The plastic bag approach can be used in two different ways, as an air bucket or when modified as an air funnel.

When used as a bucket the bag can be held open while scooping air into it then quickly closing the open end. That end is held closed by one hand and directed over coals or at the inlet of a Dakota Hole. The other hand presses the bottom of the bag while the open end of the bag is carefully released.

As a funnel a plastic water bottle can be cut around the middle circumference and the bottle’s neck can be poked through the bags bottom corner where it can be affixed with duct tape. The neck can be held or taped onto the inflation or exhaust port on an air mattress or raft.

When the open end of the bag is spread open it automatically fills with air, then when it is closed quickly by hand it can be pressed closed to begin inflation. There is a commercial version called an “inflation bag” or “pump sack” that is used to inflate pack rafts.

In any case plastic bags can be a helpful tool while camping and should be considered as part of your provisional gear.

I found a tree with two branch stubs and threw my rope over the first one then walked around the tree to cast the rope over the other, then I placed a second cast over the first one again for a more secure anchor in case those stubs were weak. I tied off below about four feet above the ground.

I clipped the hammock’s carabiner at my tie-off on the tree trunk then stretched out the hammock and wrapped the rope three times within the hammock’s other carabiner. I anchored off the rest of the rope about fifteen feet away.

The rope always stretches a little after initial or continued use and should be re-tightened as needed. Because the hammock staked end tends to hang lower, staking that end on an uphill side would be helpful for a more level hang.

In the end, this illustrates another option that can enable you to set up a hammock in difficult circumstances.

My idea was to hang a rope over a high branch in a tree, stake off each end on the ground, and attach each end of the hammock on each sides of the hanging rope. I experienced some interesting results. The main challenge to the hang is the stretching of the rope on each side but also the need for reliable anchor points on the ground.

I was able to coil the rope at one end in order to throw it over a high limb. I used an “over and under” method when coiling the rope that prevents the line from entangling when thrown, but even then it took me four tries before being successful.

 
I initially used a foot long stake at each end of the rope to secure them to the ground then used webbing to make prusik knots on each side that I used to attach the hammock. When I attempted to lay in the hammock the challenges began. Not only did the rope stretch which lowered the hammock, but the stakes began to pull out of the moist soil. Then I cut two foot long stakes and tried again. One stake held but it took three stakes to hold on the other end.

 
Although the initial prusik knots held, I doubled up the knots with my carabiner fastened through them and over the rope with each prusik positioned on opposing sides of the carabiner.

It took a lot of adjustment with trial and error but in the end it worked! I’m not saying that this is a practical method but it was a proof-in-concept that I had to try and learned a lot in the process. Who knows… it might come in handy for you some day!

My very first hammock was made out of a single bamboo pole. It was quite comfortable and a viable hammock if that resource is available. However, I have always wanted to take a conventional approach to improvising a hammock by using a tarp or similar material. The two things that I had to consider was the length and width of the fabric and how to suspend it.

Rather than tying a rope on either end of the hammock material I decided to tie the material onto a single suspended rope, using the rope as a ridgeline. I was more likely to have a long length of rope on hand and it also provided a set distance to control the slope of the material that was hung from it. I also believe it puts less tension on the fabric.

I used a half inch braided rope and tied two alpine knots that are stable in use yet fairly easy to untie. I pulled a portion of the ridgeline down through each loop and lifted it to the side so I could thread the material through the second loop from beneath and over the side of the alpine loop above it. This created a cinching knot that tightened when tension was applied on the suspended rope and held the fabric in place (see photo).

I first tried a fitted queen sized sheet and because of the stretchable corners I tied the strait center portion at the ends of the sheet into a knot and discovered that approach didn’t work. It created an uncomfortable narrow strip of support down the middle and was unusable as a hammock. That let me know that the entire width at the end of a fabric sheet was needed for proper support and should be gathered and tied in order to give even support.

