Awhile back I decided to make a spinner target so that it would signal a hit without having to replace a toppled can or a perforated paper target. I could open my backdoor to shoot from either inside the threshold or step out onto my porch while observing safety precautions from either position to confirm a clear down range. Although commercial spinner targets are very robust and durable when used with conventional gun ammunition, they are not needed for most BBs, small rocks, or acorns.

The materials needed to make a DIY simple spinner target are made with household items such as a metal coat hanger, tin can lids, and one and a quarter inch binder clips. The only tool needed would be a pair of pliers for bending the coat hanger.

I wanted to use different sized can lids for targets that ranged from three and a quarter inches to two inches in diameter and hung them in descending order by size. You can vary the lid size, quantity, and distance to your own liking. I bent the wire to include small “bumps” to act as barriers between each can lid with a slight sag between them that enables the cans to recenter after being hit. Then I opened a binder clip over the wire and clamped it onto the top edge of the can lid.

I found that sometimes a can lid may be sprung out when hit but that is the advantage of having multiple lids hanging on the coat hanger wire so you can continue practicing. Because the stones or acorns used with a slingshot have more mass, the can lids are more prone to be sprung loose.

I have had a lot of fun using the DIY simple spinner target and it has enabled me to sharpen my shooting skills. I recommend making one for your own benefit and enjoyment that will help you be better prepared.

A couple of months ago I published an article “Survival Wrist Band – Fisherman’s Version” that used brass barrel snap swivels. As I examined the wrist band it dawned on me these would make great attachments for my “every day carry” (EDC) set. What was needed was a way to attach the brass barrel snap swivels to each item so I took a trip to the sports department in a “Big Box” store and found small split rings that are used to connect hooks and accessories to various lures.

The split rings are quite stiff and a bit of a challenge to install, but the reward is that each item is now coupled with a brass barrel snap swivel enabling it to be detachable and basically tangle free. The brass barrel snap swivels also allow each tool to be attached to other items like zippers, luggage, hand bags or camping gear. Where could you attach yours?

The other day I was scouting for 40 oz. beer bottles whose bottoms I remove and use to make arrowheads. Having found one I placed it in a plastic grocery bag to carry as I continued my search. At the end of my excursion I began to remove it from the bag but noticed that it was oily and coated with grease. Rather than handle the bottle, I decided to keep it inside the plastic bag with only the neck poking out the top. As I inserted the metal rod into the neck of the bottle to poke out the bottom it dawned on me that all pieces of glass would be captured inside the bag and that it was a safer process.

For some people this may have been an obvious approach but for other folks like me it was a great revelation. A slight challenge in this process is that the bottle is not visible while you strike it so it becomes more of a “feel” of proper rod placement while striking the bottom. If you follow the suggestions in “Removing Beer Bottle Bottoms” and with a little practice it should become second nature for this procedure.

Of course, take care when retrieving the bottle bottom from inside the bag. Once removed I recommend tying off the top of the bag that contains the remainder of the bottle parts before disposing it in the trash or recyclable bin.

Although I believe pine would be a prefered wood, I used a seasoned poplar log that I had available. I recommend using a corded high-torque drill for this process. I set the 14″ log upright and used a 1 1/2″ blade bit to drill a 6″ deep hole down the center from the top. Then I layed the log on it’s side and drilled a second hole, intersecting the first hole at it’s bottom end. Just a note: at the point of intersection, a blade bit can give a hellacious “kick” so be careful as you approach that point. After blowing out the saw dust I set the log upright to begin preparing it for fire.

As long as I took the liberty of using an electric drill to make a natural material rocket stove, I also took the liberty of using a manufactured tinder by using bamboo skewers. Purists can figure a way to approach this project more naturally but I figured “who cares? This is fun!” I collected a bundle that was about a third of the volume of the hole and poured gasoline on it and the hole walls before inserting them down the shaft. It’s important to “wet” vs. “flood” so as not to have the fluid stream out the bottom hole. Use caution when lighting it with a match or lighter. In this case gasoline was handy but other accelerants would work as well.

Conventional rocket stoves have larger diameter holes and thus fuel can be fed from the bottom hole. When I tried this approach it seemed to choke out the airway and snuff out the existing flame, so I recommend feeding any kindling from the top during the initial process of establishing the stove’s fire.

Once the flame was established I selected three 1″ high stones that I placed around the top surface of the log which became the tripod or trivet for my pot and pan. I initially brought a pot of water to boil for coffee, then continued with a pan with which to fry bacon and eggs.

Although this rocket stove takes some “manufacturing” to make, it is a great project for a number of reasons. These can be made ahead of time and stored for power outages, camping trips and garden gatherings. Outside of a little tinder and some accelerant, they are self contained and don’t require the gathering and consumption of local natural materials. They can be controlled and extinguished by using a spray bottle of water and thus can be used multiple times. Because it is elevated, it can also be used in a wet environment. Furthermore, they last for hours and are a joy to use.

