By now, just about everyone has seen a luminescent chemical stick in some form. At night-time events you may see sticks of different sizes, bracelets, necklaces and more. They are called many different things, often by brand names such as Cyalume, Snaplight, GlowSticks, etc., but the standard 6″ industrial grade stick is what we’re interested in for signaling. They come in different colors and increments of light duration time, typically 12 & 8 hours (general use), and 30 & 5 minutes (emergency signal). The shorter the duration, the brighter the light. The 30 and 5 minute light sticks can be plainly visible from a distance of 1 mile. They are a single-use light that is totally encapsulated, making it completely waterproof and totally safe in explosive gas environments. They need no batteries or power, and have no flames or heat. They come packaged in air-tight foil packages which gives them a potential shelf-life of 4 years. Once the package is opened, it has a lifespan of only a few days. The flexible plastic tube stick contains 2 chemicals inside, one being separated from the other by a glass vial. When you bend the stick, the glass vial safely breaks inside, thus exposing the 2 chemicals together, whereupon shaking the stick activates the chemical reaction which releases light. Most sticks have a built-in hanger at one end and come with an attachable lanyard. Essentially, when holding the stick, making large motions are the most effective, and by attaching the lanyard and swinging the light stick in a large circle, you will produce the most visible display for attracting attention. I carry light sticks in my vehicles and in my BOB (Bug-Out-Bag). Other locations for storage might include your circuit-breaker box, emergency preparedness box, or with your camping gear.
Tags: Lights, Lightsticks, Signal
Friction Fire Methods of Bow-and-Spindle and Hand-Drill involve using a spindle on a hearthboard to generate heat and char in order to create an ember. The most successful material for this purpose is a non-resinous soft light wood that produces a slightly fibrous coffee-colored powder known as char. I prefer to make the spindle and hearthboard from the same piece of wood as this produces the best friction and does not wear out unevenly. The spindle should be straight with a rounded blunt end for the friction head, and the other end should have a longer taper so that it will be sharper, enabling it to spin easily in the socket or bearing block. The point of this writing is to describe the design elements found in the hearthboard as it is the foundation of this fire making method.
The hearthboard usually includes a slight pit or depression that keeps the head of the spindle stable and centered while being turned. In addition, there is almost always a notch included that serves two functions: one, to collect the char produced by the rapidly turning spindle, enabling it to collect heat as it grows with each subsequent turn, and two, it allows air to access the hot char, thus providing the heat-fuel-air trio needed to create a live coal once proper temperature is reached and sustained. Each of the following hearthboard types includes these two vital elements.
Standard Pit and NotchThis classic hearthboard is most commonly used. It is constructed with either modern tools or other field expedient sharp implements. The pit is created by carving a slight depression, then the spindle is placed over it and spun in place in order to “burn-in” a smooth pit. Then, the notch is cut into the center of the pit and can be “V” or “U” shaped. This allows the char from the pit to spill into the notch as it is created. A green leaf is often placed under the notch before beginning this process in order to transfer the new coal to awaiting tinder.
Pit and TroughThe trough can be fashioned by cutting a deep grove in a board, or, it may be found naturally by virtue of a linear crack in a branch or log, or, some woods have linear lobed spines that naturally create a trough. A perpendicular cut can be used as a pit to stabilize the spindle head. As the char forms, the trough acts as a notch. This method can be used with larger pieces of wood stock.
Twin StickIf you cannot find suitable wood large enough for a pit based hearthboard, you can join two smaller sticks together with cordage or sinew. cutting a perpendicular groove will help hold the spindle in place, or sometimes you can just rest it next to the binding material and it will tend to keep it in place while the spindle turns. The space between the sticks creates a trough and acts as a notch. This method allows smaller wood stock to be used.
Consecutive PitsThe first pit will become a char collection point when a second pit is started adjacent to it. As the second pit enlarges, it will break through to the first pit, acting as a notch. You can make consecutive pits along a line to continue the notching process with each fire making effort. You can control the pit positioning by leaning the spindle as needed while you spin it.