Then I used a queen sized flat sheet and folded it in half lengthwise for proper width. I accordion-folded it at each end which I then tied into a knot. The resulting support area worked okay but the eighty-inch length was too short, however, when hung close to the ground a person could sit in it and straddle the fabric and use it to sleep in while their feet rested on the ground.

Next, I used a regular poly tarp. It was 9′ x7.5′. I folded it lengthwise to make an appropriate width and gathered the ends together. Manufactured tarps are generally made with a hem around it’s perimeter. When accordion folded it becomes thicker at the edge and doesn’t require a knot to be tied when held by the cinch knot in the ridgeline. Again, it was too short but would probably work fine if it was longer.

I finally used a scrap piece of Tyvek building material left over from a construction project. It was four foot wide and I cut it down from a twenty foot length to eleven feet. I was able to gather each end and tie them in a knot. I tied the two ridgeline knots about 9′ apart to suspend the tyvek tarp. This was the ideal formula. In reality the tyvek hammock was a little more comfortable than two of my commercial hammocks because it did not have decorative accent strips on the sides that tend to form ridges and was smoother to lie in.

As all hammock users know, lying on the bias means a more level lay as seen in the first photo. This was a fun project in which I learned a lot. Next time that you pass a new construction site you might inquire about having some of the Tyvek scraps because they are so useful as when used as tarps for ground cloths, overhead cover, or as in this case a wonderful hammock.

Occasionally in social media I’ve seen what looks like a three person hammock which piqued my interest but in fact it is a suspended tent that is officially described as a “three-person all-season suspended camping tree house tent”. It is basically a three anchor point triangular canvas covered with an integrated mosquito net canopy. It comes with an optional rain tarp.

I wondered what it would be like to spend a night in one with two other adults, thus testing the advertised three person capacity. As it happens, some friends of mine own one and had it set up. With their permission I was able to share an overnight experience with my two adult sons.

The entry is very unique. You can enter it from below via a zippered triangular hatch in the center. This reminded me of my Hennessey Hammock that uses a Velcroed slit for entry. In addition there are three zippered panels available for entry or egress on the sides of the roomy mosquito net canopy.

After all three of us entered the tree tent it seemed that one end of the triangular canvas floor was a little high, so we tried to correct it. The tree tent is suspended using ratcheted straps. We maxed out the tension on the lower end, and we lowered the anchor strap with a little slack on the high end. We felt that it became more comfortable but may have contributed to the ensuing bowl phenomena that we experienced that night.

The somewhat flat surface of the tarp reminded me of a trampoline but it had less support points on the perimeter so it was more flexible and as we entered the tent it would sag in the middle. When I brought in my gear it would slide toward the entry point.

When two persons share a double hammock there is unavoidable major bodily contact but with the large tree tent canvas I thought that this might be avoided but no such luck. It became apparent as we gathered inside that in order to have personal space we had to lay with our feet to the center and heads at the outward points of the triangular canvas. There is an integrated strap at each point so it is uncomfortable to lay in the center of these areas. The outward edges between the anchor points were unusable as we were inclined to roll laterally inward.

In an effort to not disturb my sons by touching their feet that night I ended up in a fetal position in my corner taking occasional stretches. I was pleased that whenever one of us would shift our sleeping position during the night the resulting shaking was surprisingly minimal. Because we had warm weather we did not feel cold from below that night. We used our sleeping bags only as blankets and realized that we would have slid inward if we had slept in them. Perhaps this problem might have been different using other anchor points and mounting adjustments.

My opinion is that this is a novelty item that is best used for semi-permanent camps or back yard setups. It definitely favors being a tent vs. a hammock. It became evident that my expectation of a hammock was in error but sharing a warm Summer night together with my sons made this a rewarding experience.

After debriefing my friends the next morning they are considering moving the tree tent to a more suitable area with even spaced trees which may make for better anchoring and more even tensioning. If they do, we have been invited to try another overnight hang to help evaluate what they hope will be a more comfortable experience.