Recently at one of my demos a gentleman introduced yet another call from a most unexpected source: a coffee stir straw. These straws are very thin, measuring approximately 1/16 inch in diameter and about 7 inches in length. Without any modifications you can place the end of the straw to your tightly closed lips and begin to suck at the tip, similar to the squeaking sounds that you might make to call squirrels or small game. I do give it a small pinch at the tip before I make a call. With a little practice you can make some remarkable sounds with surprising volume. If you like, you can also cut the straw shorter to make a higher pitch sound.

So if you find yourself without a commercial turkey call and need one, stop by a fast-food stand and grab a coffee stir straw and give it a try. Alternatively the straws included with children’s juice boxes work well too. Check out the video to see the technique and hear the sound.

She explained that she had gone fishing recently and during the quiet moments she busied herself by rummaging through the tackle box. She found some brass barrel snap swivels that are used as a convenient attachment between a fishing line and lures. Having several in her hand she began to connect them in daisy-chain fashion into a closed loop. She found that four swivel snaps fit nicely around her wrist.

She offered a number of applications for it’s use in an emergency situation. Here are a few as examples: as a fishing hook, as a retrieval grappling hook, as a safety pin, as a clasp to secure opposing zipper pulls on luggage, or as a zipper pull. Other uses might include using it as a fashion accessory or for attaching small items to your Every Day Carry (EDC) keyring.

I would love to hear your comments on other ways that you may have used them or perhaps suggestions for their potential use.

The advantages of this fishing device is that it stores easily in small spaces like your car’s glove compartment or in your Go-Bag/BOB. It will hold your fishing line, hook, sinker, lures and small float. The line can be stored by wrapping it on the outside with the rigging tucked inside, or you can wrap the line around your fingers to gather it for placing inside the tube as well. Additional fishing gear or perhaps survival kit items can be placed in a plastic bag and tucked inside the tube for easy retreival.

To anchor the end of the fishing line, I cut an 1/8″ deep slot across the open end of the tube then tied a slip knot at the end of the fishing line and fed it up through the inside of the tube from the opposite end. Once the line poked through to the slotted end I placed the loop into the slots and over one half of the tube while cinching up the knot and then capped it, thus securing the line in place.

The disadvantages of the tube is that the small diameter requires more winds than with a soda can for the same length of line to be retrieved. It’s a little more difficult to cast compared to a larger can, and whereas I use a thumb to release the line with a can, I use my fore-finger with the tube. Some times it’s just easier to sling the line by hand for casting.

Yes, it’s nice to have high-end equipment, but sometimes there is joy in simplicity. I keep a hand-spool fishing kit in each car, ready for an unexpected opportunity that crosses my path.

You can make your own cache by removing the cap of the lip balm and elevating the wax out completely. The cylinder of wax will have a plastic cup at the end and you can gently remove it. Then, fold your currency in half lengthwise. A hair pin can be slipped over the bill’s midpoint and rotated like a spindle to create a small tube which in turn can be placed into the empty lip balm container. When the cap is replaced, no one will see the contents or suspect your lip balm of being a cache of currency. For an even more hidden appearance you can cut off the wax just above it’s plastic cup and replace it in the tube over the currency so that it appears completely normal when the cap is removed.

In regards to the wax, in a hot environment it might melt and moisten the contents that are hidden, but it doesn’t invalidate the currency. It can also be used in a number of other ways such as for it’s original purpose, or to float an improvised needle compass, to enhance kindling for making a fire, or for any number of other things.

So consider taking that extra step of monetary backup. It takes very little space and could just save the day in an emergency.

Start this project by selecting the largest clean leaf and pluck it off where the stem meets the branch. On the stem, estimate a distance of about 2 inches away from the leaf and break off the end. To accomplish this I pinch the stem with my fingernails while rotating my hands in opposite directions. Some folks may prefer to cut it off with a knife or scissor accessory blade. Then break the remaining stem into 2 – 1 inch pieces. This creates 2 pins that will be used to hold the folded leaf parts together and can be temporarily held between your lips in ready position for installing during the next step of folding the leaf.

For esthetics, I prefer to fold the leaf with the top surface facing outward. To begin, position the stem edge facing upward with the underside facing you. fold the upper left lobe inward, aligning the bottom of the lobe at the same level as the notch on the opposite side, then lift the bottom 2 lobes up, making a horizontal fold line connecting the left and right notches. These folded parts become tabs that overlap and are joined by stitching one of the stem pins in and out of the leaf tabs. Repeat the process with the right upper lobe, tucking it under the bottom tab and joining it with the remaining stitched pin.

This is definitely a short term implement but can be easily and quickly constructed whenever it’s needed. Click HERE to view a video to see how it’s done.

I put the tip of my index forefinger on the tick and began a rigorous circular motion for about 15 seconds, then reversed the direction for another 15 seconds. When I stopped to check the results, the tick was gone! It had backed out of it’s attachment area and dropped off. I was delighted to see that this method actually worked. I quickly searched the mat below to find the tick, and there it was! I picked it up to examine it to see if all of it’s parts were intact, and it began to crawl up my finger showing that It’s head had not been detached or left behind. It dawned on me that others would like to learn this method too so I grabbed my camera to capture the moment to illustrate this article.

What could be easier than using no tools or chemicals? If you, your friend or a pet is plagued with a tick, give this method a try. I hope that it will work as well for you as it did for me.