These are just 4 examples of hearthboards that can be made, but a creative mind might find other ways as well. The important thing is that you know the fundamental elements in hearthboard design so that you can be prepared for implementing a variety of wood materials. Each one has it’s advantages. Take time now to experiment with each design and learn the nuances of each method, because ultimately, it leads to fire!
Tags: Bow, Fire, Friction, Hearthboard, Spindle
I’ve met a few folks lately who have shared their experience using a unique cooking method from decades ago… cooking food on a car’s engine. This concept has always intrigued me, and I knew that I had to try it. I began to study this method and apparently it is seeing a resurgence in interest. It seems that aluminum foil is the container of choice, although tin cans work too, but vented and usually surrounded by foil to inhibit taking on any engine taste and to prevent spills. It’s best to plan ahead and scope out your engine compartment for available places to put your food bundle while it’s cool and not running. Items should not be placed where it would interfere with moving parts. It may require “wiring in” to keep the food package in place, so take care where and how you attach the wire. Most folks suggest using 3 sheets of aluminum to wrap the food, folding the seam lengthwise several times, then folding the ends several times as well. There will be variations in temperature within the engine compartment, and can be used strategically for the miles/time of your travel. I found 2 places on my engine and placed foil wrapped cobs of corn (still in their husks) on each side of the engine. I drove to an out-of-town seminar covering about 50 miles in mixed traffic. When I arrived at my destination, it was raining, so I dashed inside and initially forgot to take out my meal. When the rain stopped, I woke up to the fact that I had food waiting for me, so I dashed out to the car and lifted the hood. The engine was still quite warm, so I carefully removed the food bundles. To my delight, the corn was great! No engine taste, and very tender. Cooking in wrapped foil keeps moisture in, thus allowing a lot of latitude in the finished product. So, if this intrigues you too, be careful, but have fun trying this method. I plan to try more meals on future excursions.
Although my primary interest in survival skills revolves around firecraft, I have begun to research alternate methods of cooking without using fire. A growing trend for cooking, especially in under-developed countries, is by using solar technology. Solar cooking takes time, but requires no fuel or flames. Heat is collected from the sun’s rays and enhanced by reflection, magnification, insulation, and absorption. There are many solar products being developed by humanitarian organizations and by “Preppers” in the marketplace.
However, in the spirit of survival, and by the mandate “what can you do with what you have?”, I decided to use items that I found in the trash. I used a silverized bag from a snack food and an empty soda can. The plan was to cut open the bag and form a reflective bowl, and in the center, place a dark, heat absorptive soda can in which to heat water. The day was hot and I began with room temperature water. I used a P38 can opener to create a hinged lid on top of the soda can for potential food access that was kept closed while cooking. As shown in the photos, the exterior and interior temperatures exceeded 150 degrees F. in about an hour.
I often keep packets of flavoring from Top Ramen meals to create a nice bullion soup. Another benefit of solar cooking is that you can pasteurize water to kill germs and disease-carrying organisms. Heat the water to at least 150 degrees F. (65 degrees C.) and keep it at that temperature or above for at least 30 minutes. The important thing is to keep reflectors focused while the sun changes position, and if possible, insulate the setup from wind or other cooling effects.
When I was a teen and living in the city, I longed for the outdoors. My cousin invited me to go hiking with him and his dad, his dad’s brother, and the other boys in our tribe for a week in the mountains of California. I had a backpack that I had used for weekend outings with a boys club from my church. The backpack had served more as a duffel bag than for actual travel on trails. I had packed the usual things that I had been taught, but the night before we departed, my cousin and uncle clued me in on thinking “lite” and so we fine-tuned my load.
Later that week, we camped early by a small lake. My uncle often reclined after a bite to eat while the rest of us were eager to explore our new surroundings. With a quick motion, my uncle struck his cupped hand on the ground and came up with a grasshopper. Turning to us he said “I’ll trade this for a trout”. Whereas I had been mesmerized by fancy lures and flies, this simple statement struck me with lasting impact… how a simple bait could be so effective. Even today I try different lures, but nothing beats the real deal. I have kept a long slender branch with an attached line and hook hidden by my favorite pond, knowing that when I happen by occasionally, I just need to scuffle through the brush, or roll some rotten logs to find the tender of trade to exchange for a fish.