My friends who owned the tree tent invited me back to try it out after they had tightened it up according to the manufacturer’s instructions and it was more comfortable. I tested it with only one other available adult instead of having my two sons with me but it did exhibit more pronounced laying areas along the sides as apposed to our use of the the corners of the triangular canvas. The bottom line is that a hammock and a tree tent are two different structures and therefore they are set up differently. I had applied my hammock experience to a tree tent when I had adjusted it but apparently that led to my overnight comfort demise. So, lesson learned. Hammocks and tree tents are set up differently and each one offers a different lounging experience.

In truth the river waters that I have traveled have been easy-going with enough action for the beginner that I am to learn how to navigate. The waters have been shallow enough with rocks often enough to occasionally get hung up and I’ve had to learn bow to get loose to remain afloat.

Along with the action of the waters each trip offers awesome scenery. In my region it’s not uncommon to see squirrels, great blue herons, kingfishers, mallard ducks, Canadian geese and various song birds. Occasionally we have seen beavers, otters, snakes and deer. I think that the tracks left in the mud shown in the photo may well be otter spoor. what do you think?

In addition to the enjoyment of being on the water, kayaking and canoeing provide another mode of transportation that can be used in an emergency. It can be used for egress or simple transportation from place-to-place… perhaps to otherwise inaccessible places for safety. I’m preparing for a camping trip via kayak this Spring/Summer with eager anticipation. I’ve acquired a dry bag but I may need more. I’ll be sure to share that experience with you!

More recently while hanging in my hammock I was seeking the same slumber destination. To get comfortable I use some type of support under my neck and have used an inflatable collar pillow but I have used items of clothing like a jacket to accomplish the same support. I got to thinking that a hoodie could be used to support my neck while the hood portion could be used over my head instead of a hat to diminish the light and sound so I set out to give it a try.

The hoodie can be folded in different ways to accommodate different resting positions, namely whether you are vertical or horizontal. Essentially I spread the hoodie out face-down and start to roll the bottom hem upward toward the shoulder. When the rolled material reaches the out-stretched sleeves you can strategically leave the sleeves outstretched to be used to loosely tie the hoodie collar pillow around your neck to keep it in place while sitting upright. This helps when it is used in a seated position like when riding in a train or plane. If used in a hammock where the stabilization is not critical you can fold the sleeves across the back instead and continue to roll up the material to achieve a slightly thicker neck support and in each configuration the hood can be used to cover you head.

On a slightly different topic of hoodies I would like to offer some thoughts on their colors. Whereas I like to blend with my environments I would use a neutral/subdued color while in urban areas but I would choose an ODC or earthtone when in outdoor situations. If that’s not your concern then color doesn’t really matter. In any event a hoodie makes a good “layer” of clothing to help regulate your comfort while in variable temperature scenarios as well as a sleeping aid while traveling abroad.

– UPDATE –

Recently I took a plane trip abroad and decided that I wanted to try out the hoodie configuration that used the sleeves to tie around my neck to keep it in place while seated in the passenger seat. It worked very well but I ran into a complication. The hoodie that I used was a zippered model and when rolled up it created a bulge in the middle. I tried to place my neck on either side of the bulge but decided to take a different approach to folding it. I unrolled the hoodie and stretched out the zipper diagonally, then rolled the material straight up so that in effect the zipper created a spiral that evened out the previous bulge.

Wearing the hoodie for the flight worked great and enabled me to “Z-Out” quite easily. It was a light duty cotton garment but I may want to progress to a heavier material hoodie for colder weather with the added benefit of a more cushioned support for my neck.

