling above the initial flames of the tinder placed within the structure. I may be helpful to dig a slight trough under one side with which to accommodate the lighting of the tinder.	Log Cabin Campfire
TEEPEE – The cone shape of this campfire takes advantage of the rising heat produced from the lit kindling located inside at it’s base. Like a teepee, an initial tripod of sticks with interlocking branches can be placed to support additional sticks that are leaned against it. Some of the sticks may need stability that can be gained by pressing the bottom ends into the ground. At some point this structure will collapse but will hopefully provide the critical mass required to ignite fuel sized branches that are subsequently placed on top of it.	TeePee Campfire
LEAN-TO – The lean-to is built with a log (or dry stone) as a prop to hold up kindling that is leaned against it. Underneath the kindling is placed tinder. This is my preferred method for several reasons: it is very stable structure; the fuel log can act as a wind break or wind scoop; the fuel log is immediately heated for quicker ignition.	Lean-To Campfire
STAR – This is another classic campfire that works quite well. Fuel logs are placed like spokes in a wheel, leaving an opening at the center for a mound of tinder and kindling. The logs provide the same benefit as a lean-to with the added advantage that the logs can vary in length but can be pushed into the center as they are consumed. This comes in handy when you are unable to cut the fuel logs into shorter convenient lengths.	Star Campfire
INVERSE – In recent years there’s been attention given to the inverse campfire. This breaks the rule of using thin-to-thick materials that start from the bottom, but rather is constructed with the fuel logs at the bottom with kindling and tinder placed above. When the tinder is lit, gravity takes hold and the fire and embers descend onto the fuel below, igniting each consecutive layer as it grows.	Inverse Campfire
BUNDLE-UP – This is a name that I have attached to a variation of the Swedish Log Candle. The Swedish Log Candle is a fire log that is split or cut lengthwise into wedges, using an axe or chain saw in the process. The bundle-up can be made without tools using broken pieces of wood that are wrapped together with vines, cordage or wire. Longer pieces can be placed on the outside with shorter ones in the center. This creates a slight bowl area into which a mound of kindling and tinder is placed and lit. This aspect resembles the inverse fire structure. The advantage of the bundle-up is that it raises the fire off the ground and can be used in watery areas. Binding the bundle low allows for the longest burn time from above.	Bundle-Up Campfire

 
I’m sure there are other campfire methods that exist but these methods have been proven and provide options for you to use in various conditions. I’m always interested in learning new ways to build campfires and invite you to share yours. 

Lip balm can also be used as a lubricant. It can be applied on areas of your body that are prone to chaffing to reduce friction. It can also be used on mechanical items like hinges or threads to facilitate fastening nuts onto bolts. It can also be used as a moisture barrier to prevent corrosion. Because of it’s oily/waxy nature it can be used to control water flow whether near your eyebrows to control sweat, under the lip of a pitcher to control drips, or on a tent line during a rain. It can be used as a sealer around seams or small orifices.

In a camping scenario it can be used to enhance tinder performance for starting fires. You can cut a thin pad of balm and press a magnetized needle through it enabling it to float on water for an emergency compass or you can tie the whole container onto a fishing line to use as a float. In a domestic scenario it can be used to write a message on a mirror, a pane of glass or a windshield. A friend told me that he uses it on the face of his gold clubs for better ball control.

I carry a medicated lip balm that contains clove. It helps to heal the cracks on my finger tips in Winter time. It helps to stop bleeding of small cuts and soothes abrasions. Because of it’s fragrance I’ve also used it as a deodorant in short term situations.

Whatever circumstances that you find yourself in, whether in emergency or for convenience, lip balm will most likely find a place for good use.