Here’s an interesting way to heat water when no flames or conventional cooking apparatus is available. A friend of mine used to work in the maintenance department at a facility where an upstairs water leak dripped through to a lower floor light fixture. He responded to a call only to find a water-filled globe with the light-bulb still turned on. There were bubbles inside and steam coming out. I’m sure that it was an amazing sight. This story prompted me to try using a light-bulb as a heating element inside of a water-filled can.
Here’s the procedure I used: Begin by using a clamp-style shop light, and remove the aluminum reflector. Next, clean off a cool incandescent light-bulb and screw it into the socket. Clamp the light onto a base… I used a pan laying on it’s side. Place the bulb inside a clean, grease-free can (15oz. size works well), keeping the light-bulb base above the rim. Then, pour room temperature water into the can, filling it to about 1/4 inch from the top. Make sure there is no water on metal parts, then turn on the light switch. If possible, plug the light into a GFI protected receptacle for safety.
After a half hour, the water temperature reached nearly 170 degrees F. but hit a ceiling of about 180 degrees thereafter. Two things to avoid when using glass bulbs - contrasting temperatures and grease. I’m sure there is some flexibility with this setup when using different sized bulbs, cans, and time. Anyway, in an emergency situation, this is another way to create hot water which could be used in a variety of ways such as pasteurization, food and beverage preparation, and for warmth.
When you find yourself out in the woods and thirsty, there may not be water found readily at hand. If you were fortunate enough to find a clean body of water, you could lay on the ground and drink straight from the source, or, you could use your hand as a cup. But if there is no body of water, you might be able to collect water droplets from foliage by using a cloth or cup.
A cup can be fashioned from a broad leaf such as found on a deciduous tree. After a rain or from early morning dew, you can find droplets of water on leaves that can be tilted onto your mouth for drinking. But having a cup handy will prove easier for collecting and drinking these water droplets. The same may be said for drawing water out of a low place. Basically, a leaf can be pinched on one side and then folded off to the back side. This single fold creates a cone shaped reservoir that holds the water. A big enough leaf might enable additional folds to create an even lipped rim or even a handle.
Next time that you’re out and about, stop by a tree, pluck a leaf, and give it a try. But one word of caution… remember… when selecting the foliage, “leaves of three - let it be”. Make sure to use a non-toxic leaf.
Not long ago, while perusing a country store, I came across an innovative lantern known as the Dietz “Warm-It-Up” Lantern, also known as the “2000 Millennium Cooker” Lantern. It was developed around the Y2K phenomenon. Folks were concerned about eminent danger back then, and, a decade later, folks are STILL concerned about the future and are preparing for tough times ahead.
In my efforts toward preparedness, some time ago I began to assemble my BOB (Bug-Out-Bag) and learned that it was strategic to pack items that could serve more than one function in order to save weight and space. With this strategy in mind, the “warm it up” lantern gained my interest for preparedness because it provides both light AND heat. So, I began to test the lanterns’ capability.
Hurricane style lanterns are built to shield the flame inside and come with a vented cap on the top. The “warm it up” lantern has a removable cap that can be exchanged with a bracket that holds cups above it to capture the heat from the flame below. The kit comes with 2 stacking aluminum cups that include a lid… similar to a double boiler used in cooking on a stove. The lower aluminum cup holds 1 3/4 cups when used alone, and 1 1/4 cups when used in conjunction with the upper cup. The upper cup holds 1 1/4 cups.
