Ken’s Do-It-Yourself Mini Survival Kit is totally flexible to your needs. The following list includes the elements and description of their uses.
- Landyard – Attached to fishing license holder for wearing around neck. Can be disassembled for use as cordage for bow & spinel fire kit.
- Snare Wire – Used for snaring small game – food aquisition.
- Fishing Line – Used for fishing, binding, snare, etc.
- Safety Pin – Used for binding, fishing, awl, etc.
- Fishing Weight – Fishing equipment, plumb, etc.
- Fishing Hooks – Fishing equipment.
- Sewing Kit – Sewing repairs, suture major cuts, binding. Needle can be magnetized and floated on the plastic saucer or leaf on water which becomes a compass.
- Fishing License Holder – Water proof container that holds the kit contents. Can also be used as a cup.
- Aluminum Foil – Heavy duty grade prefered. Form into a cup for boiling water.
- Paper – Two self-stick notepad sheets used as sheath for razor blade. Also used for notes if you have writing implement.
- Razor Blade – Used for cutting. Can be magnetized by stropping down arm in one direction – the end being pulled will point north when blade is floated on plastic saucer of leaf.
- Plastic Saucer – Made by cutting off bottom of disposable plactic cup. Used to float needle or razor blade to operate as a compass.
- Inner Tube – A wedge cut from inner tube used as “fire-starter” to sustain initial flame for campfire building. Especially useful in damp conditions.
- Steel Striker – Used to create spark with ferrocerium flint. Kit produced by Boy Scouts of America.
- Flint-Ferrocerium Stick – To be struck with steel striker or sharp rocks to create sparks for fire starting. Cattail fluff is a terrific tinder to use with this method.
- Bandages – For covering/binding wounds.
- Fresnel Magnifying Lens – Used for making fires by solar method.
- Signal Mirror – Effective signal over long distances by reflecting the suns rays. Best to practice before needing to use it.
I have a similar kit. One modification you may like to consider is replacing the steel striker with a section of hacksaw blade. I snapped of the length I wanted and smoothed the end. I left the teeth on and covered them with some electrical tape. This means that I have the blade back as a smooth scraper (which works well) and by removing the tape I have three “tools” : a small section of tape, a small saw, and if you use the toothed section of blade to strike your flint it will produce a huge shower of sparks, although it will quickly wear through the flint, so I suggest only doing that when desperate.
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