1 Waterproof EDC container
1 Paracord
3 Fishing lines
2 x Hooks
2 x Weights
2 x Floaters
2 x Sinkers
2 x Swivels
1 Knife
1 Tinder cotton
1 Ferrocerium rod
2 Safety Pins
1 cable saw
1 Whistle
1 Carabiner

I decided to take this PSK to a private pond to see what it could do. Knowing that it had fishing gear I decided to use the cable saw to cut a fishing pole from a nearby sapling. Although I chose to just hold ends of the saw in each hand it could be implemented with toggles at each end or affixed to a curved branch to make a bow saw. I found that the cable should be kept under a ninety degree bend for best cutting results. It did a great job of cutting my pole.

 
The hooks and line came in three parts: 12 feet of just line and two 12 foot lengths with hooks attached. The single line unwrapped easily but the lines with hooks became tangled and took some time to untangle before I could use them but no matter how long that took they were vital parts for fishing so definitely worth the effort. I attached one of the hook lines to the end of the fishing pole, attached a worm and began to fish. I caught a bass!

I decided to try and make a fire with the ferrocerium rod and used the saw/knife blade as a striker. I gathered some dry fluffy weeds for tinder but was unable to get a flame. Then I remembered the tinder cotton and fluffed out one end. It caught the sparks immediately and I had a fire going right away.

I was able to cut a fishing pole, attach a line and hook (and caught a fish!), and built a fire upon which I could cook. The paracord and cable saw could have been used to construct a shelter. I was impressed that a kit so small had so much to offer in providing food and shelter in a survival situation.

Click HERE for more information about this EDC Keychain. Survival Hax is offering a discount to my readers so if you decide to purchase one (or more) be sure to use the promotional code EDCKEY50 on the checkout screen.

Primitive living skills that I enjoy apply to bushcraft wonderfully but cordage can be a challenge due to the resources available. It can take time to process and there’s the question of durability for it’s use. For expedience sake I would practice with commercial cordage which is readily available and reliable.

There are basically two types of cordage on the market: natural fiber and synthetic strand. If you visit a hardware store or shopping isle you can find twine and rope made of cotton, sisal, jute, manila or hemp. These are natural fibers with low stretch and grippy surfaces. The other cordage will be synthetic fiber made of materials such as polyester, polypropylene, and nylon. This cordage will be stronger and more durable but somewhat slippery. You will find their construction will fall in the categories of twisted, solid braid, or diamond braid. The diamond braid is a weaved sheath around a linear fiber core and is less durable than a solid braid.

I usually preferred cordage used for small engine starting cord or drapery valence cord for bow & spindle practice for it’s durability but recently I came across this much less expensive tie-down rope that costs three cents a foot and wanted to share this bargain with other firecrafters and outdoor enthusiasts. Cordage is always good to have in your camping gear, vehicle emergency kit, Bug-Out-Bag, or household. By buying a variety of cordage you can become familiar with their properties and which one is appropriate for your applications.

Part of what fed my outdoor and wilderness interest was my Grandfather (my Mom’s Dad) who grew up on a farm in Minnesota. He would recount his hunting stories and showed me a photo of a hut that he and his brothers made on an island in a nearby lake. Later in life as an explorer he became a “rock-hound” and hunted for agates, Jade, and found many arrowheads in the process.

My Dad grew up on a farm in South Dakota where his skills centered around repairs and innovations to keep things running. He also stumbled upon an Indian artifact in the field which he later donated to his home town museum (Historical Society of Lake Norden). Later in life also took our family camping in various state and national parks where we could put our feet in the soil and wade in the water.

These family stories and activities contributed to my pursuit of primitive and survival skills despite my urban up-bringing. It was during the Y2K scare that my wife and I homeshooled our sons. The internet was burgeoning with “survival” information and while researching for projects for “science night” I ran across an article about fire by friction using the bow & spindle method. That “sparked” my interest in firecraft that continues to this day. I broadened the scope of my research and began to practice what I read. I was able to share these skills and knowledge with the Boy Scout troop that my sons and I joined.

I have endeavored to teach my sons these skills so that they can pass them on to their children. I’m grateful for my “roots” and hope to be an inspiration to my “branches”. I heartily agree with the Scout motto to “Be Prepared”.