I read the instructions provided with the kit. First, I attached the stabilizing feet (optional hold-down pins included) onto the bottom of the tank, swapped out the lantern cap with the bracket, then I filled the fuel tank with 1 pint of lantern oil. Then, I adjusted the wick to about 1/16th inch above the frame plate, lit it, and let it warm for about 5 minutes. Then, I adjusted the wick up to create a flame that stood about 3/4 inch high. It was quite bright, and probably larger than I would usually use because a smaller flame will consume less fuel. A flame adjusted too high will cause sooting on the chimney and cup. I filled the larger cup with room temperature water and placed it on the bracket with no lid. This table shows the heating results.
| TIME | TEMP | NOTES |
| 0 Min. | 78 deg. F. | The starting temp. |
| 10 Min. | 148 deg. F. | |
| 15 Min | 159 deg. F. | The golden zone for coffee. |
| 20 Min | 170 deg. F. | |
| 25 Min | 173 deg. F. | |
| 30 Min | 175 deg. F. | |
| 35 Min | 178 deg. F. | The temp topped out here. |
I burned the lamp for 2 consecutive evenings logging in 8 hours. In the interest of estimating the burn time, I removed the remaining fuel and saw that it used less than a cup of fuel. Based on the volume and time already spent, I estimate that the total burn time would be 20 hours per tank. A smaller flame could dramatically extend this time.
I am DELIGHTED with the “warm it up” lantern. Imagine having a power outage and still being able to have light in the dark and have a hot meal too! I have chosen to add this to the Survivaltek Store where you can purchase this and other survival related items.
The event was “Trail Day” at the W. Kerr Scott Reservoir where volunteers gathered this morning at 08:00 and worked until noon, cutting a new trail by following marked contours along the hillside. The reward: roasted pig, that began cooking yesterday in a huge trailer-mounted smoker. The pit master (and owner) was “BBQ Man” Chad Eller, a Park Ranger who has competed in various BBQ cook-offs. Along with him was his friend the “dominologist” (domino fanatic) and solo night crew member for the 22 hour smoke/roast event.
When I first heard about the pig roast I had visions of “pit roasting” like the IMUs in Hawaii, and, being on my “learn to do list”, I asked if I could come and help. But when Chad drove up pulling his massive trailer, I knew that he had a different approach, but one that I could learn from. After setting up a prep table, we rolled out aluminum foil and laid the split open - 100 lb. pig on it’s back. We cleaned off undesired tissue and then Chad injected his special apple juice baste, followed by a dry rub with paprika and an assortment of other spices. Meanwhile, briquettes were lit in charcoal chimney starters, being readied to start the hardwood fire. Chad described the various portions of meat and the strategy of heat control for the duration of cooking.
The end product was awesome! Finger-pulling tender and tasty. We took samples of various parts of the pig, including the tongue. Low and slow… it’s hard to beat the temperature and time combination for such a succulent result. Well, now I’m catching the BBQ fever, and look forward to a Hawaiian IMU (below ground), Samoan UMU (above ground), Cuban Roast (covered pit with fire on top) cooking adventures in the future.
It’s amazing how many ways you can use trash for constructive purposes, especially in emergency circumstances. Take for instance, a plastic soda bottle. Plastic bottles come in all shapes, sizes and colors, and now many are produced with thinner walls for less environmental impact. The point of this blog is to describe on application of use for an empty container which is to make a fish trap.
The neck of the soda bottle makes a great funnel, and the body of the bottle makes a great cage. In essence, if you reverse the neck direction to face the body, what goes in the funnel lands in the cage. So, with a knife or scissors, pierce the side of the bottle at it’s widest point below the bottle neck and cut around the circumference of the bottle, then remove the neck, turn it around and insert it into the body, and viola!, you have a fish trap. You might be tempted to fashion an interlock at the cut line, but careful placement with a supporting rock will do. And speaking of placement, you’ll want to observe the water where you will be trapping for the presence of minnows or crayfish, and where they like to travel or hang out. In a stream, you’ll want to place the trap in slow water, with the bottle bottom facing upstream. You may also want to create a rock tent around it that will both secure it and provide a shaded fish haven. And don’t forget to put in bait first. In the trap shown in the photo, I placed a small worm and caught a crayfish. In this case, the crayfish could be an appetizer, or perhaps better used as bait to catch a bigger meal. Give it a try and let me know about your results.
